Question about Dryers

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No heat i know that there is a wire leding from the motor to somthing that tells the heting element to warm but that wire is fried so the signal to heat is inoperable is there a wy to bypass this so tht the heat is lways on or do i just need to get a new dryer

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  • brown2181 Jul 30, 2009

    yes but the wiring harness is expensive and difficult to remove/replace and im need to bypass for a short term i can replace the thermal fuse if need be have alredy once part is less than 10 bucks

  • brown2181 Jul 30, 2009

    yes i have seen the burnt wire leading from the motor to its connector on the back of the dryer i hve reconnected it twice nd both times the wire heated up so badly the connection severed i can use the timed dry option to control burning or scorching from the heat being always on but repealicng one wire doesnt seem to be an option given it is connected to the harness itself

  • brown2181 Jul 30, 2009

    tested the thermostat last time and found there to be continuity is that bad or good

  • brown2181 Jul 30, 2009

    the dryer is maytag mde308dayw...how do i replce/reconnect the new wire to the harness also will i need to buy a new spade connector as well

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  • Master
  • 704 Answers

I think the problem is that your dryer element is likely bad. You would have to do some diagnosis steps to determine just what isn't working before you continue. I'm going to let you know that bypassing any control device that would allow the heat to be "ON" all the time while the dryer is running IS NOT a good idea, unless you want to have all your clothes badly scorched and/or burned up! (I've seen it happen!)

If you have a multimeter and are comfortable working aroung 220V-AC, you can fairly easily detemine if the heating element is bad or if it's something else. If you have seen a damaged wire, you should be able to get a replacement wire at most appliance parts centers or even at an electrical supply house, of the correct gauge and type.

I always look at the age of the appliance and the overall condition, before embarking on a repair. I always use the 60% rule - if the cost of the repair (or just the parts, as I do the repairs myself) exceed 60% of the cost for a new replacement appliance AND the appliance is more than 10 years old - I'll opt to get a new appliance.

If you can take some time to figure out what is defective or failed, you should be able to repair it for a relatively small cost. Dryers are pretty basic appliances and can normally be fixed fairly easily by most DIY'ers with some working knowledge of electricity and circuits. The trick is to know how to use a multimeter and be safe when you get to checking the functionality of everything once you restore power to the appliance.

Hope this helps you with your thought process as to what to do next.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

  • Mark
    Mark Jul 30, 2009

    OK, now that we know the element is good and you've already tried to replace the burnt wire, only to have it burn off at the connectors again, let's clarify how to properly repair this problem.



    You will need to get the proper wire gauge that has high temp, TEFLON insulation. This IS NOT the typical wire you can find at a big box or any hardware store. The wire will need to be copper, likely #14 Awg, possibly #12 Awg . The key to replacing the faulty wire is to use the correct type and gauge wire to replace it, otherwise, you'll keep having the wire burn.



    The other thing is when you strip the insulation off the wire ends that you use a good quality wire stripper and MAKE SURE you DO NOT nick or cut off any strands of the conductor, as loss of strands will cause failure at the temination (connector) fairly quickly. Also, use the right sided termination (connector) normally it's a .25 tinned, female spade terminal, but you need to get the right one. Then properly crimp the terminal onto the wire ends without crushing the termination. This is all important as nicked/cut strands and improper crimping of terminals, etc. will cause failure due to thermal runaway at the wire ends (connection points).



    Also, please provide your make and model number of the dryer so I can at least give you the correct wire type and gauge to obtain for your repairs. I still DO NOT recommend bypassing any safety control and anyone that does has no concern for the safety and welfare of people and their homes.

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

Bypassing is not recommended. it will blow the thermal fuse if done. the best action is to replace the wiring harness. this wire you speak of is directly connected to the timer or control board. if it is severed, it will not communicate with the element.

replacing the wiring harness will correct this issue.

The control sector is the principle initiator of all related drying functions. the motor and element receives the go command from the timer or control board, via wiring harness.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 30, 2009

    I would advise to test the thermostat as well. it seems to be stuck open.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 30, 2009

    (((Correction)))--Stuck closed

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 30, 2009

    That is good. no issues there.

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