I have a 1988 3cyl tractor Ford model 1520 that will only run with the fluil line open at a bleeder screw before it goes to injectors when I close bleeder it will stall in a few secs

You will have to bleed the fuel filters then open the bleed screw on the injection pump. Physically pump the arm on your fuel pump until fuel is present at the injection pump bleeder. Then snug the bleeder closed. Turn the engine over with the starter, while cracking the injector lines open at the injector fittings, one at a time until fuel is present. Once you have fuel, snug the fitting closed and it should run at this point. let the starter rest between bleeding injectors to avoid damaging the starter

Open the bleeder screws at the filter and injector pump ,work the lift pump till no air bubbles at the filter close bleeder screw, keep pumping lift pump till no air bubbles at injector pump close bleeder screw . engine should now start.

To bleed a John Deere 2240, find the bleeder port on the injector port. Crack open the bleeder port while you're pumping the handle on the fuel pump or cranking the engine. Keep pumping until you get a steady stream with no air. Be sure to keep pumping while you're closing the bleeder port screw. If you can't get it to run right after bleeding the pump, you may have to bleed the injectors. Just crack the nut loose on the injector and start pumping. Keep on bleeding until all the air is out.


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FGTech Galletto 2-Master EOBD2

If you have tried EVERYTHING, then you should have found the solution by now!.....Just messin' with ya :)

On a more serious note: What you need to do is a RADICAL brake bleeding procedure. You have air trapped in your brake system - most likely in the anti-lock hydraulic control unit if your vehicle is equipped with one.
Here's what to do: Take the top off of your brake master cylinder and make sure is is full to the top with brake fluid. Then go to the RIGHT FRONT wheel and open the bleeder screw on the caliper. Slowly pump the brake about ten times WITHOUT closing the bleeder screw. I know, this goes against the general instructions for brake bleeding which tells you to push the pedal down then open the bleeder screw and hold the pedal to the floor until the bleeder is closed - you will just have to trust me on this one...

Anyway, once the pedal has been pumped about ten times, check the right brake caliper and see if there is a steady flow of fluid running from the bleeder. If not, pump it a few more times. If there IS a steady flow running out, close the bleeder, top off the fluid level in the master cylinder and move to the other side and repeat the process. Once you have the brakes bleeding on their own really good (gravity bleeding - steady flow) THEN close the bleeder screws and give the bleeders a round or two by the conventional method (have a helper to push down and hold the brake pedal while you open, then close the bleeder).

If the pedal is still feeling a little spongy, you may have to also bleed the rear brakes in the same manner, starting with the RIGHT REAR. (Always start with the brake that is the farthest from the master cylinder.)

This should take care of the problem. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Is the master cylinder good? a bad master can cause this also did you bleed the master first before bleeding at the wheel and also make sure the bleeder screw is clean, if the hose is good then theres only a few things, a bad master or a master that wasnt bleed, try bleeding the master first then try rebleeding the brakes.

you need a new master cyclinder..you needed to open the brake line before you forced the caliper back in ,,,otherwise you force the fliud the wrong way though the master cylinder and ruin the internals

Sean if you idled it back on a mechanically governed engine you have shut the fuel off to the injectors... turn it back up slowly and possibly crack the bleeders on the injectors to make sure you haven't sucked any air,good luck!

OK, there are little nipples or bleeder screws that when not rusty and new can be turned with a small wrench or socket.

The problem is that when they get old and rusty, they can shear off or round off the hexagonal sides and corners of the bleeder screw.

Therefore, you sometimes need some oxy acetylene torch heat pinpointed on the bleeder screw to let air and brake fluid out of each wheel's bleeder screw (through the hole in the center).

If you only add brake fluid, then air bubbles can still exist in the sensitive brake lines, causing a spongy pedal and endangering anyone who drives it.

One wants a hard pedal that pumps up in a couple of tries, not a spongy pedal that goes to the floor board, which doesn't generate much braking force.

FIrst, pump up the brakes to maximum pressure by pumping the brake pedal up and down.

Then, on the down cycle (a friend or assistant can do this), open the bleeder screw counter clockwise until fluid comes out. Don't allow any in your eyes. Then tighten the bleeder screw and ask the assistant to pump up the brakes again, and then repeat the cycle on the 4 different wheels, until it has a 'hard' pedal and not 'soft.'


I wish you luck on bleeding your brakes.

You will need to buy a few bottles of brake fluid to accomplish this:Try bleeding all the air out of the brake lines starting from the farthest wheel from the resevoir. This can be done alone but is easier with two people. You will need a 10mm or 3/8"(varies depending on Model) wrench to loosen the bleeder screws on one wheel at a time. The bleeder screw looks like a babies bottle nipple only steel with a hex on the lower portion. They are sometimes tight and awkward to loosen. If you can , pre loosen the bleeders before you begin.(make sure that they can be easily opened and shut, and keep closed until you are at that particular wheel) When you begin pump the pedal about 5 -8 times to build up pressure and hold. Now the person at the bleeder can open up the screw until a steady stream of brake fluid comes out with no air. When the pedal goes to the floor close the bleeder(without lifting foot of brake pedal) and try process again if there is still air in oil. If you lift your foot off the brake pedal when bleeder is open, this will draw air into the brakes causing more air to enter. If you are by yourself simply use a small container with clean fluid in it and put a small hose from the bleeder into the container with fluid in it.( I used a half full brake fluid bottle and a small rubber hose) Make sure that the hose is immersed in the brake fluid. Open the bleeder and push the pedal slowly down and up a few times to expel the air. You dont need to worry about air getting in unless the hose is not in the oil. You can buy a one man bleeder kit from Princess Auto or any other automotive dealer(Canadian Tire)to do it yourself. Hope that this helps you out.

Most probably air entered your fuel line going to the injector pump that is why the engine cranks but does not fire. You have to "bleed" the line. I'm not very familiar with F450 diesels but it's easy to locate the bleeder on the injector - it's a screw near the throttle. Loosen up the bleeder screw, crank the engine, if there's air in the line, bubbles will come out of the screw thread. Crank engine until only fuel comes out of the bleeder screw. When the engine is running already, tighten the bleeder screw.