I have a Powerplay 61 key electric keyboard, model ksp970 Today it was working fine, i took it to my friend's home, it turned on and played fine. Back on, not working.

SOURCE: Ensoniq MR-61 keyboard

reset that piano by giving it 20 min with power!!

plz aret this post

SOURCE: Logitech LX310 keyboard / mouse (wireless)

it works fine on my brothers computer but it doesnt work on mine, i dont really want to reformat either. any way of fixing it without reformat?

SOURCE: Roland Juno D Keyboard Keys not sounding

The problem of the Juno-D is de rubber strips inside under the keysthere are 5 strips, you have to clean this rubber strips with alcohol and clean the board too, this will resolve your problem if you leave the Juno-D without playing for a long period you will get the same problem again. this is a very poor keyboard it,s a pitty that Roland Make so poor keyboard!!!!

SOURCE: No sound when piano keys are pushed on my Yamaha dgx-620

I'm sorry but it sounds like you will have to have it repaired professionally.

SOURCE: Edirol PCR-50 wont output any data for most keyboard keys

Yes people it can be fixed by yourself at home, cheaply and easily. I’ve got an Edirol pcr-80 & prc-a30. Both have had intermittent key troubles and keys that just don’t work anymore or low/high level compared to other keys. These problems seem to start after a year or so. I’ve paid hundreds of dollars getting them fixed until I tried this on a whim. The contacts under the keys are a carbon-based contact so cleaning them with metho/alcohol just dries out this carbon. Some people say cleaning them with a pencil easier helps and it can do slightly but not properly. What you need is “Graphite Powder”. (Link for a picture of a appropriate product – just cut and paste it in your Internet heading bar, or Google image search graphite powder…)
http://images.google.com.au/images?hl=en&source=imghp&biw=1024&bih=1080&q=graphite+powder&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Graphite powder is a dry fine powder that is conductive and perfect for the job. You can purchase at any locksmith – maybe a good hardware store, and it is sold as “non liquid lubricant for locks and machinery.”
All you need to do is unscrew the case, remove the springs that hold the keys in, remove the keys. (White keys first then black keys. Keep in order.) Peel off the rubber strip under the keys and turn over so you can see the little carbon nipples that touch the circuit board. (2 for each key) Pour a little power out on a sheet of paper and use a cotton tip bud to apply a little powder to these. Now apply a little to the carbon contacts on the circuit board where the little nipples touch. Do all this with your midi keyboard plugged in to your computer/synth etc so you can hear how you’re going with getting contact before you put it all back together. You might get a key or two going off when doing this because the graphite power is making a continuous contact across the circuit board. Just blow/lightly wipe away excess to stop this but you want to leave all the contact points evenly (if slightly) coated. Try touching the rubber strip contacts with the circuit board contacts to see if you can get a sound. This can be a bit tricky to line up and get an even contact. This sorts its self out when everything is back together.
Now put back the rubber strip. I used I tiny screwdriver to help push the rubber guide back in the holes on the circuit board. Now put the keys back (black first – with the short springs then white keys with the longer springs) screw the case back together and let me know how you went.
This I think will dry up again in time but if you get a good bit of use out of it you can just do it again… For free…
Garthy.