Question about Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat

1. 220 v present @ connector on back of dryer.
2. Heating element is good (continiuity test)
3. Thermal Cutoff on side of heating element cover tests good (continuity)
4. High Limit Thermostat also good on continuity
5. Thermistor tested too high on resistance (240), replaced, new part tests good on resistance (about 11)
6. What have I overlooked? Another fuse?

Thanks!

Mike

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  • Whirlpool Master
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Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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Why won't my inglis dryer heat up


if electric? check ur thermal shut off and thermistor with a multimeter. does it run at all? if it does it wont be thermal shut off but may be ur heating element? is it gas or electric? Gas? 1. may need to check ur coils which regulate the flow of gas, ? 2. CHECK Igniter which ignites the flame, or 3. CHECK THE glow bar. there are also thermostats on the heating eleemt you will want to check with a multimeter. the thermal cutoff, the hi-lo thermostat and the element itself.

Aug 16, 2014 | Whirlpool Inglis IP8200 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is running, but heat will not turn on


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back.

Jul 27, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

LG electric dryer is not heating. Electric coils test for continuity. Any suggestions?


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating. UNPLUG DRYER BEFORE TESTING ANYTHING.
1- power- Test the receptical to make sure you are getting 220 volts. To do this you need and voltage tester. Both legs should pull 110 and together 220. If one leg is not pulling any power than your breaker is half tripped. Reset breaker to cure your problem. If problem persist it is in the breaker or receptical.
2- cord- To test this unplug dryer. Take the panel covering the cord connections off. Remove cord entirely from dryer. Test each leg for continuity. If any are not showing cont than replace cord.
3- Themal fuse- To test this remove access back access panel on some front panel. By the blower housing there is a fuse white thin sliver or round fuse with 2 wires going to it. The one with 4 wires is your low limit cycling thermistat. The thermal fuse is near that. Disconnect the 2 wires and check fuse for continuity. If meter shows cont fuse it good. If not replace fuse.
4- Hi Limit Thermistat- test same way as thermal fuse. On the heating element housing at the bottom are 3 wires running to a fuse. Test the left and right. The bottom is attached to one of the sides.
5- Thermal Cutoff- Test same way as thermal fuse. This fuse is near the top of the heating elemnt above the Hi Limit. 2 wires with usually plastic covers on them.
6- Heating Element- Below high limit 2 wires. Test for continuity.
If all these fuses are good than you may need to call a technician. The motor may not be getting to the right rpm to activate the senfrigrial switch in the moter. Timer or control board may be out.
7- Motor- If

Jul 16, 2011 | LG DLE2514 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer tumbles, no heat, thermo fuse has been changed. Can it be the cycling thermostat or the heating element?


If you have changed the thermal fuse you may have a defective thermal cutoff (located at the top of the heater housing in the back). The thermal cutoff will come with the high limit thermostat located at the bottom of the heater and you should change both parts if the thermal cutoff is bad.
You can take both of the parts (the heater and the thermal cutoff) to a parts supplier to have them checked for continuity (they should both read "closed" if they are good).
Good luck to you!

Oct 07, 2010 | Whirlpool WED5300S Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs but no heat. cleaned lint out of back of dryer and vent. looks new and still no heat for whirlpool duet electonic electric dryer


Ohm the heating element for continuity but the problem probably
is a small football looking fuse on the left bottom.
There is a thermal cutoff at the top of the element case with 2 wires
Hook these two wires together for a check or ohm it for continuity. Same with the fuse. The dryer should run. unless it is a more tech problem.Also check for 230 volt at the wall and at the service cord at the dryer. A dryer will run on 115 but it will not heat.
for more questions.
Leo Ponder
imufo2@sbcglobal.net

Aug 01, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Hi, I have a probLem! No doubt you hear that frequently!! First, you need to know I'm 60, and not a mechanical or electrical bone in my body. I found this site as I was looking for a heating element for...


The two red wires on the dryer probably connect to the short red/wht wire at the end with the extra connector. The other end of the red/wht wire would then connect to the blk/wht wire with small brass connector. This arrangement should place the thermal cutout in series with the high limit (ie, one after the other). Suggest you post pictures if this doesn't sound right.

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Whirlpool GEW9200L not heating up, i have replaced th thermal fuse, thermistor, heating element, thermal cutoff and high limit. What next.


not being sarcastic, but, your sure you have 240 volts present at the unit? then check door switch heat section control of switch may be bad

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3 Answers

No heat


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Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat


it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

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