Question about Dyson Vacuums
In the inlet pipe, there is a small valve that can get jammed shut with debris this causes them to pulse start, stop, start, stop, and so on. Ensure this is floating free, not jammed shut, it works purely on gravity... The other possibility is the cyclone needs cleaning. Remove the filter and check no dirt is lodged there. Remove the top torx screws and keep them safe. Carefully remove the top check for damaged seals gaskets etc (this can cause a malfunction). Again keep safe. The cyclone can then be inspected for dirt and dust clogging holes and airways. Clean thoroughly and reassemble, make sure all components are dry if they have been washed to clean them. Hopefully, this will restore the machine to working order
Posted on Feb 10, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the beater bar does not spin freely, and the belt still seems to be in place, then you may not need a new clutch, but you may need to reset the clutch. This is done very simply by keeping the beater bar section of the vacuum flat on the floor and reclining the handle all the way to the floor so the entire vacuum lays flat. There is a mechanism in the vacuum which resets the clutch. You will probably not hear anything when the clutch resets. I sat on the phone for an hour and a half to hear this simple technique is built into the vacuum, but excluded from all instructions and website customer service information.
Posted on Oct 22, 2007
SOURCE: Overheating Dyson DC07
Many devices including this one have what's known as a thermal cut out.
It is there for obvious safety reasons and prevents the temperature in the locality of the cut out from exceeding a pre-defined value.
Some of them require you to press a reset button in order to switch the power back on and other types simply reconnect the electricity supply when the temperature returns to normal (safe) operating limits.
The Dyson DC07 has a thermal cut out located close to the motor and it is of the "self resetting" type.
If your vacuum cleaner switches off after a few minutes the most probable cause (there can be others) is the thermal cut out has operated.
The first and most important thing to do is to establish why it has operated.... If the airflow around the motor has become restricted then it will not be being sufficiently cooled and so it will have cut out correctly. However, thermal cut outs are often quite crude internally and it is not uncommon for them to start cutting out at too low a temperature. So...
Here's what to do...
(some tools may be required to complete the following so read the entire procedure before starting. Please note this is not an absolute guide if you need really foolproof step by step instructions... buy a manual! But this should help)
There are now only two areas left that I know of which may cause further blockages. One is the "whole of life filter" located under the dust bin and the other one is inside each of those seven little cones (cyclonic chambers) at the top of the dust bin (root 8 cyclone is usually written on one of them). The following will require some tools and some common sense...
**** WARNING**** The next section requires someone who is technically minded, has fiddly fingers patience and a basic understanding of typical plastic goods assembly techniques. As I am not including photo's the descriptions given can only be considered as pointers to how to do it (I'm not writing a Haynes manual here! So if you are a cak handed clot with little or no patience and a tendency to resort to ever bigger hammers - take the vacuum cleaner to an independent repair shop - explain the symptoms, tell them what you have done so far and leave it to them!!
NB. NEVER remove or bypass the cut out. this really could be very dangerous!
I hope this is of some help... Regards to all.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
I decided to take it apart and see if I could fix it because even if something inside went "SPROING" and I couldn't get it back together, it wouldn't be any worse than it was already.
FIrst, remove the dust bin part and the brushes. Then, there are four screws on the bottom gray panel which have to be removed first in order to get to the gears which hold the brushes. I did not remove the little sweeper brush on the front, but I just slide it through the hole in the gray panel.
Then in order to get out the orange section which actually holds the brushes, there are four screws which must be removed. The orange section is attached to a blue section. This entire unit comes out by sliding it toward the area where the dust bin goes, being careful not to tear the light gray rubber gasket which covers the side.
Once that section is removed, there are two screws on each side. These screws hold the orange thing to the blue thing. Once the screws are removed, lift up only the side which has the white squares into which the brushes are inserted. These are actually the back side of little gears. There is a face plate on the outside of the orange part on this end. The other end contains a bunch of wires and I was careful not to disconnect any of them.
The face plate has six screws which must all be removed. Use caution when removing the face plate. Hold it up so that all of the stuff doesn't fall out. It has a bunch of gears, little brass looking fittings and grease. Take care to only remove the gears which have the squares which hold the brushes AND do it one at a time unless you like working jigsaw puzzles. I used tweezers and a pin to clean the "gunk" consisting of hair, fuzz, etc., out of the little gears.
Reverse the process to put it back together. Hazel, my little Roomba, played me a happy little song and immediately went back to work. She seems as good as new.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
Remove the Yellow connectors on the end of the brushes and clean around the pin well. If there is too much there, the roomba thinks there is something stuck and goes into clear mode (as if there is a chord stuck).
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
1. Check the on/off button these can also be troublesome and if you've stood on the cable once or twice you could have a break in the wire and it's shorting, check by turning on and wiggle cable around where it enters machine.
2. Faulty thermocouple, it is held in a white plastic housing screwed with one T15 torx screw to the motor housing. You could replace it but I just shorted mine with some wire and it hasn't failed since and more importantly not caught fire yet!
Posted on May 28, 2009
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