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Freezer will not pull down. sometimes does for a day or so then starts to warm up. lots of ice on cap tube. had a compressor burn out 2 years ago and replaced,{copland} when i change dryer and refrigerant, will sometime work for a couple months then start to warm up , this time only 2 days, 10 degrees is about it for temp.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Can not get temp. below +10 f

what is your superheat and is defrost cycle working

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

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Is my defrost timer broken or my thermostat? The freezer was holding -30 temp but now is at +30.


Is the compressor running? If not - the timer could be stuck in defrost mode. If it is ruinning, then the freezer coil should be cold. If it is choked with frost & ice - then the defrost heater isn't getting powered (bad timer or defrost terminator - or is getting powered but has burned out.

You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

May 18, 2015 | Arctic Air 22 cu. ft. Commercial Freezer...

1 Answer

Continental Freezer model F2 404A refrigerant not cooling properly. Replaced cap tube, and filter drier, evacuated, and charged. Box temp not going below 32' and ice forming at beginning of evaporator....


Check the compressor efficiency. See if it will pump down. In most cases, a good compressor will pull down to about 15" vacuum. Also, be sure that the refrigerant amount was weighed in and not done by pressures only.

May 18, 2017 | Continental Freezer Wide...

1 Answer

Fridgidaire freezer warming up


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

Sep 09, 2013 | Freezers

1 Answer

True Freezer T23 compressor will not stop running


Have him check the t'stat. And freon lines. I believe the t'stat is the problem. Are the door gaskets ok and does it seal properly when closed. The fan should always run, so this could be in the rewiring. I am assuming you will be working out of a freezer where the working temp is a little higher.

Feb 16, 2013 | True T23F Freezer

1 Answer

I replaced compressor for a hussman refrig and its hums loud


God day,
Some thoughts.
1. Are the evap fan motors running, and at full speed. That would give you abnormally low suction pressure.
2. Cap tube sized too small. or partial restriction in the dryer cap tube/dryer when brazing in the lines.
3. Low ambient. What's the temp the machine is running in.
4. Over sized compressor.
5. Moisture. God, 134A is touchy on that one.
6. Was original cap tube soldered to the suction line to create a heat exchanger. Needed on many apps. Definately would cause flash back on start up.
7. Superheat a little low, should be 12 to 15 degrees.

Jan 31, 2010 | Hussmann Freezer Gelato Pan Rack (For 12...

1 Answer

Errattic temperatures in Freezer


Check out "victory-refrig.com" for manuals, diagrams, etc.
Cap tube systems are "critical charge systems". Can be difficult to get right. You did not mention pressures that you had. The split on the evap vs.box temp is almost always 10 degrees for freezers. If you want a -10 box, your evap needs to be -20. As a general rule of thumb, you want the high side to be "ambient +30". This seems to work most every time. Your problem might be operations related. Them leaving the door open alot and so on. It could also be a problem with the evap fan or the control to it. It could also be that since there had been a problem with the unit, they are now constantly checking it. Could be checking during a defrost cycle. When your box is at 0 degrees, your pressure should be about a -10 and no less that a -15 degree for the evap. You may have to babysit this thing and see how far it will pull down. You may have a weak compressor. Also, I have had many Hobart freezers fail due to dirty condensers. This causes the oil in cap tube systems to gel and clog up the cap tubes. The only fix is replacing the cap tube. There are alot of variables here so be patient, it's not going to be a quick fix. One last thing, since R404A can fractionate, you really need to pull the charge out and weigh in the correct charge with virgin refrigerant. This will eliminate 2 things. 1, it will ensure the correct amount of refrigerant and, 2 no chance of having a poor mixture of refrigerant in the system causing inconsistant readings and performance.
Hope this helps. And remember, cap tube systems are performance measured by the amount of superheat just prior to the unit making temp and cutting off.

Jan 07, 2009 | Victory Commercial Freezer VSF-3

1 Answer

Freezer not getting cold enough


I think your system has a leak and has lost the refrigerant charge.
The only way to check is by accessing the sealed system. Most systems are covered for five years on the compressor. Contact the place of purchase and give them your indications for your problem.

Jul 06, 2008 | Freezers

4 Answers

GIBSON DEEP FREEZE IS RUNNING BUT EVERYTHING IS THAWING OUT


Might try unplugging for a few hours and then plug it back in. There is a possibility that it slugged the compressor and there is a restriction in the line. Sometimes when the compressor fails to stop running in cold air the liquid gets back to the compressor. It can cause a bit of gunk to be picked up out of the oil and carried to the expansion line and plug up the line. Maybe turning it off will let the plug fall free and not replug the line. Worth a try anyway.....

Feb 07, 2008 | Freezers

2 Answers

Freezer not frezzing


DR....let's go down the list:

First is freeze up. This happens when too much humidity gets into the unit from the air and forms ice on the coils. Defrost the unit using warm air or leave it open and off for two days.

Problems that cause this: high humidity, 'window shopping', unit not left closed or bad gasket. If the gasket looks damaged, it will need to be replaced. Gaskets that have accumulated dirt don't seal. Use a mild cleaner to fix this. If you have doubts about an area where the seal is questionable...use a sheet of paper about 2-3 inches wide, close the door and pull it through. No resistance indicates a poor seal.

Make sure you clean out the condenser...the coils where the heat is rejected by the unit.

It is possible that you have refrigerant or defrost timer issues. To check for low refrigerant, start the unit after defrosting it. Note that the larger pipe attached to the big black thing....the compressor...will start to frost. It should then start to form ice while the unit is running...about 5 minutes. If the frost stays and the pipe is not REALLY cold, you have a problem with refrigerant. Sealed units are warranted for 5 years. Defrost timer issues are best left to a tech.

Dec 02, 2007 | Frigidaire 14.1 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...

7 Answers

Ice build up in my frost free upright freezer


I looked at the BACK at the bottom underneath of my Sears Kenmore frost free upright freezer and what was causing the ice buildup was very simple. At the factory, the assembler looped the little hose too high and when the water went into the hose it could not get out due to being too high in one spot! An ice dam will form, blocking ALL water coming through
and freezing up any more water coming down giving you a HUGE wad of ice that is scary!!! I just removed the screw holding the loop that holds the hose and put a bit of warm water down the little hole on the INSIDE (Behind the grate) to melt the remaining ice in the tube.You need to take out 4 screws and remove the grate to see this. I could not believe that this was the problem! I haven't had any ice build up since.Now don't tear your freezer apart before you try this trying to fix the compressor, thermostat etc. It may be the only thing wrong with it!

Nov 11, 2006 | Kenmore 16.7 cu. ft. / 473 liter Upright...

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