If the unit is not leveled properly, it will not drain properly. The front of the unit cannot be higher than the back If not properly leveled, the water can flow back into the machine. If this is the cause of the problem,
SOURCE: Duet error code F 02.
Just had this problem. Remove the kick plate in front of machine. The drain pump filter maybe clogged. Turn the white screw to remove filter, but be sure to have towels or a bucket handy. I clean mine out and now is working fine.
SOURCE: Washer stops with F11 code; door won't open
F-11 ERROR CODE MEANS :
Serial Communication Error Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.
TO RESOLVE THE PROBLEM:
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 F02 error
If you checked the drain pump reservoir and the problem still persists, you may have a pump with a damaged motor/impeller, or something lodged in one of the drain lines. In particular, the drain line that runs from the bottom of the wash tub to the inlet side of the pump.
I recommend you remove the inlet hose, first and inspect for clogs. In is common for small garments to become lodged in this area and restrict water flow to the drain pump. Check the output drain line for obstructions as well.
It does not take much to damage this small drain pumps. The error code is generated if the drain cycle exceeds 8 minutes. So...if the impeller or motor become damaged, and the pump does not pull water at the correct volume, you may still experience the drain error. In this case, you will have to replace the pump in order to get the error to clear. The following link explains how:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574350-replacing_the_drain_pump_in_a_front_load
Replacements can be purchased at any of the following websites:
searspartrsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. the first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.
If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: Miele G 7856 Commercial Dishwasher
Hi. The above machine stops mid cycle and drain/fill light is on, also
error code F3E, have cleaned both hot and cold water inlet filters, also
checked drain pump and drain line, all ok. Machine drains with no
issues and fills with hot water, runs for a while then shuts down.
Any ideas?
SOURCE: LSQ9264HQO washer stop function at drain cycle
The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $25 - $35 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. The lid switch part number for the model you have listed is 3949247. The lid strike (actuator) is 358684.
Another cause of a no drain issue can be a clogged drain pump or drain line. The following link explains how to access the drain pump and replace (if necessary):
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3794382-replacing_water_pump_whirlpool_top
These pumps are strictly mechanical (no electrical connections) and have one moving part - the impeller. You will need to remove the drain lines to inspect the pump interior as these pumps do not come apart. Check the drain lines and impeller area for any lodged items.
CAUTION: You will need to drain the wash tub PRIOR to removing any of the drain lines. A quick and easy way is to use a wet/dry shop vac to remove the water. If you do not own a shop vac, simple gravity will work by placing the drain hose on the ground and allowing the water to run out. If this is not feasible because of the washer location, you will need to bail.
If you need to replace the pump the part number for the model you listed this question under is 3363394. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.
Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.
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