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My dryer is a supreme 7cycle 4temp, model LER7646EZ0. No heat. Is resistance of heater coil around 9omhs? Voltage on one end of heater coil is 52 vac terminal to ground.

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  • Whirlpool Master
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Set your meter to "beep" when leads are touched together . Disconnect 1 wire from element , then touch both element terminals . A beep , it's good . Touch the small "thermostat" (thermal cut-off ) terminals at the top of the heater box and see if it beeps . No beep , bad . Pt # 279816 . This pt# includes the thermal cut-off AND the hi-limit thermostat . Both must be replaced .

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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3 Answers

What does error code E56 mean?


That error is an E5b error. This indicates a problem with the heating element, the thermistor or the control board. You'll need to unplug the unit and access the wiring. Inspect the heating coil for breaks. Then test the voltage across the element (should see the line voltage) and check the resistance at the thermistor (should be ~50000 Ohms in a room temperature environment). If the above are okay, your control board is probably bad.

If you post a comment with the model number, I may be able to point you the appropriate parts. If your dryer is under warranty, contact Frigidaire.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

May 19, 2015 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool 7cycle 4temp dryer won't start. I can hear the timer working, but the start button only vibrates slightly as if there's a partial electric current. Can't even find a model number/...


Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

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Jun 18, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will not heat


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access them by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 23, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer not heating up


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 22, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 110.62822100, I measure 240 VAC from the Wall Plug and 240 VAC on the terminal Block, I also measure power to the Heating element, but still NO HOT Air.


Having proper voltage to the terminal block and heating element is a start. You need to perform resistance checks on your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), Hi-Limit Thermostat and Heating Element with the dryer unplugged to determine the cause of your no heat problem. The following link explains how to troublehshoot a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

NOTE: The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are located on the outside of the heater box. The TCO is mounted at the opposite end of the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals. Both these components should read a short (0 ohms) if good. If either of these components is bad, it is strongly recommended that you replace BOTH at the same time to prevent premature failure. That's why these parts are commnly sold together as a kit.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 29, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer works but will not heat up, can I replace the element myself? kenmore mod: 110 63032101 type: DDOT ELE 2406028-CV54


To answer your question, "yes", replacing a heating element is a simple repair that you should be able to perform yourself. However, the problem may/may not be the heating element. There are several things that can cause a dryer no heat problem.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. Your heating circuits are located on the lower right side of the dryer cabinet under the drum. You will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door to access. The elment is inside the heater box while the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and Hi-Limit Thermstat is located on the outside of the heater box to the left of the element. The TCO is located in the rear, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located near the heating element terminals. NOTE: Make sure the dryer is unplugged while taking any resistance checks. Make sure you disconnect any terminal wires before measuring to ensure accurate readings. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 13, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

Electric model# 110/63022100 KENMORE ELITE dryer turns on yet no heat so clothes don't dry if it's a heating coil where do i locate it or how do i get to it to get it out?


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The first thing you should check is your wall receptacle voltage to ensure you are getting between 220-240 VAC across the HOT leads (LEFT and RIGHT slots). If your input voltage is wrong, the heating circuits will not operate, but the drum still may turn. That's because the drive motor only requires 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is good, check the again at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord is installed. Check across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same 220-240 VAC. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block and wall receptacle, check your circuit breakers. Some installations have two breakers controlling the dryer. If one trips, the dryer may run, but won't heat. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, your problem is internal to the dryer. This may save you the need to open the dryer if you have an external problem.

On your dryer, the heating element is located inside the dryer under the drum on the right hand side.

In most cases the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails before the Heating Element. If the TCO is defective, it is strongly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. These two components are commonly sold as a set and are located on the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Failure to replace both components may result in premature failure of any components you replace.

Make sure you take all resistance readings with the components unplugged to isolate them and prevent parallel resistance paths. If you do determine your heating element to be defective and need to remove it, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jul 08, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer is not working in normal time it us too take to dry now it takes three times the amount of time. was purchased in 9/1999 new whirlpool supreme 7cycle.4temp


Check the following to address this issue.

Note: Normal drying time for a dryer is about 45 minutes (some may take up to an hour).

1. Venting
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

2. Thermostat
There are a couple of cycling thermostats inside the dryer. If one of them breaks down, it might affect the dryer's performance. Replace the defective thermostat.

Jun 24, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer stopped heating. I replaced thermostat and heater element. Did no solve problem. I checked voltage at heater. I have 120 VAC on both sides. When I check total voltage from both sides I have 1 VAC....


YOU HAVE A BAD BREAKER OR A BAD CONNECTION AT THE TERMINAL BLOCK AT THE REAR OF THE DRYER. CHECK VOLTAGE STARTING AT THE TERMINAL BLOCK. IF 240 IS PRESENT THEN PROB IS IN DRYER IF NOT, BAD BREAKER

Apr 07, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

GE dryer. It does not get hot. How do you klnow if it is the thermostat or the heating element?


If your electric dryer doe not heat up, it could be the heating element opened ( meaning no current flow thru it, and no heat), thermostat or an over-temp sense switch tripped. These over temp 'snap type" switches are used as a failsafe to protect against unsafe temperatures as well as to prevent fires. Some of these switches have a reset button on them ( similar to those found on garbage disposers) and you may have to reset it manually to enable power to the heating element. These switches are situated in such a manner that if your vent system is clogged, temperature inside the dryer will exceed the safe limit and trip that switch. If you are reasonably handy and feel confident that you can safely troubleshoot and/or repair one of these components, it should be relatively simple to rule out the heater element as the problem by measuring its resistance with an ohm meter ( Obviously, all testing of this nature should be done wiith power disabled). Heating elements vary in resistance so any value that isn't an open ( meaning no continuity thru it) implies it is probably OK. If it does measure as an open, that is your problem and it needs replacement. Hope that helps...

Aug 07, 2008 | Dryers

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