I have a cuisinart fry pan it will not work I would like to replace the cord how will I go about it love the pan ?.

Hi,

if you need replacement parts for your frying pan, please first start by checking on ebay to find them. Thank you.

Here is a CBK 100 pan if you need one.

https://www.seneca-river-trading.com/cbk-100pan.html#.YeXDYf7MKUk

100 and 200 are listed separately on all the sites.

CBK 200

https://www.google.com/search?q=Cuisinart+CBK+200+bread+pan

CBK 100

https://www.google.com/search?q=Cuisinart+CBK+100+bread+pan
..

Assuming you have already checked with the manufacturer's website or phone contact, I would suggest you check out ereplacements<dot>com. I have found almost all of the so-called 'orphan' appliance parts I have needed with them. If they don't have this item, do a web search on 'Hoover fry pan cord replacement' and see what you get. Something on a search like this has always gotten me what I've been unable to find otherwise. Good fishing.

I stumbled on this website by accident when I was trying to find a heat control for my Hoover fry pans. I own three. One is a model 8611 Fondue/Minnie Fry pan. It uses a "UniProbe" JPR 904. The control is rated 1650 watts, the pan is rated 800 watts. Your 8600 is a larger full sized pan. I do not own one of these pans to check the wattage. Read the wattage on the back of your old control as well as the bottom center of the pan itself. My research has not turned up any replacement for this part design. I never saw a competitor use this Uniprobe. I own a B3039 Broiler Lid full sized fry pan (Vintage about 1975). The pan is rated at 1200 watts with the control rated at 1500 watts. Yours is most likely a similar rating. The control is a no. 9906 or a78T. Neither, the UniProbe or the newer type is available from Hoover. The UniProbe was used in the 1960's and early 70's. It had three female connections. The outer two bring the wall current to the imbedded heating element in the pan. The center connection transfers heat from the pan to the temperature control and causes it to go on and off making it automatic. The later type control has the two outer female connections and brings in the power. The center connection was changed to the common male probe and transfers heat to the control to make it automatic. After a serious hunt for replacements I located the Presto control 0690005 rated at 1500 watts (just like the Hoover). Presto says their parts only work with Presto appliances. It works with Hoover for me, so I am happy. I bought the Presto griddle to test the probe compatibility and obtain the needed probe. I did find a company (by doing a "Bing" search) that claims they can bore the pan to accept the later type, probe (www.kieferappliance.com). Their approach sounds promising but if you decide to try this approach, do your own research of this company. If I understand your question correctly: I am not a parts dealer. I found a part that is serviceable for this long out of production "GEM" from Hoover. I am giving owners of these pans a way to continue using their pan as I did with mine. The downside seems to be that my simple fix for one style cord won't work for you. However, those that have one of the later models can continue to enjoy the uniqueness of these fine frying pans by trying the Presto control. CAUTION: Do not just start trying other parts to replace a missing part. It might be a dangerous experiment. Hope this clears up any misunderstandings. (As a side note: The main reason these controls fail is rough use of the cord going into the control itself. Too much pressure where the cord enters the control and the fine strands of wire will eventually break causing no electricity to get to the appliance. This will happen with any toaster or coffee maker or lamp cord or electric drill etc. These may be able to be repaired but it is not easy and is very time consuming.

I had been searching the net for a source of control cords for the line of Hoover frypans. Unfortunately, I found no source for the originals anymore. However, I continued in trying to find a substitute that would allow one to continue using these fantastic frypans. I was successful in finding one for the last generation of Hoover electric frypans that take the 1500 watt, 120 volt AC power cord. The pan says to use control no. 9906 or 78T. I have found that the powercord that fits a Presto Griddle model no. 07030 will fit and function properly. Presto also has a frypan that uses the same control. I purchased a griddle July 4, 2011 and tested the functionality the same day. The cord has the part model number of 0690005. The Presto cord will work in a Hoover. However, the Hoover original power cord will not fit the Presto. This is a good thing for us Hoover owners.
In 1965 I went to work for a retailer that sold Hover products. Vaccuum cleaners, toasters, steamirons, and electic frypans, etc. Hoover had a patent on a process to bond stainless steel to aluminum. So the steamirons and frypans were a great fit for this process. The control for these frypans had a female connection for the temperature control. These were a 1650 watt rated control. What I have been able to find is that this control is no longer available. Hoover is the only one that I am aware of that used this female configuration design.
In 1971 I went to work for the Hoover Company as a Field Sales Rep. About 1975 or so they redesigned their line of frypans and went to a male probe for the temperature reading for the controls. This is the design of frypan that I still own. About five years ago my mother found a phone number for small appliance parts to repair your broken items. She called and was told they did not carry parts for Hoover, but, was put on hold and they transferred her to an order desk for Hoover parts. They had the cord that was designed for the Hoover pans. As I remember this replacement cost about $25.00 with shipping. A couple years later, we thought that a spare in the closet would be worth having around. Hoover had no more small appliance parts anymore.
You look at the Presto cord and you can tell it is not a Hoover. However, you plug it in and it is a good fit. I hope this can help all those people out there that have a frying pan that they have acquired from a garage sale, EBAY, left in the will, etc. These frying pans were built to last like all of Hoover's appliances. Models include: Aluminum pans, stainless steel pans w/warming trays (one model had a copper anodized lid), B3039 stainless steel with broiler lids, the 81/2 inch mini fry pans, B3031 fondue pot w/ mini fry pan, and the B3087 Crepe Maker. Hoover acquired Knapp-Monarch which brought them the Nesco line of appliances. Nesco had a lot of the Hoover line under their own brand name. By the late 1970's Hoover closed out their small appliances. In the 80's the Hoover company was acquired by Chicago-Pacific which was later acquired by Maytag. Today Maytag is part of Whirlpool Corporation. Last I knew the Hoover vaccuum operations were for sale.
Hoover tried to build more use into their small appliances. That is why they built their frying pans with a warming tray below the pan. Keep your bacon warm while frying your eggs. Warm the bun while making burgers or a Sloppy Joe. Those that purchased the top of the line with the broiler lid got the most useful fry pan ever built. I use the broiler more than the pan.
Hope this will help those in need of a cord. I have seen where someone dropped the pan and broke the handles. The older pans had fixed handles. The last time Hoover sold parts this was all you could find. The last generation of pans had removable handles making it great to keep clean. From a safety stand point: It can't be fixed. However, with a little fooling around it might be possible to fabricate something using wood blocks. This is not something for someone without an engineering mindset for safety. It can be very dangerous.

no replace the cord, it is starting to brake down.

I got the phone # 4 Toastmaster on line, called them. They said the pan was 2 old 2 have the plug in stock any more. I called a local repair man who said he could put a new cord in the present "plug". Has to solder & re-wire temp. plug.

Thank u for asking, u have a good source for people 2 go 2 4 lots of issues--very effective. I'm glad 2 know u're there!

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