Question about Hoover Vacuums
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hoover Steam Vac Model F5826-900
When you put the lid on the recovery tank, you have to be sure that the front of the lid is properly engaged into the two tabs on the top of the tank. With the lid installed, if you can lift the front of the lid off the tank with two fingers, then the lid is not on correctly. Also, make sure the square duct that goes into the front of the tank is in place. You have to remove this duct to install the hose for doing furniture but must replace it to go back to the floor function. By the way, the "blowing air" you refer to is normal. This is exhaust air from the motor and it is used to propel the solution onto the carpet.
Posted on Feb 19, 2008
There is no reset button, but some of those old switches are very touchy . . . if there was some
corrosion, you may not have a good contact (was enough of the new wire insulation stripped away, before putting it into the switch) . . .
I prefer splicing, rather than going all the way to the switch . . its just a matter of cutting out the old cord and splicing in the new cord in a convenient spot up in the motor compartment. . . a Rainbow purist would run the new cord all the way up into the power on/off rocker switch that's built into the top of the handle and then wire the new cord in there, directly at the switch . . . that way means no splicing . . . I've done it both ways, but I prefer to splice and use wire connectors inside the motor compartment . . . because going further, all the way up directly into the on/off switch just to avoid splicing the new cord in requires taking more things apart . . . and risks screwing up the power switch . . . that's not worth the extra time and trouble, IMHO. (This from someone who has dismantled and refurbished over 200 D4C and SE models)
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.
You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.
First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).
The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.
Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.
Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.
Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.
Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.
This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".
There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.
On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.
Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.
The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.
You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.
The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.
At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.
Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.
Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.
Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.
Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.
Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.
Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.
Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.
Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.
Posted on May 27, 2009
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