I have part of instructions on my phone but when it says click here phone does nothing. its on a whirlpool refrigerator ER2CHMXPL00
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in Refrigerators
SOURCE: Side by Side Whirlpool Refrigerator: Refrigerator is freezing food
Hi, riverbyfarm
You did try what i would of recommended first!
The resetting of the system by, turning off the controls of the freezer and the fridge first and then unplugging it or if you can't reach the plug, to throw the breaker off for 5 minutes!
That is a possibility in the order that I described!!!!!
Second I ask, is the freezer packed full to the hilt with packages?
In some refrigerators if the frozen food covers the air vents in the freezer cause they are plied sky high and deep in the freezer it can cause a problem.
The freezer and fridge share the air and have to have the vents or passages free so to allow sharing of the cold air!
Let me know if the measures as I prescribed have an affect.
Waiting for your reply!
Bless You Huuum
Please do not forget to enter a rating here before you sign off.
Thank You.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Side by Side Refrigerator Wont dispense ice
if you lift out the ice bucket you will see the "gear" that turns the auger. The gear is metal but the part on the bucket is plastic and this can become stripped out. Also check that there is not ice frozen around the bottom of the bucket where an ice cube may have lodged the chute door partially open and melted some of the ice in the bottom creating a blockage.
SOURCE: Whirlpool runs, but freezer not freezing and frig not freezing
If the compressor is running but the unit is not cooling you may have lost the refrigerant. See if the condenser coils at the back or bottom are hot. If they are only warm then the refrigerant is low and can be recharged. Service tech should check for leak in coolant system.
SOURCE: Refrigerator freezer drains keeps freezing over, not plugged.
Your drain tube may
be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's
stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor.
It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little
pressure with a turkey baster will
usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make
sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be
located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
Take a bare copper wire and wrap it around a fin near the
heater and put the other end a few inches down the drain. The heat convection
may prevent it from freezing.
SOURCE: Model ER2CHMXPL00. Some of the water freeze on the
This is most likely caused because the defrost condensate drain below the evaporator is frozen over or blocked further down the drain line. You will need to remove the rear cover unplug the refrigerator and defrost the drain pan with a hair dryer until you ar able to pour water with a mixture of clorox and allow to flow to the pan below your refrigerator. I have more information on the link below. Click on the link and read the complete page and use the parts that refer to your leaking problem. If you need further assistance please feel free to let me know. Thanks, Sea breeze
Click Link Below
HOW TO FIX A LEAKING REFRIGERATOR OR FREEZER
Its defrost problem, the freezer should cool,
then freeze, then defrost cycle should start. In your case freezer is cooling,
then freezing, but its not defrosting. That's why fridge section is not
cooling.-------
Click this link below and follow the
troubleshooting:----
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html
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This will help.Thanks.Helpmech/.
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