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Voltage regulator ua723 hookup. pins have 21 volts except 2 and 8 and pin 9 shows 14 volts. high current power supply with four 2n3772 power transistors.transformer bridge rectafier, 15,000uf cap, etc. with 2 ameters.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

dodgecharger
  • 254 Answers

SOURCE: POWER SUPPLY UNIT

A voltmeter would be helpful here. If the proper voltage is being supplied to your computer power supply, then the computer power supply itself is defective. You could use the voltmeter to verify this, or just merely bypass the regulator- plug the computer directly into wall current, assuming here your wall current isn't terribly out of tolerance, or terribly dirty - spikes, sags etc.

I have seen several computer power supplies which are slow to come on. The problem is often electrolytic capacitors in the power supply circuitry - probably in the standby +5 volt supply (this powers a tiny part of the circuitry on the motherboard). The voltmeter could be used to check this out also.

If this is the problem, it will likely get worse, to the point where it won't power up at all. Whether you want to replace the capacitors, or just swap out the p.s. is up to you. If the p.s. is a high quality unit, repairs might be suggestable, especially if you have some technical skills.

Posted on Nov 07, 2007

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: 46" RCA, CTC169PA, pulsating power supply.

HV Splitter!

Posted on Feb 19, 2008

  • 4234 Answers

SOURCE: Model CF1926A TV with insufficient

I think you missed one cap. Look for another 1ufd cap close to the jungle chip. It will have the circuit designation in the 300's like the others in the vertical circuit. It is just not located close by. I think that one will fix it.I don't have the service data with me so I can't give you the exact designation.
Dan

Posted on Jun 04, 2008

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: Mag Innovison LT917S LCD Monitor

After looking at the description of the pin outs on the BIT3193 and following signals to/from that chip I discovered I had burned up one of the FETS that I had installed. With the FETS replaced for the second time the monitor works fine now. HEY!!

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

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The fuel pump relay has four pins. Two pins relate to low power switch circuit from the ECU and the other pins relate to the high current switched circuit which has a permanent power in and switched power out (to fuel pump). Check that the ground on the lower switch circuit pins is good and then check that when the ignition key is in the 'on' position that the low power switch pin has 12.6ish volts supplied to it. If there is no low power switching supply then the relay cannot function. If there is low power supply but no voltage switch on the output then the issue sounds like the relay itself. Pull the relay out and check that it clicks when 12v is dropped across the low circuit pins. Check the resistance across the high current output circuit pins when the low pins are given 12 volts. As 12 volts is applied across the low voltage pins the resistance across the high current output pins should drop to near zero as the internal contacts are closed. As the low side voltage is removed the high side pin resistance should once again register open circuit (infinite resistance). If the relay clicks but fails to output then either replace the relay or open it up and get a nail file and draw it between the contact pins to remove any corrosion.

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IR Compressor sl.No N37 - 75KW NIRVANA -TEO179V05257 (oil free screw compressor). Machine trips with VSD 8 fault. Hall effect sensor is new one and is connected as per the correct sequence. Are there...


Yes, the control board may be bad . Ihave attached a procedure for checking the hall effect sensors, some of which you will not have the special tool needed to preform all the tests. However it will allow you to check the control board which may be bad causing your problem.

VSD FAULT DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
10 Revision 001 - March, 2002
Appendix 4 - Hall Effect Sensor Checks (Four Part)
1. Isolate the compressor from the main incoming voltage supply. Lock and tag the
isolation switch in the open position.
2. Allow 15 minutes for the VSD to discharge capacitors.
3. Open enclosure doors to expose the VSD.
4. Check with a suitable meter that all voltages have dissipated before beginning work on
the VSD.
5. Remove rear cover of drive motor to permit rotating by hand.
TEST 1
6. Disconnect Hall Effect Cable from P4 on the Control Board, plug type is DB9 Type.
7. Inspect cable pins and matching receptacle connections for damage or bent pins.
Remove cover of plug and inspect solder connection of the wires for damage.
9. Inspect entire length of the cable for damage. If cable and connections are in good condition,
proceed to Test 2.
TEST 2
9. Confirm supply voltage to the Hall Effect Sensor is present using a digital multi-meter.
10. Disconnect terminal strips P1, P2 & P3 from the bottom of Control Board.
11. Trip and switch off MCB2 and MCB5 to prevent the SGN Intellisys from powering up.
12. Re-connect main incoming supply voltage to the unit. Isolation contactor KM1 should remain
de-energized and the VSD should only receive control power. Caution must be taken as the
panel has voltage present.
13. Set digital multi-meter to DC Volts.
14. Connect Black probe of multi-meter to either of the 2 pins of P16.
Note: P16 is located on the Control Board, slightly less than half way down and towards the left side.
P16 is marked and described as 2 small bare pins. P16 is the ground connection for the Control
Board.
15. Locate the small transistor just above Pin 3 on terminal strip P1. The transistor has 3 pins on
the left side. The pins are numbered 1 at the top, 2 in the middle and 3 at the bottom.
16. Connect Red probe of multi-meter to Pin 3. The voltage should be between +11 and +14 Volts
DC.
17. If voltage is not present, replace the Control Board.
VSD FAULT DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
11 Revision 001 - March, 2002
TEST 3
17. Connect special adapter XXXXXXXX between P4 on the Control Board and the Hall
Effect Sensor Cable.
19. Set digital multi-meter to DC Volts.
20. Connect Black probe of multi-meter to either of the 2 pins on P16.
21. Connect Red probe of multi-meter to Red wire of the adapter. Rotate motor by hand and
observe measurement. The meter should read between +10 and +12 Volts DC.
22. Repeat the test with the Black wire of the adapter. The meter should read between +10 and +12
Volts DC.
23. Repeat the test with the Yellow wire of the adapter. The meter should read between +10 and +12
Volts DC.
24. If voltage does not rise to between +10 and +12 Volts DC for any of the 3 sensors, replace the
Hall Effect Sensor Assembly.
TEST 4
25. Set digital multi-meter to Ohms.
25. Connect multi-meter between Purple and Green wires of special adapter XXXXXXXX. The meter
should show a resistance value of approximately 150 Ohms ± 20% (New Hall Effect Sensors)* at
70° F (20° C) ambient temperature.
27. If correct value is not confirmed, replace the Hall Effect Sensor Assembly.
Note: Two temperature ranges (130° C and 150° C) of Hall Effect Sensor have been used. Typically,
the 50/60hp (37/45kW) units use a 130° C sensor and the 75/100hp (55/75kW) units use a 150°C
sensor. All sensors have a small band near the sensor end of the cable.
The 130° C sensor has four digits such as 6622 on the band. The 150° C sensor could have either a
four digit number with a star on each side (*6752*) or a four digit number followed by a star and the
letter E (6752*E) or a four digit number followed by an E (7652E).
Appendix 5 - Megger Main Motor Windings
1

Sep 17, 2011 | Ingersoll Rand Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

I am trying to troubleshoot whether or not my ultra x2 connect 550 watt power supply is bad. When you press the power button on the computer, the light flashes and then noth9ing else happens. The light...


Well here is a way to check your power supply, on your hard drive connector using your volt meter and measuring from ground. this would be using one of two middle connectors it should measure +5 VDC on the red wire and + 12 VDC on the yellow wire. If these voltages are good then we got to see if the power supply is producing the -12VDC voltage. This voltage is ussed by the syustemboard on pin 14 of a 24 pin power supply. I would recommend not having your system board plugged in while measuring these votlages, but the power supply may need a load, I would plug in the cdrom.. Below are a couple of picture to explain this and a link to a website that has this documented.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

dfish26_1.jpg The 24 pin main power connector was added in ATX12V 2.0 to provide extra power needed by PCI Express slots. The older 20 pin main power cable only has one 12 volt line. The new 24 pin connector added one line apiece for ground, 3.3, 5, and 12 volts. The extra pins made the auxiliary power cable unnecessary so most ATX12V 2.x power supplies don't have them. The 24 pin connector is polarized so it can only be plugged in pointing in the correct direction.
Pinout Pins 1 through 12 Pins 13 through 24 Description Wire color Pin number Pin number Wire color Description +3.3 volts orange 1 13 orange +3.3 volts +3.3 volts orange 2 14 blue -12 volts ground black 3 15 black ground +5 volts red 4 16 green PS_ON# ground black 5 17 black ground +5 volts red 6 18 black ground ground black 7 19 black ground PWR_OK gray 8 20 white -5 volts (optional) VSB +5 volts purple 9 21 red +5 volts +12 volts yellow 10 22 red +5 volts +12 volts yellow 11 23 red +5 volts +3.3 volts orange 12 24 black ground
Good Luck I hope this helps.

Nov 19, 2010 | PSA Ultra X2 Connect (ULT31851) 550-Watt...

1 Answer

99 Roadking EFI, engine light came on, lights dimmed, speedodometer stuck at seventy. R&R battery worked fine for a short ride, now same result. Ohm'd coil, 4 ohms. pins to ground is high ohms Running...


Hi Mitch_steven, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

May 01, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King...

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I have 8 outputs on my Furman SPB-8 power supply for 9 volt guitar pedals. I moved the power supply to a bigger pedal board, drilled a few holes to anchor it it to the board. Now none of the 9 volt outlets...


How are you at soldering? Do you have a voltmeter? Is there a fuse in the unit? Did you make sure no metal chips from drilling shorted anything out? The donut shaped part could be a transformer, or it could part of a filter. To get DC for the pedals, there are usually these components: a transformer (to decrease the line voltage), a rectifier bridge (turns AC to DC), a filter capacitor (to get rid of AC ripple from the rectified AC) and a voltage regulator (futher reduces ripple to eliminate hum). The filter capacitor is usually the most likely component to fail. The manual states that the maximum current draw for any pedal is 100mA. It also states that their is an 'electronic fuse, called a PTC (probably a positive temperature coefficient device. From what I've found, it uses 7809 regulator, which is one of the key components. I found a page about building an effects regulator. In the picture, the regulator is the little black square device towards the right. There is a metal tab, that should really be mounted to a heat sink. I'm including a link to the page for designing this supply. They're pretty simple, and I can find you the parts pretty cheap, if you you want to try building one. Another possibility is to find a prebuilt supply that would fit inside your case. You can get a schematic from furman if you have the serial number. In the picture the big 'can' is one of the devices I'd suspect. See if it's bulging on the end. Anywa, here's the likely culprits: the biggest capacitor (big can, voltage regulator, ptc. The ptc is probably square or rectangular, and rather small, probably about the size of the regulator, but thinner, and maybe tan or yellow, but could be some other color. Before you try any repair, if you have a voltmeter see what happens with no pedals. Then if you can read 9 volts, try the pedal with the lowest draw. The current draw will be listed on the pedal near the power supply plug. If that doesn't work, Check the voltage on the ouput pin of the regulator. It should be on the right, viewed from the front. I'm including a link to a page with a 7809 that shows the pins. There are several different versionsa I think, with different current ratings. Anything over 1 amp should have the metal tab mounted to a heat sink. The fixya format is not so conducive to solving this. You can go to ecurrencyparadise.com, and click the email me link to contact me. I'm a BSEET who has been playing with this stuff for years. There's plenty of ways to get this working, probably even better than the way they designed it.
http://www.furmanpower.com/sites/furmanpower.com/files/_/Furman-Pro-AV/spb-8_manual.pdf https://hotbottles.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/2013-12-04-21-22-59.jpg real effects pedal power supply 7809 9V Voltage Regulator

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1 Answer

Model CF1926A TV with insufficient vertical height. I replaced c308, c305, c301, c315. voltage was missing from ic501, pin 29; restored with replacement of c301. no help to vertical. voltage was missing...


I think you missed one cap. Look for another 1ufd cap close to the jungle chip. It will have the circuit designation in the 300's like the others in the vertical circuit. It is just not located close by. I think that one will fix it.I don't have the service data with me so I can't give you the exact designation.
Dan

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1 Answer

DESKTOP COMPUTER TURN ON PROBLEM


In this case it is normally a voltage regulator near the cpu that is shorted and will need to be replaced.
Remove everything from the board, except the heat sink fan and plug in the big power connector, do not connect the 4 pin connector. Turn the power on as you were before.
Using a multimeter, check the voltages on those regulators. You should find them running in pairs normally, but make sure to check all of them and try to pick the odd one out.
Put your black lead to ground, and use some electrical tape to cover all of the red leads probe except for 2mm at the tip to help prevent shorting out anything else while you are there.

Apr 08, 2008 | Intel Motherboard

1 Answer

TV problem


Over Current Protection
Pin 1 of IC951 is also the Over Current Protect input.
The internal FET.s ground return is at pin 2 of
the IC. The voltage drop across R955 and R956
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R953 to pin 1 of the IC. The Over Current Protect
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Stabilization and rough regulation are provided by
feedback from pin 3 of T951 to pin 1 of the IC. Fine
regulation feedback is from a secondary supply,
through the Photo Coupler, PC951, to pin 1 of IC951.
Its possible that Diode D953 is leaky allowing the voltage to rise on pin 1 of the IC

Feb 23, 2008 | Mitsubishi VS-50605 50" Rear Projection...

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