Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

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Wash cycle starting normally - sounds like a 'pop'short out and does kick circuit breaker off. Outlet is fine....So, is the 'brain' gone? Where do i find the replacement parts. I was told at purchase 7 years ago,that I could do it myself; that it was easy. Please advise. zip 54703

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Sounds like the capacitor or mains sepresor has gone need to have them checked by an expert

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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Holiday Tradition Express starts to run but seems to trip out and stop. Could this be a problem with the electronic board? Does anyone repair these boards?


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!















Jan 03, 2017 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do i fix hoover vision hd washing machine that blew a house fuse then machine comes on will not start cycle ***


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!




May 17, 2015 | Hoover Washing Machines

1 Answer

I got 2 wascomat gen5 that trips breakers only on rinse cycle


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.




Mar 17, 2015 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Dish machine keep popping breaker


your heating element is perhaps gone its the most likely things just after inital cycle call.... try to disconnect the element two spades and if it goes past this point i would replace it for sure
or some leakage too earth
sounds like too me the element jacket is bad and water has leaked in good old house trip before your house may have burned down...!!!! so...

something is leaking to earth ... that has water inside
perhaps the main recycle or outlet pump housings has cracked...??? look for rust on the motors laminated cores...

Mar 05, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Have a Whirlpool Cabrio washer WTW6400SW3 went thru wash wash cycle, then started to drain water to go into rinse cycle. Half way thru draining, was a loud electrical pop in control area of washer and...


sounds like a shorted machine due to water or moister? In most case you had a fuse blow on the machine somewhat like a thermal shut off fuse, most likely located in the panel. if this is the case u need to find out what shorted it, how water or moister got in? You can also look at the control curcuit board and look for burned seized transistors or areas indicating a burned out board.

Feb 11, 2015 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

My duo therm 13.5 btu rv air conditioner started making a popping sound and dimming the lights like it's trying to cycle to shut off. Well then it started triping the circuit breaker so I changed out the 2...


The best guess is that you have a bad thermostat. When the compressor shuts off it has to stay off for a long enough period of time for the low pressure high pressure to equalize. If it turns the compressor off and back on immediately it can't start against the heavy load created by these unequal pressures. If it will start every time after sitting for 10 minutes the thermostat is making it short cycle.

May 26, 2014 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

1 Answer

My washer keeps popping new circuit


You havent given details when the breaker pops. Is it right away, in wash cycle, spin cycle or drain? If it pops right away, there has to be a short circuit, but it fills water up then as soon as the motor starts n it pops, it could be motor. If blows during spin, definately motor drawing too much current. Then it could be the breaker that is weak/faulty. The breaker if not faulty it will pop if the current drawn by the motor exceeds it's rating or there is a short.

Aug 01, 2013 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

5 Answers

Washer stopped mid-cycle, water in the bottom of the tub. Circuit breaker popped due to over-load. Reset breaker and it immediately popped again. Could this be cause by a jam in the grinder assembly?


My dishwasher just quit mid cycle. (still has water in it) It is a whirlpool partner 1. I checked the breaker and it wasn't tripped... but i reset it anyways. When I tried the dishwasher again it worked for a second and turned off. I have done reading about the thermo fuse but can't find it. Not sure how big of a problem this is.
Dishwasher is 5 years old.

Thanks,
Dale

Jul 02, 2009 | Whirlpool GU2400XTP Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Ruud heat pump outside unit trips circuit breaker


Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.

Nov 20, 2007 | Ruud Central System Air Conditioner

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