Question about Garden
I would remove the flywheel to gain access to your points and condensor. You might need to use a wheel puller to remove the flywheel. Once removed you will see another cover that houses your points and condensor. I would definately replace these no matter what. Be sure to set your new points to their proper gap...usually about .015 thousands. When setting gap make sure you are on one of the high sides of the cam. After installing turn crank shaft with cresent wrench adjusted around crank shaft and resting against the soft key...now check to see that points are opening and closing properly. (Turn crank clock wise) Re-assemble all and give er a go!
Posted on Jul 28, 2009
Good that you thought to replace the flywheel key, because the slightest partial shearing can throw the timing off enough to cause run issues.
Make sure you don't have spark by removing the spark plug from the cylinder and laying it on the engine while someone cranks it hard. If you still don't get spark try it with a new plug.
Next check that the kill switch (usually operated by a cable to the dead man bar on the handle) is opening up when the bar is grasped. The cables can become frozen and rust solid from moisture in the cable. Replace if the cable doesn't move smoothly inside the sheath.
Next would be the ignition module if separate from the ignition coil or the whole coil if they are a single unit. If you have to adjust the gap on the magneto, a plain 3x5 card can be used between the flywheel and coil if you removed the coil.
If the pad on the flywheel brake is worn down to metal, make sure the flywheel shavings aren't accumulated around the magneto laminations. And, replace the flywheel brake if worn down.
If the spark turns out to be good, you could have a clogged main jet or the primer mechanism isn't working properly.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 28, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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