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Replaced bearings, shaft and susspention rods and I still have the uL, even those I try to level all the clothes in the tub won't drain or spin

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: washer won't spin fast, only slow

tyr removing the lower acees panel from the uint , ther is a "button trap" located there to catch debris from entering pump assy, chances are its clogged and if it cant drain all the water it wont go into high speed spin, also you MUST use an HE detergent. HE detergent specifically designed for front loading washers

Posted on Apr 29, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: UL Code

Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust?  The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles.  Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around.  Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load.  That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

FAV6800AWDIY
  • 526 Answers

SOURCE: Unbalance Issue with my washer model FAV6800AWW.

Hi 2pleach

If you are taken dC/uC errors I think you have to drop the clutch out again and see if you can clean and Re-Lube the One-Way Roller clutches/bearing. I wonder if you have a slight tub seal leak causing this issue to reoccur. Did you follow my clutch maintenance/replacement post Clutch repair post on this site? As you know I’m a DIY’er/owner as you. You did the right troubleshooting with the TDS check.


I have posted solutions under dh1200s and FAV6800AWDIY. I feel I have 50+ machine saves $1k original cost I think between this site, FIXITNOW.COM, APPLIANCEJUNK.com Appliance repairparts.com forum. I go by dh1200s on those forums. The bulk of this FAV6800AW/FAV9800A machine owners flock to this forum…..I should get some consulting $fee$....:) but I do it for nada just trying help owners like myself not junk a $1000 machine.

Regarding the struts see this post. I feel if you are going to chime in on a fix you should know the subject matter. If the tub sets level and returns to normal after the TDS checks you are good to go…..not rocket science just common sense and good old fashion troubleshooting. A lost art among some repair folks or they never had it to begin with.

You are a very savvy DIY’er let’s drop the clutch out again. Please look at this post I show how to test if the One-Way Roller clutches are not locking up in the CCWSpin cycle direction. Don’t get distracted with misinformed info about the front struts.

I can give you phone support if necessary just let me know what I can do to help…. I push no snake oil fixes….:)…Rich I go by *D*i*c*k* but this BS board blanks it out as a nasty .

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 tub spins excessively clockwise during wash cycle.

Improperly installed thrust bearing kit. Too many washers cause the basket to spin during agitation.

Posted on Jan 04, 2010

Testimonial: "Where is the "thrust bearing kit" and how can it be installed properly?"

richroth
  • 9472 Answers

SOURCE: UL LIGHTS SHOW AT FINAL

One thing to understand is that this is a difficult problem to pin down and may end up requiring the control board to be replaced.

The UL or unbalanced load error is displayed when the control board senses an out of balanced load.

You don't indicate if the washer is actually out of balanced or not when the code appears but the description of banging and shaking would indicate it is out of balanced.

If the washer consistently bangs and shakes in spin then I's suggest you remove the spin basket and check under it for obstructions that might prevent the washer from spinning smoothly.

The image below will help you with this project. Remember to unplug the washer first.

If there is nothing like coins or socks under the basket then the problem might be the control.

richroth_164.jpg

Posted on Sep 08, 2011

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UL code keeps coming up at last 9-10 min of spin cycle will not finish load What could be causing this? Is it bent suspension rods?


I replaced the suspension rods but it not resolve the UL issue - still gave UL code even when run with no clothes in load -so I called Maytag for service.(Purchased REPAIR PLUS 1 which covers this repair and one year maintainence contract). Tech from local subcontractor service came out and said it was the bearing. I am still waiting for repair 10 days later because service contract required "approval" before he could order parts (7) including rotor and sensor although to fix bearing tech should only need bearing kit & tool to pull old bearing.

May 20, 2016 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Maytag Top Load Washer MVWB850YW making loud noise in spin cycle.


If it's a roaring noise, the tub bearing is probably wearing out. Spin the tub a little with your hand, if you hear a little of the roar, that's it.

Nov 26, 2013 | Maytag Bravos Series MVWB850YW 28"...

3 Answers

How do you solve the balance problem in the kenmore elite oasis even with no clothes it in


Try running with no clothes? If still shows UL when empty running, your machine needs service. P.S. use HE detergent or else.

Aug 27, 2012 | Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Why is it that my washer is not completing the spin cycle,it is still very wet when it stop??


Hello there and welcome to fixya
The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.


Sep 12, 2011 | GE Washing Machines

1 Answer

Clothes wet after spin


Hi, if clothes are wet after spinning, check.......
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag), a worn clutch (GE/Hotpoint), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Apr 13, 2011 | Whirlpool LSR8433K Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Everytime it goes to spin it starts shaking real bad displays ul then ol not even anything in it i have pulled tub there is a crack in the piece with windings but not affecting windings


The ul and ol are unbalance load and over load.

I would suspect the suspension rods, if you look you can see the tub is suspended by 4 rods (10 in image) and spring loaded shock built into them.

9d6e9d5.jpg

The crack in the stator is nothing that should cause any worry about.

If the suspension rods, springs and holders are all okay the next likely suspect is the basket itself.

Apr 25, 2010 | Kenmore Oasis 27042 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Won't spin


OL error means the Motor Controller has sensed an Overload.

The oL code means the motor control board is struggling to power the motor up. If it recurs after removing some clothes - usually this means a new motor control.... or worse - a new bearing.

If it were a problem with the tub floating up, the unit would spin instead of nutate.

Bearing failure in this machine is very common.

I suspect the drive shaft and bearing are the problem. The bearing and shaft are part of the outer tub.

The new outer tub with bearing W10128830 cost approximately $197 dollars.

If you can get access to the shaft it may be an Emory cloth will help smooth things down so that you no longer get the OL code.

This is an ambitious do-it-yourself project... as most appliance repairmen don't understand how this machine operates.




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Apr 04, 2009 | Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Washing machine shaft wont move


hi friend,
If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many
washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub
that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's
attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the
hoses
from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the
large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using
needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator,
top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might
be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be
turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably
has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the
pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen
or stiff--replace it.

It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your
washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the
washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck
in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

* If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.


* If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Dec 08, 2008 | Amana 3.2 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer

9 Answers

UL Code


Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust?  The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles.  Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around.  Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load.  That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.

Jan 12, 2008 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

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