Question about Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlepool electric dryer stopped heating.

It still spins though. It looks like the dryer cord is burnt, It splits into 3 connections and looks like the third one(on the right), is burnt. Would this cause no heat.

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  • mjspdr6 Jul 30, 2009

    Yeah,the red connection is burnt on the wire a little and the the copper looks a little shabby

  • mjspdr6 Jul 30, 2009

    I never touched the dryer for 7 years and i barely used it. I recently have tenants using it a lot more than normal.Plus they blow a breaker every now and then. Could not having enough ampage on my circuit breaker have caused this too?

    Thanks

  • mjspdr6 Jul 30, 2009

    I never touched the dryer for 7 years and i barely used it. I recently have tenants using it a lot more than normal.Plus they blow a breaker every now and then. Could not having enough ampage on my circuit breaker have caused this too?

    Thanks

  • mjspdr6 Jul 30, 2009

    Ok, i changed the cord and it still blows out cool air. I have the vent hose off the back of the dryer and just turn it on and can feel the cool air coming from the dryer. Thanks so far

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This could definitely cause a dryer no heat problem and a potential house fire. Purchase a new dryer cord and replace it. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

Follow the 3-prong wire color code provided. If the new dryer cord does not have any colors (all gray) simply make sure the center conductor gets connected to neutral (WHITE) at the terminal block on the back of the dryer. There should also be a grounding strap or ground wire (GREEN) attached to the neutral at the temrinal block. Each outer wire will then get connected to either of the two hot (RED and BLACK) terminals.

The reason your dryer still may tumble in spite of a bad dryer cord is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If one of the dryer cord conducters is burned in half, you may only be getting half your input voltage to the dryer. A voltage reading across the two hot terminals (left and right slots) at the wall receptacle should read 220-240VAC. You should also read this same voltage across the red and black wires at the terminal block. If not, you have a bad cord.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 30, 2009

    You can make this repair yourself. Even though it is considered high voltage, you install the power cord with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Purchase a new 3-prong cord. You can find them at any hardware store for about $20 or less, and are usually sold in 3 and 4 foot lengths.



    You may have had some loose wires at the terminal block which caused the wires to burn. Make sure you clean the terminal block really well (if needed) with some very fine emory paper and alcohol. When installing the new cord, make sure the terminal lugs are all snug and install a new ground strap to the neutral, if needed (use the same gauge wire). If you have any questions, please let me know.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 30, 2009

    If you have a bad power cord, it could be causing excessive current at the terminal block which caused the breaker to trip. If you have arcing occuring at any of the terminals, the terminal will heat up, which increases current flow. This results in burned wiring and melted wiring insulation. I bet if you replace the power cord, you're problem may go away. If the problem continues, let me know and we'll take it from there.



    NOTE: A dryer should have a dedicated circuit of 25 to 30 amps to accomodate. Dedicated = single circuit for the appliance only.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 31, 2009

    Okay...now that you have the bad power cord replaced, you will need to check the following components in the link provided:



    http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dry...



    NOTE: If the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Hi-Limit Thermostat proves to be faulty, replace BOTH components at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any of the components you do replace. These parts are often sold as a kit.



    If your model number is correct, you can easily access all your heating circuitry in the back of the dryer. Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. Your heating element and associated components are located on the right hand side (as viewed from the rear). The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. All these parts can be viewed at appliancepartspros.com. I used the model number you have this listed under. Look under the "Bulkhead Parts" heading for the following:



    Heating Element - item 17.

    Hi-Limit Thermostat - item 15.

    TCO - item 9 (if you purchase this item it comes with the Hi-Limit Thermostat).



    Please let me know if you still have questions. I hope this helps you.

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Get an electrician or dryer service person immediately!!! This is a high voltage problem. You may need a new connection block. If one wire is burnt or disconnected, it can be very dangerous.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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1 Answer

Ml1987295


I will assume that you have cleaned the lint trap and checked that there is no lint stuck in the lint trap cavity

First, check the dryer vent. Any blockage anywhere in the vent will stop air flow. A dryer needs air flow to dry. Check every bit of it, even where it goes outside.

if that isn't the problem, then check your electrical connections. Your electric dryer runs on 220 volts, but it's really two wires carrying the electricity to the dryer at 110 volts each. If one of those wires isn't connected, the dryer could still turn on and spin, but it won't dry the clothes.

I learned that the hard way going through 2 dryers. Turned out one of the fuses in my apartment's fuse box had blown, but 2 fuses made up the 220v circuit. The dryer would spin and would work a little bit on low settings, but any other setting it would just spin and not dry at all. Replacing the fuse fixed the issue. With a breaker box, the 220v double breaker is connected, so if one trips, they both trip, and it wouldn't spin or turn on at all.

So check the socket with a multimeter (or have an electrician check it) and unplug and check the dryer cord making sure each connector is securely screwed in to the panel on the back. There is typically an access panel on the back of the dryer right next to where the cord goes in that you have to take off to get to the connection panel.

The last thing I would say a DIYer could look at is the heating element. If you take the back off, you can access the heating element and see if there is any lint or debri in there... if there is, clean it out and try the dryer... if it still doesn't work but there was debri in the heating element's channel, it could have burnt up a safty sensor that shuts the heating element off when it senses too much heat (fire, or potential to cause a fire) I suggest using and appliance repair man at this point.

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I have no heat going into dryer checked the element and see nothing visually wrong with it. Could there be anything else to look for


www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYnoheatdryers.htm -
www.appliance411.com/faq/dryerheat.shtml
use these links above to troubleshoot.
Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs 2! )... - heating element ... - burnt wire ... - thermostats ... thermal fuse ( not all models )... - motor heat switch ... - timer ... - selector switch ... - burnt power cord/plug ...

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I have a DV306LEW/XAA dryer that is about 4 years old. It now has no heat. It is tumbling ok and the blower is working fine, it just blows cold air. I opened the small lint hose cover a vacuumed everything...


There is a thermal shutoff on the heating assemly that will turn off the dryer heat. Also, we just experienced a fire in ours due to lint build up in the body of the dryer even though we vacuumed out the lint trap on a regular basis. To look in this area, you have to take the top off the dryer and then the front. You can look by pulling out the dryer outlet connection and a flashlight. Make sure to put it back in correctly though to avoid a fire.

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No heat in dryer model # 96591420


Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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Hi


Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
  • house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them )
  • heating element, burnt wire
  • thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ),
  • motor heat switch, timer, selector switch,
  • burnt power cord/plug.
You can check these things using an ohmmeter/multimeter from here.


Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:

  • glow bar igniter,
  • thermal fuse ( not all models ),
  • coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,
  • motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.

A page for checking gas dryers is here.


Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

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Hi


Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
  • house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them )
  • heating element, burnt wire
  • thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ),
  • motor heat switch, timer, selector switch,
  • burnt power cord/plug.
You can check these things using an ohmmeter/multimeter from here.


Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:

  • glow bar igniter,
  • thermal fuse ( not all models ),
  • coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,
  • motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.

A page for checking gas dryers is here.


Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

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A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
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A page for checking gas dryers is here.

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