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If your sure the unit is getting the correct power, check the ground cable, make sure it is connected to a clean surface. (remove any paint where the ground is connected.) Double check your wiring. Make sure all of your connections are good. Do not forget the fuse holder, check it too.
Check the remote lead and see if it is getting power at the amp when it won't come on that way you know if the issue is with the head unit or the amplifier.
Re-check all the connections to the speakers, The uPC monitors all the outputs and if any are taking more power than they should, the uPC shuts the amp down to protect the internal components. Don`t use tape joints alone, try to run the cable the full length without any joints. If you do have to piece the wires together, solder them and stagger the connections, in other words, make one lead shorter than the other so that if the tape does come off, the offending connection is well away from the other so they can never meet or connect to each other. Ian
Disconnect all speaker wires from the amp and disconnect the RCA cables from the amp. If it still goes into protect mode, use a multimeter to confirm that you have 12v on the B+ and remote terminals. Place the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp when measuring the voltage. If the voltage is sufficient and the amp goes into protect, it will have to be repaired. JL only accepts repairs from authorized dealers. You'll have to find one in your area or you'll have to find a repair shop willing to work on JL amps.
This is an indication that the MOSFETs are ok but the driver stages may have a problem. Get a schematic find the pre-amp stages and test the voltages levels there as compared to the schematic. I do believe that you will find the problem in the pre-driver pre-amp atages.
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