Juki overlocker machine model MO-1000 looper cover not shutting properly

Most likely. Most overlockers can make a rolled hem. You will probably want to do a lot of practicing on scrap chiffon before trying it on the real thing. It involves using only one needle, both loopers, and making appropriate adjustments to the machine.

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Bernina has some very nice Serger Workbooks that could be helpful:
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As a general rule the left cover needs to have its top aligned with the plate and then tapped shut with your hand until it catches. The front cover that I believe you are asking about, should lay flat when you are threading it, and then you pull it to the right as you are closing it and then it will catch the latch as it slides into place beside the knives. If this is not happening, I would check down in the hinge and see if there is something caught in it, such as a piece of lint or material. Use your vacuum cleaner hose to sweep out the hinge if there is alot of lint or you can use canned air if there is just minor lint. Then use an old toothbrush to brush across the hinge to make positive it is clean and try to close again. Good Luck.

There are quite a few pictures of threading diagrams on the internet. Just perform a search for the make + model + the word "threading."

Be sure to follow the threading order specified in your owner's manual. If the order is not followed accurately, the machine will most likely not work properly. Also, be sure to RAISE the presser foot BEFORE threading. While threading each thread, grasp the thread with one hand between the thread tree and the tension disk and grasp the thread below the tension disk with the other hand and gently tug the thread to make sure it has seated in the tension disk. With most sergers, the lower looper thread MUST drape over the top of the upper looper in its final threading process Before being pulled under the presser foot.

Juki MO 816 threading Google Search

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwiOt_7mqbHKAhVK52MKHc5XB5MQFggdMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raichert.com%2Fadobe%2FMO804-12-16%2520Inst.pdf&usg=AFQjCNH1vfonoEQ29McTsOItvQoW8ECZag&cad=rja

If any either looper thread breaks or comes unthreaded, it is the best advice to unthread all the looper threads and re-thread from the BEGINNING. Just bite the bullet and do it. It will save a lot of frustration.

Could be a timing issue.

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Here is your Manual:

JUKI MO 644D Instruction Manual

Overlockers and or Sergers are ALWAYS threaded the same way. Upper looper, Lower looper, right needle, left needle. If you have a model number for your Juki we might be able to find you more information.

The best way to figure out tension problems is to thread each thread in a different color so you can determine which thread is giving you problems.

These machines can be frustrating and EVERY time the thread breaks you MUST start the threading problem from the beginning... upper looper, lower looper, right needle left needle.

I tried to find this on the Juki website but its obviously a previous model so not much info on there. But did find it listed elsewhere as a 3/4 thread overlocker.

So I'd guess at the following, it probably seams a four thread marrow (overlock seam) made with two needles and two loopers. And a three thread overlock seam where you use either the left or right needle, this would give you either a narrow or wider 3 thread seam. Image below of 3 and 4 thread overlock seams.


Lastly, I would suggest that the D denotes Differential feed, this is a feature that controls the two feed dogs in the machine and gives you the ability to set them to move at different speeds - very handy to control the fabric feeding but also used decoratively for lettuce edging.

Rolled hem - most overlockers of 3/4 variety will also do a rolled hem; however, I can't actually confirm if this model does or not. But look around for a retractable stitch ****** in the foot or needle plate or a second needle plate in the accessory case. Rolled hemming is also very useful and most models will do it now; just variation in how you actually set it up to do so. Bernettes you flick a lever in front of the needle/foot area, earlier Elnas like the L3 and L4 you needed to change the needle plate and a little ****** in the presser foot.

Of course, you could email the local distributor for Juki in your country and ask them and this may be the best way to check. Just copy this into your browser
http://www.juki.co.jp/juki_form/home_e/toiawase_form.html to go to their contact us page.

DC x 1 should be your needle type.
Try this company for your manual:
Juki MO-2500 Parts - MO-2500: Sewing Parts Online www.sewingpartsonline.com/...ewing-machine-parts.aspx
An Online Juki Parts Superstore, We also supply MO-2500 manuals, presser feet and accessories. Fast, free shipping over $75.

How to Thread Juki MO-134 Serger from watching lady at Lyles. Turn upper blade up. Push in first then turn up.It makes threading easier. Blue Thread upper looper first. Pull thread through tension knob. Don'tjust lay it there. (She thought that is what I must have done) Orange Thread lower looper next. Pull thread through tension knob as inthreading upper looper. Adjust lower looper so it is right nextto upper looper so that their points are almost together and directly belowsewing needles. Lower looper will be in front of upper looper (I believe). With tread from upper looper pulledback, slightly lift lower looper above upper looper and thread. I think this isright. Pull thread back with other thread. Tension is the key. Remember that. Yellow: Thread left needle first.Remember tension. Pull thread through curled wire on left side of needle arm. Green: Thread right needle. Rememberabout tension. Pull thread through curled wire on right side of needle arm. b> Note: Before sewing turn the wheel tomake sure the stitches are going together correctly.

Put new needles in it.

Following the colors, thread the upper looper first, then the lower looper. Next thread the needles. Always thread in this order.