I have an alpine amp with 2 12 inch audiobahn subs. The problem is I bought a new car and got a deck installed professionally and told the guy to leave out the remote and rca cables out because I could do the rest. After I installed everything it worked great. After about 3 days, it stopped working. Now, when I turn the key for the ignition, the amp light flashes, but wont stay on. But I know it works because I tested it in another car as well as the subs. Both fueses are good. Any help is appreciated !
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Sorry,after rereading your problem,I gave a wrong answer.Do you have the deck sub RCA pre-amps connected to the amp,then the wires from the amp to the sub?If you do,you need to check what the sub and amp are rated as such as,peak or rms.They are 2 completely different meanings.Greg
A mono amp will generally provide more power for subs. And for those Audiobahn's, you'll want something that will provide a minimum of 500-600 watts RMS to each, a least a 1000 watt amp. At the low end, something like the Alpine MRP-M1000 or the Orion HCCA-D2400 will provide 1000-1200 watts. I'd recommend the Alpine. For more power, and another $100, look at the Alpine M2000, or for another $250, the Rockford-Fosgate T1500-1bd.
try reconnecting your rca's from the deck to the amp when finished wire one speaker positive to positive on left channel and negative to negative on right channel then connect the 1st subwoofer. if all power and sound is fine and working turn off power to amp and connect negative terminal of 1st sub to positive on 2nd sub and positive from first sub to negative on second crossing the wires runs the speakers in series another way to try is parralel the speakers wiring by connecting positive left channel output of amp to positive on 1st sub same with the negative then splice positive to positive on second sub and same with negative.
Hi, just turn up the gain, though the max voltage may be higher, it does not mean the audible output is higher, alpine decks subwoofer control is an attenuator, so at max it will be the same level as front n rear, on min it is -15db... you will probably find the kenwood is +/- 7db so it has a gain boost...
just crank up the amp gains, problem sorted...
The Alpine has two tigger wires when it turns on. One is an AMP TURN ON wire (blue/white) and a PWR ANT wire (blue) and that wire only comes on when using the radio or an optional HD radio unit ... When it was installed/connected . someone hooked your amp turn on wires for your "full range amps" to the PWR ANT wire. And the sub amp trigger is either hooked correctly to the AMP TURN ON WIRE or somewhere else, it probably shouldn't be... Check it. Amp triggers should all be to the blue/white wire from your alpine. Warning: Alpine trigger wires, are very easy to mess up they supply a very limited amount of power.
Connect the 2 gage to the battery thru at least s 50 amp fuse, then connect the capacitor in line before the amps. Then run the 2 gage to a connector/splitter block and run 4 gage leads to each amp. You also will need at least 4 gage ground leads from each amp to a body grounded bolt or screw. You need to run a quality set of speaker leads from the head unit to the amps. The speakers will need separate leads from the amp to each speaker.You will need to try some different combinations to get the sound and bass you want. You want to be able to fade from front to rear and control everything thru the head unit. Use a hole saw to cut a 2 to 3 inch diameter hole in the side of the speaker box for a port to get a better punch from the sub. Hope this helps some....
What kind of car did you install this in? Did it have a factory radio in it? If I had to take a guess I would think that there is a factory amp that you may have hooked the blue wire from the alpine deck to. If this is the case when you switch to CD the alpine deck turns off the power to the power antenna lead(blue wire) and thus your factory amp. If this is the case hook the factory amp turn on to the blue and white wire and you should be good to go.