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There are several possibilities. This model is based on CRT (picture tube) technology, and has a high voltage circuit. This circuit consists of three heavy wires, one from the side of each picture tube (red, green and blue) going to a single connection block. There is another heavy wire from this to the high voltage transformer on one of the circuit boards.
First, unplug the set, and wait 20 minutes to make sure everything is cool and residual high voltage charge has drained away. Check the wires at the connection block to make sure they are not loose. There is usually some sort of retainer clip to lock the wires in place, make sure these are not broken or unlatched (sometimes they get brittle with heat and aging). Frequently these are covered with a thick layer of dust held on by electrostatic attraction; gently vacuum this off. If all looks good, plug in the set, and wait until it's dark outside. Turn on the set with the room lights off, and look at the high voltage parts. If you see a blue corona glow or sparking, that part has an insulation breakdown problem or a bad connection. It is normal to see an orange glow at the bottom of each picture tube, and you would also see the three colors of the picture coming out of the tops of the picture tube. WARNING: do not touch the interior of the set while it is on, especially not in the dark.
Another probable cause is a cracked solder connection on the power/deflection board (the one with the high voltage transformer on it). If the flickering is one color rather than white or a momentary darkening, the problem is in one picture tube circuit (yellow -> blue dropout; ->cyan -> red dropout; magenta -> green dropout). The picture tube circuit includes not only the high voltage (second anode) section, but also the picture tube drive connection on the base of the tube all the way back to the video processor and switching circuits.
If model number is correct (on rear of set in small letters it should be a PTK 195 chassis) you have a high voltage lead somewhere that is arcing.
This set did have issues with the High Voltage transformer failing and also that High Voltage (well over 10,000 volts) gets distributed to each of the 3 picture tubes this model uses.
Sometimes the lead where it connects to one of the tubes begins to arc---it is coated with white silcone to prevent this.
If arcing around the entry point to any of the tubes sooner or later it will take the set down--destroy parts that are currently ok.
Usually we locate this by turning set on with back off and looking and listening when set is turned on---If a frying or pop is heard up above the main boards--one of the entry points (called the 2nd Anode) is arcing.
I have seen them arc hard enough and long enough to actually crack and break the glass wall of the picture tube.
There is a problem with the color "guns". In a cathode ray tube TV there is one for each color. A sharp jolt can misalign these guns or the voltage on one may have become much larger than the others.
DO NOT attempt to fix this problem yourself. Extremely high voltages are present on and around the picture tube, where the magnets for the these "guns" are located.
HIGH VOLTAGE persists for WEEKs after the set is powered off. Consult a qualified TV technician.
the arcing sound is some kind of high voltage leak, which will shut down the tv. pull the speaker grill off and the access board, look at the 3 picture tubes, turn the set on you will see where the leak is, it's usually the high voltage splitter, which has a high voltage wire going into it and 3 high voltage wires coming out going to the picture tubes, if it arcs from the splitter you need to change it, if it arcs from one of the picture tube wires you need to pull the tube out and fix the high voltage leak, and possibly a cooling fluid leak caused it, not an easy reapir, you probably need a repairman.
It is usually large and black. Its the one with the rather thick red wire coming out of it. The other end of that wire either connects directly to the picture tube or into a distribution block which distributes the high voltage to the 3 picture tubes (guns) in projection TV's. Be aware that this transformer produces high voltage and can store voltage even when the set is unplugged. I hope this helps.
Yes you have no High Voltage, and you have filaments if you look at CRT's and they are dimmly lit on neck of tube.:::::This model is equipped with a self-diagnosis feature to help with diagnosis of shutdown problems. To activate this turn the unit on let it shutdown then press the input and menu buttons on the front panel simultaneously and hold them in for 5 seconds after 5 seconds the power LED on the front panel will blink a two digit sequence. This will be one set of blinks a short pause then another set of blinks, this will repeat 5 times. 1 - 2 = no error detected 2 - 1 = X-ray protect (high voltage or beam current) 2 - 2 = Short protect (short protect monitors low voltage supplies) 2 - 3 = Deflection protect (this could be loss of vertical or horizontal deflection) 2 - 4 = Vertical protect (usually loss of vertical from the source) 1. Shutdown at power with self diagnosis error 2-1. At power on check for 12-volts DC at connector KH pin 8, if missing check IC9C51 part # 270P990010 and L9C52 part # 441D009020 on the Signal PCB