I have a GE side by side with water and ice in the door. I've cleaned the back and have defrosted it . Then 2 to 3 weeks later I've got to do it agian .The freezer will do it if it is set on 4 or 6 it goes to 9 for its coldest setting .
Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me,
the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side.
That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.
the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall
of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week).
Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer
move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.
The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with
a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is
moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment
I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and
solved the problem for a while.
I bough a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).
About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).
The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer
compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)
you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all
under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".
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We have a GE side by side that was only 4 years old before it starting giving us problems-coiling freezing over. The warranty period was only one year on all parts, including the compressor. Through our research we learned that profile appliances have or did have a better warranty. I believe it is 5 years on all or certain components. Either way it may be worth contacting GE customer service to help you with the issue and determine if repairs and parts for your appliance are still covered under warranty. They were very helpful in our case and ultimately discounted the parts I ordered and replaced myself. Replaced the the temperature sensors on the freezer side, the defroster thermostat and defroster heater before finally breaking down and replacing the control board. The control board was the problem. It was very easy to replace. While working through the issue, we would defrost the coils located on the inside of the freezer side with a hair dryer. It would get us by until the parts came in or they frosted over again and prevented air from circulating over them, thus causing the freezer not to cool. Good luck. Hope this helps you.
If the light and ice dispenser on the front panel works and If your fridge is 4 years old or older, the insulation in the freezer door has most likely deteriorated and the water in the tube feeding the water dispenser has probably frozen. Open the freezer door, put a blanket over the food to keep it from defrosting, and use a blow dryer to defrost the door. Blow the hot air on the flat panel inside the door (the backside of the water dispenser). Close the door about every 5 minutes to check to see if the water works. Once the water begins to flow, you have successfully defrosted the ice in the tube. Defrosting the door works for about 12 hours until it freezes again. To solve this problem, I placed a 10" weedeater line up thorugh the dispenser nozzle leaving about 1/8 of an inch sticking out. When the line freezes again, pull out the weedeater line, dispense water to free the ice, and then reinsert the weadeater line. I keep the line in all the time...it works great! If the light or ice dispenser do not work, the problem may be *********** board.
If the water tank in the fresh food section is leaking then you will need to replace it. the freezing in the fresh food section is due to the damper door not closing when it should. at the top left of the fresh food side there is a door that controls how much cold air it gets from the Freezer side. This door on your GE is controled by a motorized door witch is controled by a controlboard witch is reading sensors in your freezer and freshfood section for tempretures.
In short your freezing problem could be any of these:
temp sensor, Motorized damper door or control board. I would check the Motorized damper door first.
I had a similar problem. The frost in the back is an indication that your coils are frozen. This could be from food packages falling out of the freezer drawers in the back and blocking the air circulation vents or maybe the freezer door was not closed completely and letting moist/humid air in and freezing the coils. For me it was the first problem listed.I had to completely empty the freezer and Frig. and take the back panel off in the freezer. There you will see the coils and lots of ice! 1. Remove all items from the frig. and freezer and unplug frig. 2. Pull all the freezer drawers out. 3. On my GE side by side I took the light cover off and removed the bulb. There you will see two panel screws. Remove the screws. 4. Now pull out the mouldings on each side and you should be able to remove the panel. 5. Take a hair drier and completely defrost all the ice from the coils. Be sure to keep plenty of towels handy for all the water mess. Remember to keep an eye on the drain tray in the back of the frig. and use a sponge to collect the water that will build up. Hope this helps!..... Woody
is your drain line plugged up under that coil? another thing to check is if the door asket pinched that wold allow ait to infiltrate into the freeze and freeze up the coil. remember to clean under the unit once a year to keep the unit working properly and not having to struggle to condense the refrigerant. Hopt this solution's work for you and have a Happy New Year.
I found that the door on the GE side by side doors are not accessable and cannot be repaired if a water line inside the door is defective. The entire door must be replaced at a cost of almost $370. The problem, which seems to be quite common relative to the lack of water at the dispenser, is the result of the water tube in the door freezing due to excess cold levels in the freezing compartment. This is probabley due to poor insulation around the water line as in exits near the ice dispenser gate. The solution is simple, lower the freezing level and use water frequently to keep it from freezing. Also, keep the lines clean by changing the filter often if the local water source is laden with particulates. I think GE should foot the bill for changing doors or re-engineer the doors to access the area where the water line makes contact with the cold surface of the inside panal.
chances are you have a defrost problem check the back of the freezer for ice build up if so here is your problem defrost system if not push in freezer door switch and see if you hear a fan running do this any ways if fan dont run the coils will freeze up also to defrost the easy way unplug unit until ice melts this wont cure the problem but will let it run 2-3 more day until you fix it