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Obviously that freezer is not achieved the required temperature. There are several reasons for that:
- Defrosting system is not working, which leads to accumulation too much ice on the evaporator that prevents heat transfer and reduces air circulation despite the fan is running.
- The problem with draining condensate after defrosting cycle which also leads to accumulation of ice.
- Leaking gas from the cooling system (reduced cooling capacity)
- Faulty compressor
Defrost drain is clogged. This accessable thru the back wall of the freezer. Also depending on your model some also have removable Bottom floors of freezer that also get ice accumulation. When the defrost drain gets clogged water from the defrost cycle has no where to go so it stays and accumulates ice till eventually it leaks into the fresh food section. Clear the drain completly and you will have no more problems.
Your defrost drain hole is clogged. Look for the drain hole in the bottom rear of the freezer section. Turn off the fridge. Heat the drain hole with a hair dryer and clear the ice. Pour a quarter cup of bleach into the hole.
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
prevent recurrence. Behind the upper
freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few
days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille
(full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic
tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the
back). Your problem is too much ice
blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades'
down the back behind the bottom drawer. When you manually
defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost
won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days. I have found that
the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect
the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom
of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with
tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the
door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is
unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off![There is a fan in this area that could start
up without warning] Check how much of
the pipe is blocked by gentle probing
with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This
measurement is important… When the pipe is
clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure
how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block
of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting
more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an
old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the
coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney'
rather than upwards. There's no point steaming
the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when
your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when
you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney'
has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this
right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no
steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the
top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time
to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes. Don't forget to
replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air
from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been
defrosting. Take a lot of
care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid
website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens. Some of these
tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting)
so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back
of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left
of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove
the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer
and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge
from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle
built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with
longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a
larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the
floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath
Sorry I don't have a solution for you, however would like to know if you found out what was wrong. I have an identical problem with my Beko fridge/freezer. It's only 14 months old and the freezer just wont freeze. I've turn it off for 24 hour and let it defrost completely (even had the panel off to make sure there was no ice left). I've turned it back on again and it still wont freeze. Everything seems ok, ie fan blowing, motor running etc. I really am beginning to regret buying Beko. thanks
The only thing you give me that would allow me to solve this issue, is based on the fact that the freezer is getting warmer, and fresh food section is staying cold. So, knowing nothing more than that, I must sadly say that you need a new refrigerator to solve this issue 100%, as it sounds like you have a failing compressor, or a slow leak in the sealed system. Both scenarios are terminal.
Thank you for contacting me at Fixya.com
Dave E. (Illeagle)