Question about Science & Laboratory
At first I thought it was cooking grease, but I put some in a metal can and heated it on the stove - it didn't melt. Of course, both tenants in this rental property deny putting anything strange down the drain or toilet. Any ideas on what this stuff could be? Any way/place I could have it tested to find out what it is? CLIVE - thanks for the response - but I'm in NYC so the water is not hard
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is normal. That's why I always recommend to my customers that the food be placed slightly off-center on the turntable. An analogy I refer to is stirring paint: If you stir paint with a stick by simply rotating the stick in the center of the can, it's far less effective than pulling the stick around an imaginary circle halfway bewteen the center and the edge.
Posted on Sep 15, 2006
SOURCE: Dacor DMD2420S
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
This can be caused by slamming the door or by habitually opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Feb 09, 2008
SOURCE: microwave doesn't heat up
There are three solutions (source) =>
A diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat and you will hear a buzzing noise. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.
High Voltage Capacitor
A capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating but you are hearing a buzzing or humming noise. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.
A defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating, but you can hear a buzzing noise. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
It might be that the internal power fuse of the MW may have blown. You may have to just replace that fuse if possible. Other wise the electronics (most likely a circuit board) may have been blown.
Posted on Oct 17, 2009
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Dec 05, 2017 | Science & Laboratory
on May 13, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
on Aug 05, 2010 | Air Tools & Compressors
Sep 23, 2017 | Plumbing
am a certified HVAC Technician. I have worked in the field since 1996. I have
seen this hundreds of times, if not a thousand times, in the past. Every
central air conditioning and heat pump system comes with TWO drain pans, The
MAIN drain pan is located within the AIR HANDLER (blower) UNIT, while the
EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN is extremely LARGE and sits under the ENTIRE AIR HANDLER
(blower) UNIT. The ONLY time water will be INSIDE an EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN is
when the MAIN DRAIN PAN condensate drain line is CLOGGED, causing the MAIN
DRAIN PAN to overflow. What causes the drains pans OR the drain lines to become
clogged is slime and scale from the condensate water as well as debris from
within the attic that may have either been blown by the air or may have simply
have fallen into the emergency drain pan; or some insects from the out of doors
have traveled up into the PVC Drain line and built a nest on the downward side
of the P-trap. The P-trap is designed to prevent critters from entering your
home through the PVC drain lines. Most CLOGS occur at the P-TRAP location.
The BEST thing to do is:
Locate the WHITE PVC drain pipe outside your house and ensure there is NO water
draining from it.
2. Locate the same WHITE PVC drain pipe inside your house. You should notice a "TEE" where two WHITE PVC drain pipes merge into ONE WHITE PVC drain pipe.
the below steps, in the order shown:
A. FIRST, find another person to act as your second set of eyes at the end of the WHITE PVC Drain Line that is located outside of your home. That person will be looking for water or debris to EXIT the end of that WHITE PVC DRAIN LINE.
SECONDLY, locate the WHITE PVC "P-TRAP" inside your house. It is
normally located within a couple to three feet of your indoor air handing
C. THIRDLY, very gently lift the entire WHITE PVC drain line up in the air as high as you can without breaking it, and slam it down onto the rafters or attic floor or garage floor. You are attempting to dislodge the CLOG within the drain pipe WITHOUT having to actually CUT the PVC and without damaging or breaking the WHITE PVC. Depending on how old the system is, it may or may not be brittle; and it may not take much to damage or break the PVC, which will cause leaks. So, be very careful at this point.
Ask the person outside if anything has started to EXIT. You can ALSO usually
hear water start to drain if you put your ear up to the drain line. If the
person said "NO"and if you don't see the water level getting LOWER in the
EMERGENCY drain pan, then REPEAT step "C" above.
If the person informs you that there IS water now starting to exit the WHITE
PVC DRAIN PIPE, you should then wait until all water has drained from the
EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN; and then pour at least 1 quart of BLEACH down that drain,
from the EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN exit. The BLEACH will further clear out any SLIME
which may be remaining within the "P-TRAP" and will also CLEAN OUT and
DISINFECT that drain line.
If the above steps do NOT work for you, then prepare to go into the next LOGICAL phase of your attack. Please NOTE: I am limited to 10,000 characters in my response, so I'll repost additional STEPS in another RESPONSE. Good Luck!!!
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