Question about Kenmore 19233 Computerized Sewing Machine

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Motor works but weel and needle will not move

I pill my machine out after hours of cutting patterns and pieces and ironing to get my project sewn together , only to find out that for some god awful reason my machine wont work the motor makes a sound and tries to go , cant turn the hand wheel, and the needle wont go up and down , so i pulled the cover off to see if by some chance any thing was wrong i can see and to no avail help please i use my machine for a living and have a dead line!

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I am having the same problem. And need my machine to make a living.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I am trying to cut out the quilt for pattern and 3795 and I'm confused why I need to put price 2 on the fold line


Cannot see the pattern you are describing, but there is a very good reason why you need to double the fabric.

Because that piece needs to be doubled. If you cut out only one piece, you would only have half of what is needed. If you cut 2 separate pieces, that means you would have to sew a seam down the middle (plus, once you've sewn a seam, that particular piece will be too small since you reduced the size by taking two seams-width out of it).

By way of example, look at the back of your blouse. It is one solid piece from underarm to the other underarm. One side is the mirror image of the other side, with the centerline down the middle of your back. The pattern companies save paper by giving you only half the pattern, and you accomplish making a full piece by placing the pattern's center line on the fold of the fabric. When you've cut out the fabric and open it up, you have one "complete" piece.

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Our church has just been given a second hand Juki dl 5550 and in our first project, finishing an embroidered rug, it got stuck. It seems that the engine locked up. The needle is mid way in/out and not


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I do really need to buy a stretch needle


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The thread from the needle keeps breaking


rethread the machine
check the top tension-try 3 or 4
change needle & make sure the needle is inserted correctly

some time the needle & thread don't work togeather--try this
Cut 6-8 inch piece of thread of the spool you are going to use for your project
Take the needle you are going to use for the project
& insert the thread thru the eye of the needle
& lift one end of the thread to a 45 degree angle
& if the needle is the right size for the thread it will slide down the thread
But if the needle hangs on the thread you need one size larger needle for the thread

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Ce 5000 prw - upper thread bunching up on underside (lower thread ok), all stitches coming out strait or partial pattern then strait


try changing the needle
also check the top thread tension
check for lint under needle plate
some needles & thread aren't compatable--try this
Cut 6-8 inch piece of thread of the spool you are going to use for your project
Take the needle you are going to use for the project
& insert the thread thru the eye of the needle
& lift one end of the thread to a 45 degree angle
& if the needle is the right size for the thread it will slide down the thread
But if the needle hangs on the thread you need one size larger needle for the thread

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The thread jams up on the bottom of fabric being sewn


make sure it is not the tension setting, a bad needle or the machine may be in bar tack position most likely it is the needle changing needles is almost necessary when ever you change projects they wear get burred and get bent easily

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Underthread Going Crazy


Hi PixelPup....Although I am unaware of what types of fabrics/needle size/project (ie does it have batting or metallic/special threads) your issue involves a fault located above your needle plate with 2 points of interest in particular. 1) Appropriate Needle Size, Type and Insertion. 2) Absence of upper tension. When replacing needles, ensure that the groove along the length of the needle is facing you. For every day medium weight cottons, a universal size 70 or 80 needle is fine. However, ALL OTHER fabrics, especially knits, denims, stretch and very lightweight or sheer fabrics should be sewn with the specified needle types. Your local sewing retailer can help you with exactness if you bring along a swatch/sample when you shop for your needles. Please purchase your sewing machine supplies from a sewing oriented retailer. Needles AND Thread quality matter a great deal in the quality and longevity of your stitches. As for needles, I recommend Schmetz, and Viking for threads. Keep in mind that needles to get dull, and can easily acquire brays which may not only cut your thread, but damage your fabrics as well, and should be changed "regularly". I would guess that misthreading accounts for 95% of all sewing machine problems including lockups, needle breakage, and instant jams. The dial for your upper tension may have a "colored zone" for the universal tensioning starting point usually between 3.5 & 5.5, with the lower number for lighter fabrics, and increasing with weight. If you don't have a colored zone, begin with #4. Completely remove the thread spool from your machine. Ensure that your presser foot is in the up position, and begin methodically threading your machine, paying special attention when you reach the tension area. There are usually 3 or 4 'plates' that provide the tension, and rushed threading by experts regularly causes the thread to miss the discs altogether. The presser foot must be in the raised position, which releases the pressure on the tension discs enabling your thread to slide in. Why not be proactive and remove and rethread your bobbin as well, ensuring that your bobbin thread receives tension from the flat spring on your bobbin case. Unless I have misunderstood your issue, your problems should now be solved......good luck my friend.

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