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It already looks like it's "screwed up". ( LOL) BEFORE BEGINNING READ ALL OF THIS FIRST< PLEASE> First turn off the breaker that supplies power to the fan. Take down the whole unit up to the ceiling mounts. It looks like the wood is broken that the screw bracket used to mount the fan is on. If it is you will need to reinforce the wood and rescrew the fan mounting bracket on it. THe ball carrier from the bracket should now be secure and ready to mount the swing ball of the fan at the top of the fan unit motor. Next rewire the fan to the wires in the ceiling with the wire nuts you removed. Tighten the ball screw and push the cover plate up to the ceiling, fastening it in place with the screws provided to the ceiling plate...Done!
Sounds like base gasket at roof is loose or defective to start with. Try removing ceiling assembly enough to tighten 4 bolts that secure roof unit to inside bracket. Do not compress too much, just snug them all evenly and see if water slows or stops. If not, you will have to remove upper unit (roof) and replace gasket and re-secure but don't tighten to excessive, only compress gasket approx half of original thickness. Also make sure upper unit is aligned properly with opening of roof.
Please give more details if possible. Roof air, with mechanical controls at ceiling, or thermostat on wall? Ducted system in ceiling or blows right out of ceiling assembly? Can you get a model number off base of upper (roof) unit, it should be visible when you remove filter from ceiling?
Hate to have to ask you so many questions but something isn't adding up here. Original post said it cycles off and will not come on for hours, yet, last comment said if fan on high, compressor kicks in and out every few minutes, so I think I'm getting a little mixed up, sorry. So i need to ask a few more questions. How old is the unit roughly? Has it been working good up until this happened? Have you tried dropping the ceiling assembly down by removing the 4 bolts holding it to roof unit, and looking on the forced air side of the ceiling assembly to make sure there is no obstructions to duct work such as rubber roof material hanging down etc, that would block any flow to ducts. Do you have all, or most of your ducts open to allow cool air to distribute itself properly? If you have done all this work yourself, have you tried by-passing the thermostat and connecting wires at control box, to see if unit stays running that way? If you didn't do the work, don't guess, please.
Yes it is a sealed unit, and there are some refrigeration guys who can solder on valves and recharge, but make sure you get a quote first, as some charge as much as a new unit. That said, I'd be looking at evaporator coils/fins as well as condenser coils and fins for dirt and debris and give them a real good cleaning. I'm going to assume this is a ducted ceiling, so Make sure your getting flow through all those ducts, and check for how cool it is. Does it feel like cooler air coming out the ducts? Rule of thumb is 20 F difference between ambient and discharge should be normal. All that condensation tells me it's trying to cool but you may have a problem elsewhere, like plugged fins, or faulty ducting. If the flow coming out of ceiling ducts is not good and cool, try removing the ceiling assy and see if the discharge side is cool there, and check that the ducts in to the ceiling have no obstructions as well and are properly aligned.Let me know what you find. Make sure return air filter is clean as well and get a flashlight and look way up in the return area, at the fins for dust collected on fins etc. If you remove outside cover on roof, turn off breaker, and you can use a hose to spray down and a nylon brush to clean fins and coils at condenser. Watch for bees, or wasps when you remove that cover on the roof.
Ensure the air filter and evaporator coils are clean. If they are clean and everything is running properly, then the unit may need refrigerant. It depends on the age of your equipment and the location of the leak (price to repair) as to whether or not the unit is shot. Check your air filter and evaporator coil first. :-)
remove cover at ceiling so you can see in at fins and see if they are frosting up bad. If they are, I suspect during AC installation, they didn't open up ducts on discharge properly and air flow is restricted, which will cause freeze up, especially if low flow from discharge ducts. I'm assuming it is a ducted system. You may have to remove or drop down entire ceiling assy, to see if the ducts into ceiling have any blockage. Sometimes they don't cut rubber roof material back far enough, or misaligned ducts and cause restricted flow to ceiling vents, which will cause unit to frost up, which kicks out compressor until frost is melted, then compressor kicks back in and cooling happens again.
Did you purchase a new Ducted Ceiling Unit with the Upper Unit air conditioner? If you are replacing an older mach 3, the ducted ceiling packs are not compatible and you will need to purchase the ceiling pack as well. The ducted ceiling pack part number for the 8333 series Mach III AC is below.
1. Heat/Cool Air Distribution Box - 8330B735 2. Cool only ADB - 8330A733 3. Wall Thermostat (if needed) - 7330G3351
The upper unit itself is not ducted. They are all the same. The ducting is done with the lower unit or "Ceiling Pack" of the air conditioner. You need to see your RV is ducted, ie...vents in the ceiling that blow the are out. Usually they are round and mount into the ceiling. Another way to tell is if the unit has a wall mounted thermostat.
Dusty; Look in the 14x14 hole the ac sets on. See the openings, those are where the air flows through the ceiling. If you block those off you will not get air. The air box kit is for ducted air. If you notice it will direct air to the ceiling ducts. Thanks for using Fixya Jerry