Honeywell ceramic heater hz341bl

Like most heaters, this Honeywell ceramic heater has a tip switch designed to turn the heater off if it falls over. Unfortunately, all you need to do is bump the heater and the switch can open. Sometimes the switch will stick and the heater won't come on even when it is upright—sticking during storage could easily happen, particularly if not stored upright. When the switch is stuck on my heater, when I try to tturn it on the yellow and green pilot lamps flash once but nothing happens.

The solution is to rattle it, shake it, and invert it a few times to unsitck the switch. It always works for me. Something probably best done before you get frustrated to the point of shoving it through the floor. Also, if the heater was running when the switch sticks, be sure it cools down so the thermal switch has a chance to come back on.

heater stays on about a minute then it cuts off

how can i fix my honey well heater?

I had a problem with my Honeywell HZ-315 ceramic heater. The light would go on the heater would work for a short time then turn off for a long period. I suspected some kind of overheating sensor similar to what exists in hairdryers. My solution was to disassemble the heater (you will need a T-10 size torx screwdriver and move the overheating sensor away from the top of the heater without removing the sensor. This simple step fixed the problem for me.

To the guest who is having fun trying to take it apart (and, presumably, anyone else in the same boat), the key is where the power cord goes up into the heater under the bottom plate. There is an o-ring there that you have to take off (which is a giant pain in the ass without the proper tool..believe me) with a tool that looks like pliers, only they open when squeezed instead of close and come to points, if you can visualize that. From there, you also need an actual tamper-proof torx screwdriver (the socket kind that works on the upper screws won't work here), which I don't have, and am thus out of luck, for the moment. Most likely that whatever kill-switch is in there that tends to go off is the problem, but I feel the need to poke around anyway.