Have installed switch 3 wires on r/h side have lost photo where they go

Wiring is difficult to see without clear description of each wire inside the box... and more difficult when folks take wiring apart without taking photo of wiring before starting. Then they throw away the old switch,,, so comparison cannot be made to new switch.

That being said:
Did you install a new 3-way switch?
Is it a 3-way switch with 2 brass screws and 1 dark screw and 1 green screw? The dark-colored screw is common screw.

If you installed new 3-way switch, then it is probably wired wrong.
Or there is damage to a wire that is not covered with repair... or both bad wire and wrong wiring.

Look at OLD 3-way switch and identify which screw is the common screw. Should be marked on back of device.
Identify which wire went to common screw on OLD switch.
Look at NEW switch, and identify which is the common screw (dark-colored screw), and then attach OLD common wire to NEW common screw.

Otherwise, put old switch back into box... see if it works... take some photos... attach photos to comment to this thread ... take photo of new switch from back, showing all screws so I can see what is going on.

We can fix it it...and I will be here all evening to assist.

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Add a comment with more information:
1) Brand and model number of fan and remote so expert can access product manual. Without product manual, we're guessing. If product manual has a phone number call it.
2) Attach clear in-focus photo of existing switch with all wires for best possible guess.
3) get a tester and find which wire inside the box is hot. Turn off switch and test each black wire to bare ground wire.

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Copy following link for wiring photo cell:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-and-troubleshoot-photo-eye.html

2) Copy following link for several timer wiring diagrams.
The photo cell is basically a switch, and the timer is also a switch.
2 switches can override each other if both switches are 3-way.
However a photocell is not a 3-way switch, and most timers are not 3-way timers.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Timer-with-remote-control.html#switch

3) If you connect a timer to a NO-NC relay, and also connect photo cell to NO-NC relay, then both timer and photo cell become 3-way switches. Except with a limitation. Neither switch can turn the load OFF when the other switch is ON.

4) Add a comment Feb 2013
What timer do you have?
What voltage?
What load is controlled by timer?

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You posted under T1471BR timer.
This is a 4PST timer
Do not install photo eye on input voltage from breaker box, because that will stop timer clock from operating except nighttime, and then clock time will be off.
The timer clock terminals are A and B, so Connect white neutral to terminal A and black Hot wire to terminal B.
The terminal switch terminals are dry and receive no power when input terminal A and B have power.
Copy following link for illustration showing typical timer wiring.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T1471BR-wiring-500.jpg
Using illustration above: If You want to add photo eye, Remove black wire from terminal 5 to light bulb. Then Connect photo eye black wire to terminal 5, connect photo eye white wire to white wire at light bulb, and connect photo eye red wire to black wire at light bulb.
Copy following link for Intermatic T1400 series product manuals, 3-phase wiring, etc
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html#T1400

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You posted under T1471BR timer.
This is a 4PST timer
Do not install photo eye on input voltage from breaker box, because that will stop timer clock from operating except nighttime, and then clock time will be off.
The timer clock terminals are A and B, so Connect white neutral to terminal A and black Hot wire to terminal B.
The terminal switch terminals are dry and receive no power when input terminal A and B have power.
Copy following link for illustration showing typical timer wiring.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T1471BR-wiring-500.jpg
Using illustration above: If You want to add photo eye, Remove black wire from terminal 5 to light bulb. Then Connect photo eye black wire to terminal 5, connect photo eye white wire to white wire at light bulb, and connect photo eye red wire to black wire at light bulb.
Copy following link for Intermatic T1400 series product manuals, 3-phase wiring, etc
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html#T1400

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

To wire up an HID kit on the low beams of your Mazda 3 2005, you will need 3-4 things:
1- HID kit (bulbs and ballasts)
2- HID relay (connects your hid kit to your battery)
3- 4700uF capacitor (solves DRL flickering issue)
4- H7 hid bulb adaptor (you can also use the rubber piece that holds the bulb wires as a spacer)


Wiring diagram:
http://www.carsets.co.uk/upload/temp/images/hid-light-installation-photo-display.jpg

Tips on How to wire up:
1. HID bulb's amp wires connects with the ballast's amp wires. (There's only one way to connect them.)
2. The positive and the negative spade connectors from the hid relay connect with your vehicle's low beam connector, closest to your battery: the driver side. The passenger side low beam connector is not used and should be insulated. You can use electric tape.)
3. Each ballast is connected to one of the relay's clip connector, and it's grounded on each side to your vehicle's body. (One connector for each ballast, one for each side. You can use the screw for the body as a ground.)
4. The red wire(with the inline fuse) in the relay connects to your battery's positive terminal.
5. The capacitor sits on the relay switch. (Google for how to wire the capacitor onto the hid relay switch.) dynoxg image
6. The halogen bulb sits on an adapter. You can safely remove them from each other, and use an H7 hid adapter instead.

For more help: Moonlight Driving

Ledio, I am unable to access specific photos on Picassa
https://plus.google.com/106982528064073343888/posts

I have downloaded instruction manual for 1755 rocker switch
This is ordinary triple-rocker-switch to control 3 different loads.
It is like having 3 single pole switches and each switch controls a separate light (Load)
This is single pole switch for 120Volt, and not suited necessarily for 240Volt loads.
Switch is not for 3-way application as typically found in hallway where 2 switches control same light.

1) You have 4 wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test.
There are 4 types of wires in 120Volt and 240V household wiring: Hot wire, Neutral wire, Load wire, and ground wire.
Load wire means the wire that connects to switch and goes to Light, fan, motor (load)
Hot wire always connects to one side of switch.
Neutral never connects to switch.
Load wires connect to side of switch opposite Hot wire.
Bare copper ground wire connects to any green ground screw.

2) One-and-only-one wire in each 120Volt electrical box is Hot. (assuming you are not replacing
3-way switch or working with 240V)

3) Separate all 4 wires for testing. Tape tester leads to wood sticks. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester will light up on Hot wire.

4) Hot is identified. Next, find the neutral wire if it is among the 4 wires.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on neutral wire.
Tester will not light up on Load wires.

5) NOT EVERY switch box has a neutral. Or the neutral wires can be twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
The neutral may be up in the light fixture. Neutral located in ceiling box is typical with bathroom fan-light-heater combos.
If neutral is not one of the 4 wires, then don't worry about the neutral connection because it will already be wired together.

6) Image of 1755 switch shows 1 screw terminal on the Hot side, so connect Hot wire to this single screw.
Other side of switch has 3 screws for connecting each of 3 Load wires.
Note: Neutral wire is NEVER connected to a switch.
http://www.frostelectric.com/WOE-IMAGES/00381764.jpg

7) Since I cannot see wiring project or know what loads or how the testing comes out, I suggest connect the Hot wire to single screw terminal.
And then connect 1 of the other wires to other side of switch. Not a neutral.
Turn power ON, and try switch.
Process of elimination might yield result.

8) Add a comment with more question, and it sends e-mail. I will respond.
More resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-double-rocker-s.jpg

Woods 58018 is White-colored 120Volt 7-day programmable timer that replaces single-pole switch only.
I am not certain what is meant by 3-pole circuit.
If you mean 3-way circuit where more than one switch control same light, as you find with hallway light, then 59018 is not correct timer.

Open following links to see list of timers suited for 3-way switch replacement.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#59028
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15312
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

Timers that work for 3-way do not replace 3-way switch wire-for-wire.
Read manual carefully.
When you replace 3-way switch with a timer, one 3-way switch is replaced, and other 3-way switch remains.
The remaining 3-way switch is always rewired so the 3-way timer works. AND each brand of timer requires slightly different wiring parameter.
Some 3-way timers can only replace the 3-way switch located closest to circuit breaker box, commonly called the LINE side. Others can replace either LINE side or LOAD side 3-way., and wiring is different for each. Some timers require neutral wire and some are battery-powered.

Add a comment with exact information about switch and wiring you are working on for suggestion of best timer for that purpose.

From cabinet you have three wires. 2 Orange,and 1, Black
1 Orange goes to on side of run capacitor the other Orange goes to the (2) R on the relay. The Black goes to the overload (round black disk). 1 White wire connector on end goes to run capacitor the other end connects to the (1) S on the relay.
The run capacitor is a small black cube like device with two prongs.

When installing a digital timer switch into a 3-way lighting circuit, you typically have to install a jumper wire across the "travelers" on the 3-way switch at the other end of the circuit, in order to get the timer to function.

If you have an Intermatic brand timer, the jumper is included with the timer switch, usually it will be a small, about 2-3 inches long wire with fork terminals on each end.

You should have the power turned off before installing the jumper. Also, there is a distance limit (75-80 feet of wiring) as to how far apart the two (2) switches can be from one another, in order for the timer to work (with the installed jumper).

Normally, the travelers are one the same side of a 3-way switch, but you can use a voltage detector to confirm which wires are which (prior to turning off the power) to make installing the jumper easier. If you contact the manufacturer of your particular timer, they can email you a owners guide/installation pamphlet that shows the proper installation procedures for your timer switch.

If you have an Intermatic product, you can use the link below to contact them for the needed info.

http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers.aspx

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!