Fan doesnt stop in Amana side by side refrig.

Model #SCD22TBW
Mfg. #P1303511WW
Trying to find replacement gaskets (freezer

Hi,
I don't think vacumming the coils will help at this point... you have bigger problems then that...
Here are a couple of tips that will give you some things to check out...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

check out the conector look for loose connections

On some Amana refrigs , the defrost thermostat has to close before the fan will come on . The coils will get cold and since the bimetal clips onto the coils , it will get cold as they do . When cold enough , bimetal closes and the fan will come on . Are the coils getting cold ? If so , then the compressor is working . You could also have a bad fan motor instead of bimetal . Recheck to see if you hear the fan in freezer now .

Really need to know what motor(s) are running (compressor, evap fan inside freezer compartment, condenser fan under fridge)?? Of course, check your temperature (thermostat) settings. Side-by-sides usually have 2 of them. They should be labled for refridgerator and freezer. The freezer control usually only opens a baffle from the freezer compartment to the refridge compartment. The refrigerator temp control is the one that controls the compressor on-off cycles and the temp of refrig compartment (this keeps the refrig compartment from freezing the milk and cokes) If the freezer control/baffle is set too far open, this will cause the refrig temp control to shut off too soon for the freezer temp to get low enough. These controls can get bumped out of the correct setting accidently from time to time.
To check the following, the fridge has to be running, or in a condition where it "should be" running: If compressor is running (condenser fan should be too), check if evaporator fan (inside freezer) is running. Open (freezer) door and hold door light switch in when you check evaporator fan operation (some fans stop when door is open) If it is not running you may have a bad evaporator fan motor. It could also be a bad defrost timer, causing the evaporator (also inside back of freezer) to ice-up. This blocks the air flow over evap. Also, there is a defrost terminator switch on the evaporator coil that stops the defrost cycle when coil is clear of ice/frost (but timer hasn't ended defrost cycle). If it is defective, that could also keep the fridge from going into the defrost cycle, or taking it out too soon. If it is the timer, change the defrost terminator as well. Depending on how handy you are, you may be able to check/change any of these parts yourself. If you don't know much about elecrical stuff, you should leave it to a repair tech. Hope this helps.

1 the defrost timer should cut off every 6 8 or 12 hours (unless its electronic or wired to accuminilate time). If the defrost timer is direct and alwaqys has the timer motor advancing every 6,8 or 12 hours it has to cut off. 2 I have had what I believed to be a clear defrost problem because the evaporator coil is froze up. However I find after a reoccouriung problem like you discribe that (maybe in addition to the timer) the suction pressure is low and the compressor is running all the time. Thus the sysytem is low on charge. 3 The frost pattern will be the most tell tell sign of your problem. A slightly clear evaporator on a few passes could indicate the need to check the sealed system and charge.A mostly blocked evaporator with little space for the air to be drawn through indicates agaIN THE defrost is not working or the defrost thermostat is cuting out before the heat has time to complete the defrost. A fan inside that is running and a freezer getting cold but the refrig isnt is mostly a damper or air flow from fan problem.

very likely that either the defrost timer is not working or the defrost heater is not working.

If your refrigerator temperature is closer to 35 degrees, try turning the temperature up slightly.

If you find that the temperature varies a lot from the top shelf to the bottom (where it is coldest), try putting produce and other sensitive products on a higher shelf.

If the temperature is too low and you can't make it warmer by adjusting the thermostat, you probably have a defective thermostat. If so, you need to replace it, because they cannot be repaired. Other possible problems are a leak in the sealed (refrigerant) system, cold air migration (in side-by-side models) or a defective air damper. These problems can be quite difficult to locate and correct, we recommend you contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

The refrig side does not have a fan. only the freezer. Is that fan working??? you will hear it when the unit is running (and not in defrost) The clicking you hear is the Damper (a motorized door allowing more or less air to the refrig) opening or closing. Is there frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer??

Do you know if the compressor in the back is running? If you can check that out get back to me and we can go from there. Most times if the fan in the freezer is running the defrost timer is ok.