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Machine will not go into Spin Cycle. Clothes remain soaking wet after Rinse Cycle.

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The answer depends on the make and model of your machine. If it's an older top loading washer, it is very likely that the transmission needs to be replaced/repaired.

Inside most top loading washer transmissions is a small part that lets the motor drive the transmission in either the agitation mode or the spin mode. When this part shifts back and forth to the two different positions for wash or spin. When it locks the transmission into the spin position, the motor and transmission can now spin the wash tub to help remove excess water from the clothes. When this lock breaks, the washer will still wash and agitate and the motor will still pump out the water in the washer, but without the spinning of the tub, clothes will not be damp dry enough to be put into the dryer.

The part itself isn't much money, but the problem is that the repair isn't easy for even a good DIY'er to perform, as you have to remove the agitator, wash tub, tub seal boot, and the transmission from the cabinet just to get ready for the repair process.

IF you can even get the repair part for the broken transmission (difficult as most manufacturers only let authorized service dealers buy these sub-components these days), it will be VERY messy to disassemble the transmission and remove all the oil and broken metal pieces from the transmission lock part.and then completely clean out the inside of the transmission housing replace the gear assembly and put in the new lock piece, plus add back new, clean appliance trans oil and a new end build washer transmissions on

When I first started out as a service tech, we used to rebuild the washer transmissions on used customer "trade-ins" when we had nothing else scheduled, so we could resell the used appliances and make a few bucks.

Bottom line is that for all the time, mess and expense you're going to have to go through, it is best to buy a new washer. Especially if your washer is more than 10-12 years old, since the tub is probably starting to get rust spots, etc.

You can try to find the part or a complete replacement transmission, but I think that the cost for a complete trans is enough to warrant buying a new washer. Hope that helps you make your decision.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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burdfrenzy
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SOURCE: Clothes are soaking wet after done

You may need a belt or a pump. Call sears they will help more.

Posted on Oct 17, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: clothes are still wet after spin cycle

sThere is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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