Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
You have been offered really solid solution for troubleshooting. If you are going to DIY the fix I would only add this.
If you are going to dive in for the DIY fix you will need the Service Manual. Go to the Service Manual link and download the SM. It’s not the best but its a must for troubleshooting. I would only suggest trying to fault isolate the “nf” error code no fill condition error by going into Service Mode and turn on the water inlet valves one at a time first Cold and see if water flows then Hot. I’m an owner and like to use the FAV6800AW Service Mode to fault isolate issues.
You will hear the water valve solenoids turn on (clunk sound) and water will either flow or not. If it you hear the valve open and only a trickle or no water flow then troubleshoot the blockage per the previous post excellent troubleshooting steps. As was stated check those water inlet screens for blockage.
This is from the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW Service Manual board output test on page 16.
Enter Service mode;
Enter / Exit Service Mode
To enter Service Mode press the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or until the control beeps. The Console display will show “00”.
Access Board Output Test by pressing the Delicates key, The console display will show “ot”
The lid lock will lock and the Quick Wash LED will be lit.
Now press Spin Only key the Cold Water Valve will turn on. You should here it “clunk” and water should start to flow, if water flow is restricted or you don’t hear the water valve open then troubleshoot the issue per the previous posters solution. Turn off the Cold Water Valve by pressing the Spin Only key or OFF key to back out of Service Mode.
Do the same for the Hot Water Valve by pressing the Normal key while in Board Output Test mode.
From your request for help I’m not sure if you want to DIY the fix. Anyone with basic mechanical skills can do this without using a DVM. Some additional skills are required if you start making resistance checks or 120 VAC checks with a DVM. This is a very easy fix if you have some basic mechanical skills compared to Clutch issues related to dc/UC errors or a possible Control Board issue as a poster just reported with blinking Console LED’s. Post back if you need additional help and someone will chime in. I’m a owner like you and we will try to help you.
I also use this link for parts look up Sears Parts Direct,
If you have to replace the water inlet valve here is the Part Number 25001046 looks like there is a substitution P/N 12002242 . I like AZ as my parts vendor of choice plug that P/N into their price checker for best price. Good Luck…. Rich
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
HI. You will need to check to make sure that the Water faucets are open fully and, check for kinks in the fill hoses as well. If all is ok in these areas, this will confirm a inlet valve issue. you should inspect the valve in this case.
The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting good water pressure and to clear out any debris from the line.
Inspect the filter screens on both the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. Use caution to avoid damaging the filter screens because the screens in the valve are not replaceable.
If debris was not present then proceed to the next step of testing the solenoids. Access to the valve may be easiest by opening the top or the back of the washer, depending upon make and model.
There are two wires connected to each solenoid (aka coil) on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first.
If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the washer is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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