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I am working on a carrier package roof top unit about a 5 ton. My head pressure is a little low and my suction is double what it should be. I cannot valve off the unit to try a pump down to check txv. How can i test the txv to see if it is that or the valves going bad?

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You could always disconnect the sensing bulb and warm it up see if the pressures change or i would squirt some refrigerant in and get your head pressure where it should be and see what happens with the low side hope this will help?

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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check if that will help you.

Posted on Jun 05, 2016

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1 Answer

I got a 5 ton Carrier with a ADP coil and txv and can't get the pressure to go up on the suction line


is there pressure in the high side? equalize the high/low sides pressure thru the use of gages and start the compressor and take note. The condensor valves should be opened to the evaporator, both high and lowsides

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I hope that you are using DUAL MANIFOLD guages to check this. I am not sure what you mean by drops out.

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Unit is freezing up


what type of gas?
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I have a carrier roof top unit that goes off on short cycles. how should i trouble shoot


It could be Low on Freon and going OFF on low pressure switch.......
Or it could be a dirty condensor coil or a Condensor Fan Motor not running and going OFF on High pressure switch....

Or if you are running the RTU in Low Ambient Conditions like 50* to 60* degrees Outside the Condensor Fan Motors could be cycling on a Fan Cycling Control....which is normal operation

So it could be any one of these or something different I would need to know what you are talking
about what is cycling??? Fan, Compressor , blower motor, whole unit shuting down, etc.

May 14, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I am working on a M # GPG13420901AB. This is a 3.5 ton package unit that replaced a 3 ton package unit on 1700sq/ft single level home. Old unit was working fine but was replaced when the home was...


It sounds like you are low on charge. I think you have a thermostatic expansion valve and you need to check the subcooling, you should have 12 to 15 degrees at 95. At 95 degrees your head should be about 280# for a 12 or 13 SEER unit or higher depending on the effeciency. At 78 to 80 degrees indoor depending on the humidity, that is normal. The valve will open to try to fully feed your indoor coil and it sounds like your head pressure is to low to force enough refrigerant thru the coil.

Aug 16, 2010 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

UNIT IS ONLY 4 YEARS OLD AND IS ON ITS SECOND COMPRESSOR SUCTION PRESSURE SLOW ABOUT GOING DOWN AND DISCHARGE PRESSURE GOES TO 210 THEN WILL DROP TO 200 .UNIT HAS 10 DEGREES SUBCOOLING BUT SUPERHEAT IS...


Hi, sounds as though for this to be its 2nd compressor for such a newer unit, the superheat was not right when the compressor was installed. I don't know what freon you are using the new R-410A or the regular R-22. There's a big difference in pressure, but now I see your pressure reading and its R-22 for these readings.For a 2 ton unit, you would use the superheat charging method for a unit that doesn't use a thermostatic expansion valve ( T X V ) and not the sub-cooling. A 23 degree super heat at that outdoor ambient temperature is way to high for that unit, you will loose the compressor again!!. Super heat killed the compressor is the saying and that's a fact. Suction pressure should pull down just as quick as the head pressure unless the valves are going and weak, or you have a scroll compressor that has a valve plate that is going, or you are low on charge. With a ambient of 95*, you should be at around 270p.s.i. on your head pressure as 210 to 200 is way low. Suction line temp should be around 68 to 70, with a suction line temperature of 50 to 51 degrees, which would give you a 10 to 12 degree F super heat. I don't know when the second compressor was installed, but it has to be low on charge to be such a low head, and high super heat and you will loose this compressor again, its only a matter of time before you have a burnout. It was either under charged when installed, or has a very small leak at one of the joints. I hope the liquid line drier was replaced also. It shows me you have some knowledge on a/c operation, so you need to get that superheat down to between 8 and 10 degrees for this unit to cool properly, and leak check it also. Did you buy a extended compressor warranty? Lets get the head pressure up and superheat down and you should be OK unless the valves or valve plate is weak. Once you loose the valves, you will have a lower than normal head pressure and a high suction pressure. Compressor just won't pull down anymore. I hope I have been of help to you and ask of you to be kind when rating me. I will be here for you if and when you need me for anything.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C & Heating Contractor

Jul 02, 2010 | Weather King 10AJA6001AH Air Conditioner

3 Answers

Compressor will not start.


Usually short cycling means that High side pressure is getting to high (due to not working condenser fan, or dirty condenser coil), or low side pressure is getting too low (might have low level of freon or restriction in sealed system). low side would drop dramatically if indoor blower is not running, so if air is not circulating thru evaporator coil, coil will freeze up and low side would be much lower then normal. Here is video how I found issue with package AC not coming on. Thermostat call for cool, but condenser would not come on, indoor blower runs ok.

Nov 02, 2008 | Ruud UAMB Air Conditioner

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