The piston is not hammering, model 125 needle scaller
The piston is not hammering, even with a more pressure than usual. According to the instructions, is part 18 (casing assembly) threaded to part 1? (backhead) I would like to clean piece by piece, I think humidity in the air caused oxidation.
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A sewing machine operator can often help themselves when their machine does not operate properly. Here are some simple instructions, which if properly used can save time and mechanics service calls. TROUBLE;UPPER THREAD KEEPS BREAKING; This could be trouble;================Do this; 1.Top tension to tight================loosen tension 1 turn 2.Machine improperly threaded=========check threading 3.Thread twisted on guide post========" 4.Thread twisted out of tension=======" 5.Take up spring bent or broken=======Check action of spring 6.Thread jumped off pull off finger===Check threading 7.Needle bent or burred===============new needle 8.Bad cone of thread==================try another cone TROUBLE;LOWER THREAD KEEPS BREAKING; 1.Bobbin tensionspring to tight=======Loosen tension slightly 2.Bobbin threaded wrong===============check threading 3.Bobbin wound to tight or uneven=====try new bobbin 4.lint or thread on bobbin case=======clean inside case 5.Lint or thread inside hook==========clean inside hook 6.Bobbin case nicked bent or burred===check/change case TROUBLE;MACHINE STARTED SKIPPING STITCHES; 1.Needle bent or burred===============change 2.Needle set in crooked===============Check 3.Thread jumped off take up spring====check threading 4.Thread jumped off pull off finger===check threading TROUBLE STITCHES SHOWING LOOPS; 1.Forming loops on top of cloth=======Tighten bobbin tension ======================================or loosen top tension. 2.forming loops on bottom of cloth====Tighten top tension 3.Bobbin placed in case incorrectly===remove and replace 4.Bobbin thread slipped from under====check threading of tension===============================bobbin case 5.Lint or thread in top tension=======clean between tension discs
Lack of hammering action usually indicates a lack of lubrication or worn piston orings. This hammer as well as many other makita hammers work with a piston moving forward and back within a cylinder. This piston moves a second piston within the cylinder with a pocket of air (pressure and vacuum). If there is a lack of lubrication or orings are worn, you will not get a good hammering action /force out of the second piston. Time for good cleaning and apply factory lube. Parts are at www.toolpartsdirect.com Good luck
The clutch is just spun onto the crank, left hand thread ( with the bar and chain on it is self tighning). The clutch centre ( spider ) has two indents ( cut-a-ways ) where you can insert the screw driver end of the combi spanner, with the deco valve out, tap the other end of the tool with a suitable hammer, keep jarring it against compression until it spins off, this is the correct way from the factory to remove it without the special tool, there is a workshop tool that fits into the center, with a 19mm nut on so as to use an impact wrech to remove the clutch, my advice is not to use a piston stop, or put anything into the cyliner to lock the piston, jarring against compression is the best way. Because the clutch is just spun on, you should never run the saw with the bar and chain removed, the clutch could well fly off causing injury. The special tool is part no. 502541601
Large hammers have an air driven piston (an air cushion betweem pistons) and an intermediate anvil that actually hammers on bit. If the cylinder and air cushion piston are dry there will not be enough suction/pressure between the driver piston and driven. Remove lower part of hammer and lube with electric hammer grease. Make sure that orings fit snuggly and the anvil is not jammed. Do not store hammer with the bit pointing up because the driven piston will slide down cylinder and hug driver piston. If the hammer was stored pointing up, turn hammer around and place in stand with nose down in a warm location so that the driver piston will drop into place. Good holidays
The centrifugal clutch is usually just threaded on a threaded part of the crankshaft. This sometimes can't be seen because the clutch itself hides the threads. You can remove it by getting a flat, blunt object such as a flathead chise and placing it against the raised section or ear on the clutch near the center, not where the pads are and tapping it with a hammer. This will of course cause the engine to rotate too and it's mounted on the engine's crankshaft, so...you before attempting the clutch removal, remove the spark plug and turn the engine till the piston is down (look inside with a light) and insert a length of clean, soft rope...that way when you turn the engine, the piston will compress the rope and lock up (without causing any damage) allowing you to remove the clutch.
This is a easy problem... Have any question call 972-907-9771 x311 ATTENTION Hammer springs and hammer tips are fragile. Do not touch the hammer springs or tips. Handle hammer springs by the thick mounting base only. Apply pressure only to the mounting base. NOTE: Replace a hammer spring assembly only if there is visible damage or broken parts can be seen in the assembly. 5. Remove the mounting screws from the old hammer spring assembly. (See Figure 18, page 367.) 6. Handling the hammer spring assembly by the mounting base only, gently pry the old hammer spring assembly off its mounting pins. (See Figure 18, page 367.) 7. Inspect the hammer bank and the old hammer spring assembly: a. If there is ink on the hammer bank mounting surface, the hammer spring assembly mounting surface, or the hammer spring neck or tines, reinstall the old hammer spring assembly and replace the shuttle frame assembly (page 405). b. If the old hammer spring assembly and the hammer bank are free of ink, install the new hammer spring assembly Installation 1. Using a clean dry cloth, wipe the hammer spring mounting surface on the hammer bank. Make sure the cloth does not leave lint on the hammer bank. ATTENTION Hammer springs and hammer tips are fragile. Do not touch the hammer springs or tips. Handle hammer springs by the thick mounting base only. Apply pressure only to the mounting base. NOTE: Replace a hammer spring assembly only if there is visible damage or you see broken parts in the assembly. 2. Handling it by the mounting base only, remove the new hammer spring assembly and mounting screws from the box. 3. Handling the hammer spring assembly by the mounting base only, carefully position it on the hammer bank mounting pins. then gently press the mounting base down against the alignment pins. (See Figure 19, page 369.) 4. Continue pressing down on the mounting base of the the new hammer spring assembly as you install the mounting screws from the replacement kit. Using a Torx T-10 bit adapter, torque each screw to 14 inch-pounds (1.58 N•m). Tighten the center screw(s) first. (See Figure 19, page 369.) NOTE: Use the 1-30 inch-pound Torque Screwdriver, IBM part number 16F1661. 5. Install the hammer bank cover assembly (page 354). 6. Install the shuttle frame assembly (page 405). 7. Install the ribbon and load paper. ATTENTION Do not attempt to adjust or “tweak” hammer springs. 8. Run an operator print test and check print quality (page 223): a. If print quality is acceptable, return the printer to normal operation (page 339). b. If print quality is still degraded, replace the shuttle frame assembly (page 405).
you need a piston stop to stop the engine from rotating,then with a clutch tool you can spin off the clutch,most of them are left had thread.if you don't have a clutch tool you can use a hammer and punch on one of the main arms of the clutch itself.for a piston stop you can use a piece of 1/4"rope.put the piston at the bottom of the stroke and stuff the rope in the sparkplug hole,this stops the piston from reaching it's full stroke.