Unit runs on all speeds but does not blow cool air.
I have tested the circket board and it is not turning on the compressor relay. There is enough freon in the system; bypassing the relay and taking pressure readings show correct pressures. Where can I get a circket board? My model # is AW12EC88
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: unit runs on all speeds but does not blow cool air.
I would check the control circuit first to see that you don't have a sefety tripped such as a freeze stat or high/low presssure switch. You can find the board at the following site. part is called assy pcb main. let me know if you need anything else. seth
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.
I've replaced many Amanda control boards. They have micro relays attached to the board. These relays are about a half inch by 1 inch in size, and control line voltage to the compressor and blower motor, and give up quite often. Its probably the board if its a digital controlled board. If it has manual, turn to select, type knob, it will be in that fan section knob. Hope this helps!
It's could be the board or a heat relay. See if you have 24 volts on "x2" im assuming, emergency heat when in cool mode if so it's the board. Or unhook black or x2 or your emergency heat from board and run unit in cool. If heat stays on its a relay
Sounds like the thermostat, the way to verify is to unplug indoor unit, remove thermostat, take pic of wiring with phone or label the wires as to the terminals. Carefully twist the yellow,(Y) Red (R) and the green (G) together. Plug the furnace back in, if the unit operates normally, replace the thermostat. I am basing this on the fact that the blower speed is changing. This could also be an anomaly within the circuit board in the furnace section, not likely though as the outside unit (condenser) is not controlled n by the indoor board unless this is a heat pump. hope this helps. D
The actual part is usually a pressure switch. There are 2, one for high pressure and a second for low pressure. The low pressure switch is often on the black oblong tank or closest to it.
To test the low pressure switch you can unplug it and get an insulated looped wire to place into the harness connector you removed. Then while the engine is running and the controls are set for A/C, you briefly connect the wire into the harness to bypass the part.
If the compressor clutch makes a noise and engages, remove the wire. The compressor is on a safety lockout. You must find a Freon leak and restore the Freon to the system. Depending on whether the Freon is all gone or just low will determine your next step.
You can borrow gauges from Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys for a refundable deposit. If no Freon is present, you need to purge the system after fixing the leak. There are additional products used to find leaks. Ask at the autoparts places. There are also leak sealers.
If you are lucky enough to be just low on Freon, adding a can of Freon with sealer may fix it. The autoparts places can tell you more about this.
The common mistake is in overfilling the system or with severe leaks, failing to add oil to the compressor. The gauges, manifold gauges as they are called, are needed for best results.
You want a moderate charge in the system. If you are off on either high or low end pressure, the switches will kill the compressor clutch. A moderate charge will keep the compressor operating more steadily.
Aside from the pressure switches, the system can have a fuse in the fuseblock. I believe your problem will be with the pressure switches and low Freon.
Hello, You have two switches which work off the pressure of the Freon. Both of these switches cut off the power to the compressor. One is for HIGH pressure and the other is for LOW pressure. Check for power at the compressor clutch connector harness while the controls are set and the engine is running. You may have power and a bad clutch.
When you say that the Freon pressure is good, does that mean the pressure is within the proper range? Too much Freon will make the HIGH switch cut off power and too little will make the LOW pressure switch cut off power.
The ideal amount(ozs) of Freon is what is recommended by the Manufactuer and it will provide a moderate amount of pressure of about 35psi-40psi. You can borrow pressure gauges, called Manifold gauges to measure your system at autoparts stores with loaner programs.
The low pressure side of the system is the one you use to induce the Freon to go into an empty system. You can bypass this switch by taking off the connector and putting a "U" shaped jumper into the harness and the compressor clutch should get power to LOCK up all of the time.
You can take off the switch connector at the compressor clutch and then check for power when bypassing the HIGH pressure switch if the LOW pressure switch does not make the system get power. Only, really only bypass the HIGH pressure switch with the clutch connector disconnected. The HIGH switch is there to prevent damage to all of the components from seals to lines to every piece of Freon hardware in the car. Bypassing with the A/C clutch disconnected will allow you to know if power is getting to the compressor clutch.
Finally, you can get FREE wiring and fusebox diagrams through Autozone.com. Just sign and register to their site and then you can print the documents for yourself.
Good luck with this repair and I hope my solution helps you.
system could be low in freon
bypassing relays and switch would just engage compressor and if system is low
will cause compressor failure has freon also carries a/c oil trueout system for lubrication
need to hookup to gauge to monitor system and pressures when jumping switches