Panasonic TH46PZ800U - 1/3 of the right side of the screen has gone black. The other 2/3 are still working fine. Would this be a bad C1 board or a D-board. Any way to check diagnose these boards.

Hello Gilbert,
The plastic ribbon cable can be fixed by cutting a very very small amount off the end of it to remove the damaged connection with a very sharp pair of scissors but not too much! Be real careful when you attempt to re-install it!
Whether or not it is the C1 board can be answered by looking next to the 2 black connectors and the board model is located inside a square box. You can order a new one here; Panasonic TH 58PZ800U TV Parts
The number given (821ar053) is not a valid part number for the board (maybe it's for an IC?)
One of the below suggestions under "related questions should help with the line issue.
Good Luck!
Rich Lilja

If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Line, faults & possible causes to LCD screen are given with illustrations. You can get an idea about the fault to an extent.

Dale Anderson
1- Crumbs or part wearout may be keeping the plastic latch from engaging. If you have the toaster apart, you can compare the arm latching action of the good side with the bad side--maybe there is an obvious difference in the travel of the arm that keep it from engaging.---leaving the travel short even 1/8" can keep the latch from engaging.

2- If there is nothing obviously mechanically wrong, then it may be a control board malfunction. Make sure the 3-pin control board connector is plugged into the transformer/solenoid board. Since you are getting lights, this should be OK. You have at least one good board (the side that works) so you could plug that board into the other side to see if the arm stays down. For fun, you can plug the bad board into the other side to see if the other side now malfunctions. If the problem follows the board, then you have your answer.

If you know someone that understands electronics, they may be able to repair the board--have them look at electrolytic capacitor C1 and make sure it is good. If that part is bad, it can be replaced for about $1 by going to Fry's and purchasing a replacement capacitor. After a couple of years of use, a defective C1 may "dry out" and cause control board problems.

• I repaired the same symtom that happened to one of the sides of my CPT-180 toaster. The magnets wouldn't engage due to a bad C1 capacitor on the circuit board that controlled that side of the toaster--the capacitor was bulged out on the bottom and turned out to be bad. I've attached some photos showing C1 bulged out compared to C1 on the good board.
  C1 is the main power supply capacitor and if it goes bad, the circuit board power supply won't function correctly. This can lead to a broad spectrum of problems like the lever not staying down due to the magnets not engaging or the toasting control/timing circuits malfunctioning. If you replace the capacitor, it is best in most cases to replace with the same value as the orginal (220uf on my toaster)---you can usually get a replacement capacitor at Fry's Electronics. Replacing with a higher capacitance may be acceptable, but you should understand the impact to the rest of the circuit before you substitute a higher capacitance value. The voltage rating and temperature rating of the replacement capacitor should be the same or greater or the capacitor will fail quickly. Note the max temperature rating of capacitor C1 is +105C---toasters get hot (duh!) and the temperature around the circuit board of this model gets quite warm, so the temperature rating of the capacitor is critical. Finally, make sure the substitute capacitor fits when installed (requires soldering) and does not interfere with surrounding circuitry or other toaster mechanics when the circuit board is put back in place.
  Pictures:
  C1_location (next to screw)
  Comparing_good_C1_with_bad_C1--note bulge on bottom of right C1
  Right_orginal_C1_and_left_replacement_C1
  Bad_C1 showing capacitance, voltage and max temperature ratings
  
  Jun 24, 2014
  

I repaired a problem with one of the sides of my CPT-180 toaster that was fixed by replacing C1. This may be the same component that Stan was referring to, as the C1 capacitor on the circuit board I was having problems with was bulging. I've attached some photos showing C1 bulged out compared to C1 on the good board.
C1 is the main power supply capacitor and if it goes bad, the circuit board power supply won't function correctly. This can lead to a broad spectrum of problems like the lever not staying down or the toasting control/timing circuits malfunctioning. If you replace the capacitor, it is best in most cases to replace with the same value as the orginal (220uf on my toaster)---you can usually get a replacement capacitor at Fry's Electronics. Replacing with a higher capacitance may be acceptable, but you should understand the impact to the rest of the circuit before you substitute a higher capacitance value. The voltage rating and temperature rating of the replacement capacitor should be the same or greater or the capacitor will fail quickly. Note the max temperature rating of capacitor C1 is +105C---toasters get hot (duh!) and the temperature around the circuit board of this model gets quite warm, so the temperature rating of the capacitor is critical. Finally, make sure the substitute capacitor fits when installed (requires soldering) and does not interfere with surrounding circuitry or other toaster mechanics when the circuit board is put back in place.
Pictures:
C1_location (next to screw)
Comparing_good_C1_with_bad_C1--note bulge on bottom of right C1
Right_orginal_C1_and_left_replacement_C1
Bad_C1 showing capacitance, voltage and max temperature ratings

Likely an inverter issue (some sets use a different name for this) Most have two inverter boards that drive either left/right half of the screen or a single one that does this.

Do some research with Google by model number "parts" "boards" and at the same time with the model number Google "problems"

Look to see what inverter board/s this model uses---likely if two--one is bad or if one it drives the left/right sides of the Panel--should not be too hard to locate by Google the model number "boards"

it is possible that either the d-board is going bad or 1 of the c-boards. try to find and authorized panasonic servicer to help with the repair. we are authorized and in dallas texas. our business is Aces Tv Service.

Hi there! Your fault seems like the (From the back) Left X-Drive Board. Perhaps you can check for bad cable connections. Be careful not to damage the flexible ribbon cables as they tear easily. These boards are located on the top and bottom of the screen.(2 narrow boards, connected to one another) The narrow ones on the side are the Y-Drive boards and is not the fault. Best Wishes and Good Luck. JUS004

You could have a couple of different things causing your troubles.
1.) it could be a bad panel itself and that would need to be replaced $$$$
2.) it could have a bad connection on the address assembly or the address board is bad. Can be repaired.$$
3.) could be a digital Video board that feeds the adddress board gone bad. $$

Can you post a picture of the fault?