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The handle of my Hoover Model UH30010 vacuum broke, replacement handle power light blinks and vac does not run. Vac runs with old handle.

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Hoover Steam Vac Model F5826-900

When you put the lid on the recovery tank, you have to be sure that the front of the lid is properly engaged into the two tabs on the top of the tank. With the lid installed, if you can lift the front of the lid off the tank with two fingers, then the lid is not on correctly. Also, make sure the square duct that goes into the front of the tank is in place. You have to remove this duct to install the hose for doing furniture but must replace it to go back to the floor function. By the way, the "blowing air" you refer to is normal. This is exhaust air from the motor and it is used to propel the solution onto the carpet.

Posted on Feb 19, 2008

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SOURCE: HOOVER STEAM VAC SPIN SCRUB

Cannot hook the upholstery cleaner into slot..lost manual in fire

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a d4c rainbow vacuum, need help replacing the electrical cord

There is no reset button, but some of those old switches are very touchy . . . if there was some  corrosion, you may not have a good contact (was enough of the new wire insulation stripped away, before putting it into the switch) . . . 
I prefer splicing, rather than going all the way to the switch  . . its just a matter of cutting out the old cord and splicing in the new cord in a convenient spot up in the motor compartment. . . a Rainbow purist would run the new cord all the way up into the power on/off rocker switch that's built into the top of the handle and then wire the new cord in there, directly at the switch . . . that way means no splicing . . . I've done it both ways, but I prefer to splice and use wire connectors inside the motor compartment . . . because going further, all the way up directly into the on/off switch just to avoid splicing the new cord in requires taking more things apart . . . and risks screwing up the power switch . . . that's not worth the extra time and trouble, IMHO.  (This from someone who has dismantled and refurbished over 200 D4C and SE models)

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks. bushteachers@yahoo.com

The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: dyson 28 handle is stuck in the locked and upright

how do you remove the air duct (plastic sliding piece) that is making the vacuum stay in locked upright p[position?

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

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2 Answers

Install upper control rod


Hi, it's Jeremy from Crucial Vacuum.

To attach the upper handle to your Hoover Steam Vac remove the clean solution tank (upper tank) from the deep cleaner. Then, attach the upper handle to the lower handle by pushing the upper handle down onto lower one. Use the provided bolts to secure the handles. Push the bolts into the accompanying holes on the front of handle. If the bolts do not go through the holes easily, your handle is not pushed completely down. When the handle sections are completely together, squeeze the trigger on the upper handle to snap the trigger rod into place.

If you require further help with your assembly, you can find a step-by-step manual at: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/f5865900-hoover-parts-steam+vac-manual

You can also purchase all of your Hoover Steam Vac replacement parts from Crucial Vacuum with free shipping and an exclusive 10% coupon for Fixya.com readers, use code: FIXYA10

http://www.crucialvacuum.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=hoover+steam+vac

I hope this was helpful. If you would like further assistance, please feel free to give us a call at 877.750.9239. We have helpful and friendly customer care representatives on the line ready to assist you.

Jeremy Lerner
Crucial Vacuum Customer Care
http://www.crucialvacuum.com

Jun 10, 2014 | Vacuums

1 Answer

I replaced the handle on my Hoover UH30010 Platinum Bagged upright and now the check bag light is on and vac will nut run.. Is there a reset button? How do I fix this?


Hey. I believe you will need to replace the main PCB board too. My new handle was sent with a new PCB board. However, I tried just replacing the handle first and it acted the same way you describe. Once I changed the PCB board it worked fine. Hope this helps.

May 25, 2012 | Hoover Ultra U6430-900 WindTunnel Bagged...

1 Answer

Hoover vaccum u6434-900 switch replace


2 screws remove the handle. 3 screws in the holder for the hand-held beater, and then you can see to the power switch (black with read on/off switch and two copper leads).

Remove the wire clips. Find some safe way to connect the two wire and plug in/out the vac quickly to see if the motor runs. If so, then the switch is bad. Squeeze the ends and push it through to remove.

I found a cheap replacement online from. http://www.vacpartswarehouse.com/Hoover-On-Off-Switch-p/28161075.htm

I'm not associated with them, I just found them quickly and the part quickly.

I love the vac, so it's worth a few buck to fix it.

Nov 02, 2011 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

1 Answer

I own a hoover steam vac model # F5915900 inside the recovery tank the seal broke. Where can I buy a new rubber seal?


Here is the webpage for vac parts warehouse. This shows a diagram of your steam vac. You pick the part and buy it.

Hope this helps.

Handie Andie

Mar 25, 2011 | Hoover Steam Vac Dual V w/ SpinScrub...

2 Answers

Hoover windtunnel dirt finder light stays red. We've cleaned the elbow the roller the hose and have a clean bag. The vacuum is new only had it for 3 months.


I'm not sure about a 3 month old vac, I'd probably go the warranty route. However, for the older vacs thy start getting false positives. The sensor is simply a microphone hooked to a computer chip detecting sounds of dirt entering the bag.
To rig it to start working, you'll need to remove the tool accessory tray and elbow that enters the back of the vac, and attached to the bag. This will reveal the microphone at the elbow, and wire that runs into the bottom area of the vac. When on, a large amount of air comes from the bottom screw and area where the wires enter. My fix was to clean up the microphone contact points a little bit with a screwdriver, and then leave the vac running while putting in dampering in the hole at the bottom, and around the back of the elbow. Cotton balls and electrical tape at the bottom hole, and napkins around the outside of the elbow (wedged between the back of the vac assembly and elbow did the trick). The schematic for the vac is here: http<colon>//www<dot>vacsrus<dot>com/CartGenie/pg_U6485900<dot>asp
Look for micrphone.

May 12, 2010 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

1 Answer

Remove & replace handle release lever on hoover model U6445, s/n 039900015686


From under the vacuum, there is a tab release that you need to pry out the old part. At this point, based on your serial nuimber, your vac is over 10 years old and may also need the base. The bracket is part of the base and not expensive, but the replacement is involved. Once the vac is disassembled, other things may need to be replaced.

Apr 19, 2010 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Hoover steam vac leak from the bottom when tank has water in it when not running but tank is not leaking


The tank is not sealing to the black rubber ring seal on the lower handle. make sure this seal is not displaced.

Nov 19, 2009 | Hoover Steam Vac Dual V w/ SpinScrub...

3 Answers

Manual for model f5853-900


I need a mnual for the Hoover Steam Vac Model F5853

Jun 25, 2008 | Hoover SteamVac Carpet/Upholstery Deep...

2 Answers

Model number U5763900 Serial Number 090400013588 Handle broke off just above the four screws that attach it ti the boby of the vac. Hoover does not list parts for models that are more than two years old....


http://geeksquad.fixya.com/ThreadView.aspx?prdid=0&thid=658103
Generic problem for all Vacuums
Model number U5763900 Serial
Posted by rlholif on Jun 09, 2008
Model number U5763-900 Serial Number 090400013588
Handle broke off just above the four screws that attach it to the body of the vac. Hoover does not list parts for models that are more than two years old. The vac operates perfectly but without a handle my wife cannot use it, where can I find a part replacement. Easy to remove four screws and replace. Don’t want to drive 100 or more miles to find an authorized repair shop. Oh yes, this is a Hoover Preferred Wind Tunnel Bagless



Hello,
I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure. You have all the information needed but I would contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer and they may have a good used one or they may stock a new handle for your you or they can ship you one If you live too far from a factory authorized dealer. The vac shop that I worked in always had good used parts for ½ the price and it worked just fine – the only difference was the color and for the handle that would not make a difference in the performance and your wife could use the vacuum again. Also Hoover can ship the part to you providing they have it in stock. So if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions.

http://www.hoover.com Telephone
Contact our Customer Service Department at 1.330.499.9499
Monday through Friday
8 a.m. - 7 p.m. EST

Thanks, Don the Vac Man
Go Ahead. Use Us.

Jun 09, 2008 | Vacuums

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