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Cant get the factory original blade off my miter saw...any ideas???

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Yes...Not sure about your brand of saw, but many come with a device to lock the spindle from turning, if you have one...refer to your owners manual. If your saw does not have this device, try this: with the saw unplugged, press the blade down firmly into a soft piece of pine wood while turning out bolt. Do same in reverse of course to install new blade.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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I have a Craftsman 10" table saw model number: 137.248830. The saw doesn't make square cuts, it is more of a problem when using the miter. I have followed the alignment procedure so that the right...


I assume that your alignment procedure is about adjusting your miter gage. But you should first verify if the blade is parallel to the miter slot (the slot the miter gage slides in). This is adjustable underneath the saw, and sometimes comes crooked from the factory or comes loose later on. To check if the blade is parallel to the miter slot you can do this.....1. unplug the saw. 2. Raise the blade as far as it will go. 3. Clamp a piece of wood to your miter gage so that it just touches the blade as close to the front of the saw as possible. 4. Use a marker and mark that spot on the blade. 5. Now slide the miter toward the back of the saw, and rotate the blade by hand so that your piece of wood hits the same spot as where you checked in the front. You can see a large misalignment by eye. But you can get a little precise by using a piece of paper between the wood and the blade as a feeler gage. Or better yet, use a drop indicator instead of the piece of wood and you can measure the difference. If this isn't as close to parallel as you are able to measure it, you need to turn the saw over and find the bolts that attach the whole assembly under there to the table top. Once you have this in alignment, you should be able to set your miter to be square against any good square. If you don't have a high quality square, you can go to a tool store (Sears or whoever) with your miter gage in hand, and set it to be square against their most expensive square. If the square is square, and the blade is parallel to the slot and it still won't cut square you either have a bad blade or there is too much play in the saw's arbor. Try to wiggle the blade side-to-side - any wiggle at all is too much.

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I'd say it was the new wiring that was reversed. Motors cant really start reversing themselves on their own and the only other way it would seem reversed is if the blade was put on backwards...

So yes I think you have the wires reversed when you re-wired the cord.

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It should still easily fit a 5/8" blade. The arbor shape shouldnt have any effect on the type of arbor hole needed on the saw blade (only round arbor holes are made on saw blades. You will probably find the arbor securing nut has a shape that fits into the flat gaps between the saw blade and the arbor when fixed. So grab a 5/8" round arbor saw blade and give it a go. It should work fine.
It is the arbor nut that secures the blade onto the arbor via friction which holds it on.

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I completely removed the blade and put it back on, tightening the locknut, and now it works perfectly. The blade has not come loose and have used the machine for the last 3 months. The only thing I can think of is that somehow I didn't have the blade correctly installed in the first place, although it didn't wobble or anything.

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Lift the guard up and you will see a nut holding the blade. You should not have to remove guard to change blade. Make sure unit is unplugged before working on it.

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