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Spin cycle will not work - Washing Machines

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  • servinghimto Jul 30, 2009

    top loader

  • servinghimto Jul 30, 2009

    top loader

  • servinghimto Jul 30, 2009

    the washer agitates but does not spin--has a code flashing "ol"

  • servinghimto Jul 30, 2009

    kenmore electric 90series
    110.26952691

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 11, 2010

    Is this a top loader of front loader??

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.

If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)

Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 30, 2009

    Ok, whats the brand name and model number??

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 30, 2009

    The OL represent a open lid. this is a lid switch issue. follow my instruction on testing this switch in the above top paragraph. you will need a multimeter to test properly. it could also be misaligned, depending on you model. Just follow my instructions above and, it will fix this issue.

    Just read the lid switch information, the rest doesn't concern this issue.

    (OL)--open lid.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 30, 2009

    I need to correct my diagnosis. this is a Over load code and not a Open lid. So sorry for the confusion. Your unit will not spin if the load is overloaded. this is a protect mode that is installed to protect you motor. try removing some clothes to lighten the load on the motor. if it continues to show the OL code, this will confirm an issue concerning the motor controller., It must be replaced in this case.

    Again, sorry for th confusion.


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