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I have a 5 year old honda 225 outboard that for the first time produced a lot of sludge in the engine oil. I change the oil every 100 hours or so, run it about 4000 rpm and tend to take good care of it. I only run it in the cold waters of NW WAshington state for the months of August and September. I don't change the oil when I put it away for the winter but ALWAYS change it before starting up the next season no matter how many hours are on the engine Right now it has about 670 hours on it.What happened and should I be concerned?

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This cased buy winterizing and is normal if you did not dewinterize flush the fuel syt out

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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You should always change your oil before you put it away. Your owner's manual goes through detailed instructions for storage. Since you are boating in cold water, it is possible that one or both of your thermostats could be not functioning correctly and not permitting the engine get to operating temperature. It may be worth checking the thermostats.

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

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2007 Honda 225 4 stroke outboard randomly misses between 2500 & 2900 rpm.


The first and easiest thing to do is replace the spark plugs and gap them. After that is it a guessing game for electrics or fuel delivery. My advice for marine engines is always professional service as the consequences of breaking down on the water are always a problem. The engine is only 10 years old so it probably has onboard diagnostics. The engineer connects it to a computer and it tells him what is wrong.

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1993 Suzuki 4hp 100.1 how much oil per gallon


the manual shows for a 100 :1 mix the ratio is 4 ounces of oil to 3 gallons of fuel
there are two engines and one is 50: 1 ratio so that would be 8 ounces of oil to 3 gallons of fuel
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I have a 40hp four stroke about 6 years old. It has sailed about 100 hours. The motor strarts and is running fine to about 2000 rpm. Between rpm 2000 and 3000 the engine is running badly. I'll be grateful...


Change the oil seal at the top and bottom engine and service or rebuilt your carb. Clean-up all electronic gear under the engine flywheel maybe its wet by the oil mixed.

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Oil pressure low light, how do you change the oil pump or clean the pickup tube on a 2001 vw passat?


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When I start my 10hp mercury outboard after priming it will run for a few seconds and then die. IF I push the throttle only button and rev it up before priming or set the low idle up higher and then prime...


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1 Answer

Car does accelerate that well when you give it gas..also like a burning electrical smell the check engine light is on.


The check engine light and lack of acceleration may be due to a defective solenoid that controls the camshaft that advances or retards the valve timing (thereby physically causing an earlier or later opening and closing of the valves) on either the left or right bank of the engine. One bank will malfinction at a time and the solenoid that Nissan uses is not of the quality of Honda's V-TEC or Toyota's VVT engines. We had the same symptom on our 2001 Pathy with the same engine.

Have Autozone read you the codes (for free!) that the system is reporting and the codes, when looked up, will tell you which side is malfunctioning. The smell of something "electrical " may be due to the solenoid burning out, its wiring shorting out, or the smell of engine oil sludge that may have built up over time under the relevant valve cover due to heat and that heat possibly causing the solenoid to burn out, as well as cooking and eventually damaging the valves. The Pathy 3.5 V6's are high output motors and they get pretty hot pushing a 4,400lb Pathfinder around. The manual calls for plain old mineral (Dinosaur) oil which begins to break down due to heat on the day it is put in. If not changed out under the ridiculously short oil change interval recommended, sludge will build up and fresh dinosaur oil does not have the chemical strength necessary to remove it.

Recommend that if you find my educated guess as to what the problem is to be correct, that you make your next oil change using Shell Rotella 5W-40 synthetic with a new Purolator Pure One oil filter. Keep the oil system topped off. After six months of cleaning with the superior "diesel" detergent package, which can remove sludge, replace the oil with fresh 5W-40 Rotella Synthetic again and another new filter, or switch to Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck. You could also use Mobil 1 5W-30 Truck & SUV for gasoline engines but the detergent package is not nearly as capable and if the system is sludged, you will need more than one oil change to remove the majority of it. If sludged and cleaning is not done, the engine will be ruined in another couple of years.

Nissan's oil recommendations are old school obsolete and stupid. Synthetics is the way to go because they are superior lubricants, have superior resistance to heat, do not sludge up an engine because they do not contain parrafin (wax) and also allow the oil changes to made every 15,000 miles or once a year with a quality filter changeover done at the same time.

Our 2001 was sludged and that is what caused the solenoid to burn out. The dealer attributed the failure to the sludge. I attributed the sludge to the dealer's inferior selection of oil (only place we took it) but the Nissan spec calls for that inferior oil that cooks inside the engine and the expectation is for the owner to have the oil changed very, very frequently to combat the effect. Big $$$.

After we paid the $550 to replace the solenoid on one bank of the engine (it was 2005 and the Pathy was out of warranty), I make all oil changes myself and I use pure synthetics, changing the synthetic oil and filter once a year. It is much cheaper than going to the dealer and we haven't had a mechanical or electrical failure since this solo instance.

The 3.5L V-6 in the Pathfinder pulls a lot more weight than the 350Z sport car. Both should require synthetic oil, not mineral oil and both should have oversized 7-8 qt pans (like Audi and BMW) to give the oil a chance to cool off and provide a margin of error for when the system is not topped off. Just as Nissan did with its On Board Diagnostic system (OBD), it made specifications that assures the dealers with an income for "service" and assures Nissan of an excuse if there is a premature failure under warranty.

Take charge of your car's maintenance and assure that it no longer gets inferior lubricants that require an oil change interval that you have difficulty meeting. Use synthetics and extend the oil change interval to a more reasonable frequency. You will save the engine and money making these changes. Good Luck.

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2 Answers

Bmw 323 'r' reg e36 engine oil light flashing


your oil pressure switch is a great place to start. since the oil was really thick you could have a horrible oil sludge problem. about 50-100 miles before your next oil change take a bottle of Transmission Fluid and dump in with your oil. and Drive for the remaning 50-100 miles with the Trany fluid still in the oil. The Transmission Fluid is a great Cleaner for sludge.
hope this helped you

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1997 Toyota Camry with second round of engine sludge


The best way to solve the sludge problem is to drive the car! If you drive a few miles then shut it off that advances sludge issues. Make sure you get it fully warmed up. Toyota sent me the notice on the sludge issue in 1998. I have 327,000 miles on my Camry now. When I drive it I get it fully warmed up, and most days I put on at least 20 miles. I change oil every 4-5000 miles. These are great cars.
I never changed any of the common parts that fail on most American cars before 100,00 miles. Such as O2 sensors, alternator, starter, cv joints, all original still.

Vince Salmela

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