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Re: maytag 412 gas dryer
I hate to say it but i have seen where some people forget to open the gs valve after replacing it. make sure the internal cutoff is open (next to the valve) and make sure the gas cock is open. both would have been shut off during repairs
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First look for air restrictions which would cause overheating and remedy that. Then hunt down these duct fuses and check them for continuity. The gas dyer fuse kills only the circuit to the gas valve assembly so if it or the control klixon next to it is open then no power can get to the gas assembly. The gass assembly consists of a flame sensor , an ignitor, and a pair of solenoids. All are powered together in a complex circuit intentionally so that the power is first diverted to the ignitor which will nt allow the solenoid coils to do their job because their is not enough juice to work the ignitor and them coils. So the flame sensor detects the heat coming off the ignitor and a bi-metal inside bends and kills power to that ignitor. With the energy freed up them coils yank open the gas valve and the gas flows out onto the ignitor.
If the ignitor comes on and the flame sensor shuts it down but no gas comes out or gas comes out on first try but fails to fire off again then them solenoid coils need to be replaced. More Here
Power from the control Klixon mounted on the blower housing energizes the gas valve assembly when the temp is below 105f and the dryer is set for heat. If that control is open then no power is applied and no heat. If a restriction causes the dryer to exceed 350 for some reason then the fuse next to the control Klixon melts. No power will get to the gas assembly but the dryer will run. On that gas assembly is an ignitor/flame detect sensor, an ignitor, and a pair of solenoids that open the gas valve. The flame sensor must have continuity. If it is open then no power will get to the ignitor. If the ignitor is broken you will also have nothing. The coils will not open the valve without a change in the resistance of the circuit. One of them coils has 3 wires and the other has 2. The sequence of gas valve operation is the flame sensor bi-metal has to open when the temp exceeds 1800f. this kills the power to the ignitor and flips the 3 wire coil so that the ignitor is now a thermocouple and the coils will yank open the gas valve. As long as that ignitor stays hot then the gas will continue to flow out the valve. If for some off reason the gas were not to ignite the ignitor would coold down and shut off the gas and that is your builtin safety. So what goes wrong? Blown thermal fuse, open control Klixon, open flame detect/sensor, open ignitor, or Intermittent coils,(the coils will get hot and quit with age.
If there is power to the ignitor and it does not glow the ignitor is bad. If it does glow,place a clamp on amp meter over one wire of the ignitor and turn the circuit on. If the ignitor reads less than 3 amps,replace the ignitor. If the ignitor glows and registers 3 amps or more you must check the flame sensor for correct operation. If the ignitor and flame sensor are both good,replace the gas valve coils.
If the dryer can be restarted within 1 minute and it starts again it's not likely the coils. It may be poor air flow causing the safety thermostat on the flame tunnel going off as a warning. If it takes several minutes off to make it start again, it's likely the coils. When they cool down the broken coil contracts and the broken ends come back together (you can't see this). The coil kit number is 12001348 for the DG412.
Be careful not to break the ignitor when you service these...it is VERY prone to breakage. Turn off gas and electricity before servicing.
The coils are the #1 failure in gas dryers, below is a description of how they work. This excerpt from; www.repairclinic.com.
Gas valve coils
Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower
housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air
coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the
dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still
run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle)
thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas
valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the
no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is
energized the flame sensor
mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the
ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the
and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully
energised and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red
hot igniter and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes
or until the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to
the gas valve assembly. So...
If your gas dryer has a good flame sensor and a good igniter AND the dryer will work some and quit, replace these:
Gas operator coils part# 279834
The coils get hot and quit on these machines when they get a
little age on them. It is aggrevating because it is a hard to diagnose
thing. But well worth the 20 bucks.
First thing to check is the ignitor underneath the drum. (You have to open the panel to see it) It should glow shortly after the dryer starts, then the flame starts and the ignitor shuts off. If the ignitor is glowing but the gas does not light then the gas valve coils may have to be replaced. If the gas ignites but does not stay on either the flame sensor or the coils are at fault.