Question about Sram X.9 Rear Derailleur

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I have sram grip shifts and a new x-9 derailleur. I can't get the chain higher than the 7th largest gear(I have 9 gears). Suggestions?

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Check ur cable tension or the high and low adjustment screws on the derailer

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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My rear derailer needs adjusting, it slips in between gears.


As mentioned above, it could be many causes but assuming that the drivetrain is in proper working condition it is a simple matter of cable adjustment. If your derailleur has a "barrel adjuster" on it your good to go. This is usually a plastic sleeve that sits right before the cable housing enters the derailleur body. If you shift to a higher (smaller) gear & the chain doesn't follow you want to turn the adjuster the direction that you want the chain to go! In that case it would be clockwise. If you shift to a lower (bigger) gear & the chain doesn't follow, you'll turn the adjuster counter clockwise. However, newer derailleur systems like Shimano's Shadow series or Sram's derailleurs, you'll notice that there is no barrel adjuster at the derailleur end! So... you'll have to use the barrel adjuster at the shifter end. Good Luck!

Aug 03, 2013 | Cycling

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I have a honda trx 350 es my problem is it wont go into any gear the motor was clicking but now its gone dead


Hello,

Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.

2
Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.

3
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.

4
Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.

5
Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.

6
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.

7
If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.

8
Follow steps 1 through 7 for the front derailleur, which operates on exactly the same mechanism as the rear derailleur (you still lift the rear wheel in step 1). There are two side-by-side adjusting screws that control alignment.
If otherwise,
Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.
Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.


Hoping this will help to solve the problem, do take care....

Sep 19, 2011 | Quad Cycling

1 Answer

Rear double click SRAM shifting does not work at all hardly. It's supposed to be a smooth transition up/down with single/double click pushes. I can't seem to get it to change it from the two...


The only thing that allows the derailleur to shift to smaller cogs is the spring in the derailleur pulling the cable through all the housing. Therefore if your shifting is stubborn there is too much friction for the spring to overcome. Can be multiple reasons - rust/corrosion/contamination, kinked housing, poor housing ends, frayed cable, etc.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

Jul 20, 2017 | Sram Force Double Tap Shift/Brake Levers

1 Answer

I have a SRAM 3.0 rear derailer. It is difficult going into the two largest gears, I have a 7 speed cassette. I notice there is no barrel adjustment on it. Any suggestions


The barrel is for fine tuning the indexing among the gears. Limit screws set the inner and outer physical swing of the derailleur.

A simple web search for "Sram 3.0 Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur adjustment" finds the manual.

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/RD_X0_X9_X7_5_4_3_QS_03.PDF

There IS a barrel adjuster.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur

Aug 10, 2011 | Sram 3.0 Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur -...

1 Answer

Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution


Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting.
Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.



Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.



Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





Mar 04, 2011 | Pacific International Pacific Evolution 24...

1 Answer

Hi, I have recently installed a new X9 derailleur in accordance with the manufactures' instructions. I have also relpaced the rear hanger. The gears shift ok, however, when in gear, especially the...


Did you also replace the chain or any of the cogs? Skipping is a common condition when you replace one and not the other. Or if the cogs and chain are well worn, it may simply be time to replace them. You can usually do fine without replacing the gear-rings (that is, the cogs by the pedals)

Nov 10, 2010 | Sram X9 Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur

1 Answer

SRAM x-7 derailleur jumps gears.


make sure nothing is bent and all sprockets are tight, try replacing cable and readjusting .

Nov 23, 2009 | Sram X.7 Rear Derailleur

1 Answer

Installed new front sram x9 trigger shifter & its overshifting


You might have to consider changing your bottom bracket for one with a longer shaft. Examine your chain line and do some research here:http://www.parktool.com/ and also here:http://sheldonbrown.com/gearing/index.html

Oct 15, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Put chaine back on bike


Starting with someone holding the bike with the front of the bike to your right proceed as follows. Shift the rear derailleur down so that it lines up with the smallest cog on the rear. Shift the front derailleur to the smallest cog on the front. This will give you the least resistance to thread the chain. Starting at the rear lay the chain over the rear cog teeth and holding the arm of the derailleur down so that the idler gears are one above the other thread the left end of the chain to the right side of the top idler gear and down through the cage. proceed with the end of the chain to the left side the the bottom idler gear and down . The left end of the chain you just threaded will now meet the right end of the chain which you are about to thread. Don't let the left end slip back the way you came. Take the right end of the chain and thread it through the cage of the front derailleur and over the smallest gear on the front proceeding to your right. It should be sitting in the teeth.Pull the right end of the chain down and arouind to meet the left end of the chain. Since you are asking how to thread the chain I am assuming that it is apart in one long length and not in a continuous loop. Use a twist tie to hold the two ends of the chain together for now. Shift the front derailleur to the largest outside gear taking care to lift the chain off the teeth of the small gear and place them on the large gear as you are shifting. Shift the rear derailleur to the largest inside gear(cog) on the back wheel taking care to move the chain again as you shift. The chain should be in a continuous loop with no twists in it that goes as I described through both derailleur cages and over the largest gear on the back and the largest gear on the front. Now the tricky part. You may need someone to help. You have to pull the chain with your left hand to move the rear derailleur cage all the way forwardand with the twist tie removed bring the right end of the chain all the way back to the rear along the left end of the chain to measure how long it would be joined up in that position. Note where the chain would meet if tight. You will have excess chain on one end. From where the ends meet give yourself two links on the excess end of the chain and where the ends will join now is the correct length. You will need a chain (break) tool to force the pin out on the excess end of the chain to remove the excess length.You have two choices for joing the chain. You can buy a pin that you can join the two ends with and when it is forced through to the mark on it with the tool you then snap the end off with a pair of pliers or you can buy a joiner link that comes in two halves that fit through the holes on opposite sides of the chain and then snap together. The forward action of pedalling will make the final snap to hold the link on. If you decide on the latter method you will notice that you will have to remove another pin from the length to get the side plates off the chain and expose both holes. This is a complicated explanation and if you haven't done this before and you don't have a chain tool it is far easier to get a bicycle shop to install a new chain as the actual chain has to be a direct match in manufacturing to properly fit your bike. If you decide to do this yourself, take the old chain in and get a new one. Make sure it hasn't been shortened as the old chain has probably been stretched and the proper method of measuring the new one is by using the bike itself not just laying the new one and the old one side by side. Good Luckand hope this helps.

May 16, 2009 | Huffy Alpine 24 Youth All-Terrain Bicycle

1 Answer

Chain rubs inner front derailleur while in lowest gear.


on front derailleurs there should be two small cross head screws one has L(lower) next to it the other has H(higher), you will need a cross head srewdriver, you simply losten or tighten the 2 screws and it will adjust the position of the derailleur to your crankset and it that completely fails then you might need to try a different crankset

Feb 26, 2009 | Sram Cycling

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