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I was replacing my screen on the SD800IS.

I was replacing my screen on the canon SD800IS.
i originally got a white screen indicating the ribbon cable wasn;t in properly. i reseated the ribbon cable and turned the cam,era on again and now it's dead. No lights on anywhere. i've tried charging the batteries and running of a USB cable and get no lights. Any ideas?

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Sounds like you need to also reseat the skinny ribbon cable. Believe this is the one that provides power to the backlight:

Posted on Jul 29, 2009


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I have a Sportsart 1050l give's error 1?

Replacement Parts for Fitness Exercise Equipment at SPORTSMITH

ERR1 Definition: The display board CPU didn't receive the optic sensor signal. • Explanation: After processing by the drive board, the optic sensor signal travels the 16-pin cable to the display board CPU, which determines motor speed. Components involved include the optic sensor, optic sensor wheel, 16-pin cable, drive board, display board, and connections.

ERR1 Condition: Press speed key; walk belt doesn't move; ERR1 appears. 1. Drive Board a) Inspect drive board components for signs of damage, like bulging, burnt or cracked spots. b) Inspect connections to the drive board, including the ribbon cable (at the display and drive boards), drive motor, incline motor, etc. loose connections are a common cause of ERR1. c) Check the drive board lED Turn on the unit. The should be lit. The EMG indicator should light up and then extinguish after the unit powers up. A lingering EMG light indicates drive circuit trouble, but it can also light up if drive board connections to motors and other components aren't secure. d) Test whether the drive board is sending power to the motor. Put the muttimeter to the DC setting. Disconnect the motor M+M- wires from the drive board. Place probes on the drive board M+ M- terminals. Put the treadmill safety key in place; turn on the power; walk on the treadmill so that the ClK lED lights (this preempts the display from detecting no optic sensor signaling and immediately giving you an ERR1 message, thus allowing you to get a power reading); press the speed up key. The meter should show some voltage. If there's no voltage, inspect the ribbon cable and display board. If they appear OK, suspect the drive board. e) Test drive board components for a short. See Components in the Basic Electronics. 2. Ribbon Cable a) Check the ribbon cable and its connections. Link a spare cable from the drive board to the display board, outside the unit. Test the unit. If it works with the spare cable, replace the original cable. b) Or, if you don't have a spare ribbon cable, test ribbon cable continuity. Wrap solder wire around each probe so you can insert probes into the ribbon cable connector, testing one wire at a time for continuity. 3. Display Board a) Press down on the display board ICs. If you have a working unit of the same kind, swap the display board onto this unit. Test. If all works well and no ERR message appears, replace the original display board. a) Reed Switch (Applies to models with magnetic safety keys only.) Put the safety key in place over the reed switch. Put the meter to the 200 Ohm setting. Place probes on both ends of the reed switch. Meter should show 0 Ohm. If the meter doesn't get a reading, replace the reed switch. 4. Treadmill Motor a) Rotate the motor. It should rotate smoothly. Grinding or sticking indicates wear. b) Check the motor brushes. Uneven wear indicates worn brushes. Minimum brush length: 1/2 inch. Turn the brushes around and reinsert them. Rotate the flywheel. If the motor grinds or sticks, put brushes back in their original position. c) Check motor resistance: Turn off unit. Disconnect the motor M+ M- cables from the drive board. Put multimeter setting to Ohms. Place probes into the motor wire M+ M- ends. Normal reading: 1 Ohm. Move the flywheel slightly and take another reading. Take a few readings, moving the flywheel slightly after each. Readings should be consistent. If the meter shows OL at any test point, replace the motor. 5. Transformer a) Put the meter to the AC setting. Place the meter probes on the transformer output wire connectors on the drive board. Turn on the unit. There should be output voltage. If not, replace the transformer. • 11XX/12XX brown-brown: 10.5VAC • 31 XXl32XXl61 XXl62XX white-white: 12.5 VAC • 6005 yellow-yellow: 11.0 VAC If ERR1 is not resolved, see ERR1 with walk belt movement. • • • • ERR1 Condition: Press speed key; walk belt moves; ERR1 appears. 1. Tachometer Wheel Make sure the tachometer wheel: a) Rotates in the middle of the optic sensor. b) Is clean and free of cobwebs and dust. c) Doesn't have broken or bent teeth. d) Is fastened securely on the motor bracket If the wheel has visible damage, replace it. 2. Optic Sensor Make sure that the optic sensor signal is getting to the drive board. a) With power on, turn the drive motor. The CLK indicator (an lED on the drive board) should light. This means that the optic sensor signal is reaching the drive board. If the ClK indicator doesn't light, replace the optic sensor. b) Push the treadmill belt while pushing speed up key. If ERR1 doesn't appear until you stop pushing the belt, and the display speed values increase, then the optic sensor is good. (On units without a ClK indicator, check optic sensor output voltage: (a) put probes on optic sensor output (b) turn the motor (c) if voltage doesn't vary, replace the optic sensor.) 3. Ribbon Cable a) Check the ribbon cable and its connections. Link a spare cable from the drive board to the display board, outside the unit. Test the unit. If it works with the spare cable, replace the original cable. b) Or, if you don't have a spare ribbon cable, test ribbon cable continuity. Wrap solder wire around each probe so you can insert probes into the ribbon cable connector, testing one wire at a time for continuity. 4. Drive Board Check whether drive board components are burnt or cracked. Check component connections. A drive board power component short usually results in a huge burst of power, making the walk belt speed dangerously, before ERR1 appears. If the walk belt moves before ERR1 appears, but not very, very fast, suspect the optic sensor. 5. Treadmill Motor a) Rotate the motor. It should rotate smoothly. Grinding or sticking indicates wear. b) Check motor resistance. Turn off unit. Disconnect the motor M+ M- cables from the drive board. Put multimeter setting to Ohms. Place probes into the motor cable M+ M- ends. Normal reading: 1-2 Ohm. If there's no reading (OL), replace the motor. c) Check the motor brushes. Uneven wear indicates worn brushes. Minimum brush length: 1/2 inch. Turn brushes around and reinsert them; rotate the flywheel by hand. If it rotates worse than before, put brushes back in their original position. d) High amp draw can indicate a bad motor. Other factors would be a worn walk belt and deck. Run unit power through a current meter. Tum on the unit. Normal amp draw at 3 MPH with no load on the walk belt is 1/2 to 1 Amp. 6. Display Board ICs Make sure that IC contacts on the display board are good. Press firmly on the ICs. Make sure you have the latest CPU version. If ERR1 is not resolved, see ERR1 no walk belt movement.

Treadmill Parts for SportsArt Belts Motor Brushes SPORTSMITH net

Sep 15, 2013 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

SD870 encountered water. Screen is now white. Does the screen need to be replaced or electronic components?

I know that when you take the ribbon cable off the LCD screen, and power the camera up, the screen is just white. It's probably that cable that came lose, or is not properly connecting. A good cleaning on the cable (behind the LCD screen) would fix it.

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White Screen Issues on Toshiba M115-S1061

connections could be good in ribbon cable
but still needs to be replaced

the white screen indicates that the inverter is still good
if the laptop works with desktop monitor, then video card is good
if you tap the lid to the lcd and it goes on and off ,ribbon cable for sure,
everytime you open and close the screen , it tugs on the ribbon cable also , only tape holding this in place

Jul 19, 2009 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

SD400 LCD Screen White after Replacement

There are a number of possible common faults that can cause the screen problem that you are describing.

It is possible that the new replacement screen is defective, or there is a defect in the ribbon cable, or the sockets are not making proper contact, or there is a cold solder connection at the socket or on the circuit board, or the driver circuits on the circuit board have a failure.

The service tech would try another screen, or ribbon cable (if changeable), or the circuit board to locate the defect. Once he finds the defective board, he will leave in the new replacement.

These cameras are serviced by modular approach.

Jerry G.

Jan 08, 2009 | Canon PowerShot SD400 / IXUS 50 Digital...

1 Answer

Sd800 new lcd, displays all white

Sounds like the LCD ribbon cable is not seated properly in the connector. Did you unlock the cable before disconnecting the old one and then lock down the new one? Try taking it apart and putting it back in again.

Is there any damage to the ribbon cable or the gold contacts at the end of the cable? If so, the LCD is ruined and not useable.

If you like we offer an LCD installation for only $25 if you already have the LCD. Google search "digital camera parts", we are first on the list: Darntoothysam com

If we can help please let us know!

Thomas D.
Owner, Darntoothysam com

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Canon ixus i7. LCD screen is cracked, and thus does not sdisplay any image, however the camera still zooms, takes pictures, etc Obviously now viewfinder so only way to see what your taking pic of is...

I know some canon LCDs can be replaced by the user. Canon will sell you the specific part or you can find them on ebay. The LCD ribbon cable can be easily pulled out and with a little fiddling a new one can be put in. I have not personally done it with at ixus i7. When I did it it cost like $45. Goodluck!

here are some photos of the process for a canon SD. I know the i7 might be a little different.
canon lcd replacement images.

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unfortunately since the problem is on the hardware (lcd screen), there is no way of fixing it except from the people of the service center. 

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Wierd colours on LCD screen.

Check LCD ribbon cable. 99% LCD ribbon cable is defective. Replace LCD ribbon cable.

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SD400 broken screen

found this guide on the net once, try it out and let us know what you think: " WARNING: this repair voids your warranty and may damage your camera. Perform at your own risk. The publisher of this site is not responsible for any damage you cause. This replacement is of medium difficulty. If you have ever ?built? a computer from parts, you are probably capable of it. If you are patient, orderly, and meticulous, you can probably do it. But you do risk breaking your camera even further, so don?t do it if you won?t accept that risk! Be carefully that you are grounded and thus do not harm the camera via static discharge. Google the terms ?grounding? and ?static discharge? if you need more info. I only performed this operation on a Canon SD300 / Ixus 40, but readers have reported that it is the same on the SD200 / Ixus 30 and on the SD400 / Ixus 50. Read all of the instructions before proceeding. Within each step, I don?t necessarily use exact chronological order. Tools: a small Phillips head screwdriver and a smaller flathead screwdriver (used for prying). Step 1. Ascertain what is broken. Symptom: your screen still glows with light, but shows crazy colors or a visible crack surrounded by crazy colors. Problem: your LCD screen is broken but your backlight still works. You need only purchase a new LCD screen. Symptom: your LCD does not glow. Problem: your backlight is probably broken. This didn?t happen to me, so I don?t give any further advice about this problem on this page. However, the information on this page will take you about 60% of the way to replacing the backlight as well, so it may be useful. Step 2. Order a replacement screen. UK: H. Lehmann's Ltd: +44 (0)1782 413 611 at a cost of 33 GBP (including shipping) US: Canon? +1 732 521 7230 / +1 800-828-4040 at a cost of around 66$ (including shipping) The part number for the SD-300 / Ixus 40 LCD screen (without backlight) is: ck9-1103 The part number is the same in the US & UK. I do not know whether the SD-200 / Ixus 30 LCD / SD-400 / Ixus 50 LCD part number is the same.. Step 3. Open the camera - Remove 6 screws in total: 2 from the left side, 2 from the right side, and 2 from the bottom. - Gently pry open the case - The plate covering the ?grommet? to which you attach the strap will fall off. So will the round grommet. Don?t worry about it. Step 4. Remove the screen & backlight assembly from the back of the camera - Remove the screw from the upper right corner of the backlight/LCD package. Note: this screw is of different size to those you have already removed. Keep it separate. - Be careful of the tongue extending from the bottom right corner of the backlight/LCD package. It?s very tiny and easy to miss. You want to be sure to slide it out, because it?s easy to just break the plastic into which the tongue slides. (I did. Not a huge crisis, but I wish I hadn?t!) - There is a tab on the left side of the backlight/LCD package. Pull it back slightly so you can lift the backlight/LCD package. (I used the flathead screwdriver to pry it off.) - You should now be able to lift up the backlight/LCD package. It will still be connected to the camera body via two ribbon cables. Step 5. Separate the LCD from the backlight - There are a number of fiddly plastic/metal tabs holding the two together. Just gently pry and poke until you have separated them. It?s a bit time consuming, but I can?t really give better instructions than these. - You should be left with the LCD totally separate from the backlight, but still connected to the camera via a ribbon cable. - The backlight should also remain connected to the camera via a ribbon cable. Step 6. Undo the LCD ribbon cable - The LCD ribbon cable extends under the bottom of the camera (actually passing under the tripod screw hole, which cannot be removed). It re-appears in the front of the camera and is connected to a socket. The socket is rather like a DIMM socket on a computer. It has a flat, black, clasp which is folded down to hold the ribbon cable in the socket. - Examine carefully the way the ribbon cable is attached to the socket. Note that it is pushed in entirely, so that the wider part of the cable (with two holes at either side of it) is flush against the socket. - GENTLY lift the clasp (I used the flathead screwdriver). It should swivel up and the ribbon cable should fall out. DO NOT YET PULL THE RIBBON OUT OF THE CAMERA. Step 7. Totally remove the LCD - Tape a long, narrow strip of paper to the end of the ribbon cable. This paper is to help you thread the ribbon cable of the new LCD back through the inside of the camera. - Note how the ribbon cable is threaded under the tripod mount to the front of the camera. Wiggle it around a bit, get a feel for it. Sliding the new one back through is a bit tough, so experiment with how this one fits and where it goes. - Gently pull the ribbon cable out from under the tripod mount, leaving the broken LCD screen now completely detached from the camera. Make sure to leave the paper threaded through the camera so that you can tape it to the new LCD?s ribbon cable and pull that one back through. - If you messed up with the paper, don?t worry. You can still push the new ribbon cable through: it just takes some wriggling and some time! Finishing. - You have now got to go through the process in reverse, installing the new LCD screen. - Threading the LCD ribbon cable back under the tripod mounting screw is tough. Just keep sliding it back and forth and exert pressure to push it through. It will go through, eventually. - As you connect the LCD ribbon cable, read the ?white screen? problem below, so that you do not suffer from it! FAQ 1. My screen just shows white or gray. (E.g. white screen, white display). What did I do wrong? A. The ribbon cable that connects the LCD to the circuit board was not inserted deeply enough. The end of the ribbon cable has a narrow portion, then a very small much wider portion with two holes at either end, then it narrows again. The very tip should be inserted into the "socket" deeply enough that the wider portion is pressed right up against the "socket." Physically, it cannot be inserted more deeply. It may help you to use two wooden or plastic toothpicks, one in each of the small holes at the end of the cable, to push the cable into the socket." If you feel like supporting the author of this thread, go to his website through this link: Good luck

May 18, 2006 | Canon PowerShot SD400 / IXUS 50 Digital...

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