The unit works fine (4 year old). When I lower the thermostat to around 72 degress F, I have massive condensation on the blower systems on the vents. Today I remove the filter on the return side to see if that will help. Any suggestions?
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Re: Leaking central A/C unit (Lennox G40uh)
Make sure your condensate drain is clear of algae and other things that can clog the drain line plumbing. This can also lead to hard to control mold and mildew problems inside. Take a "wet or dry" shop vac to the end of the condensate drain line and vacuum out whatever is in the line until it is clear. The drain should flow well and not a occasional drip.
To control the build up of this gunk, about once a month, pour a cup of white vinegar into the drain line near the beginning of the line and the acidity of the vinegar will kill and prevent the regrowth of the drain clogging gunk without harming the environment outside.
If you still have problems, find and reduce sources of humidity inside the building. If the AC is too large for the building, it can fail to run long enough to extract moisture. If the blowers are partly in a hot space and partly in the cool room, the colder setting can cause the humidity to condensate on it as it does naturally in the AC unit and in our weather.
Hope this helps you get started. If not, consult your local HVAC company. See if you have an ARS service near you.
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Due to the many different questions I see about Air Conditioning, I am including this overview to help us better understand each other for trouble shooting. A basic air conditioning system has a Thermostat, Air Handler or Furnace Fan and a Condensing unit. In a split system, the condensing unit (Condenser) is separate from the furnace and usually in the back yard. When working properly, it blows hot air. It connects to the cooling part of the system by 2 copper lines. One large line and 1 small line. The part that cools the house is the "Evaporator" and is usually on top of the furnace inside the square metal box (Plenum). When the Air Conditioner is running, the large copper line should be cold and the smaller line should be warm. Common signs of low refrigerant are that both lines are the same temperature and/or frost or ice has built up on the large line at the condenser. The thermostat will normally display room temperature on till it is touched to change the setting. It could have a "Span" setting as well as times and temperatures. The operating "span" of MOST residential thermostats is 40 to 90 degrees. That means you can set it as low as 40 degrees and no higher than 90 degrees. It probably has a fan switch also. When in the "ON" position, the fan will run constantly, 24 / 7, but the condenser will still cycle on and off as needed to keep the house at set point. If you have a suggestion to include in this paragraph, please let me know.
I think I have it covered above. Let me know if you need something more specific. Thank you. Roger
The accumulation of condensation in the vent piping is more than likly the problem. I am guessing the vent piping is either 3-inch or 2-inch. You need to splice in a "T" fitting reduced down to 3/4-inch with a 3/4-inch tubing attached and run this to a sutible drain. This will drain the condensation elimiating the accumulation in the vent assembly. Install this "T" fitting about 3-feet down stream from the vent motor.These supples and fittings can be found at a Home Depot or Lowes store.
Set System Switch to Cool and lower setpoint below room temperature. Verify
thermostat and system wires are securely attached. Diagonistic: Set
System Switch to Cool and lower the setpoint below the room temperature.
Within a few seconds the thermostat should make a soft click sound.
This sound usually indicates the thermostat is operating properly. If
the thermostat does not click, try the reset operation ( . If the
thermostat does not click after being reset contact your heating and
cooling service person or place of purchase for a replacement. If the
thermostat clicks, contact the AC manufacturer or a service person
to verify the cooling system is operating correctly. Or call the techline 18002842925.
Two things may need to be done here, one is to insulate the vents in the high humidity/temperature area to isolate them from these high conditions. The second would to install a drain pan under the system to catch any condensation and drain it away.
The most common cause of icing in these category of units is a dirty air filter or partiallly dirty condensing or evaporator coil. If the unit is over 5 years old or has been operating in a dusty environment or hasn't had much service, then also check the blower for dirty blades.
The evaporator coil is on the inside and has the filter in front of it. The condenser coil is on the outside and has no filter. It too requires periodic cleaning.
The unit will need to be partially disassembled and the coils cleaned with a stiff brush to remove any build up if they are dirty. That goes for the blower fan too. Look through the side of the casing through the vent louvers to inspect the outdoor coil. Be careful not to bend fins on the coil if possible if the coil(s) need cleaning.
Expensive is relative, service calls are never free. But if you have an idea what the problem is, you are armed against an unethical service company. Now to what you describe, could be a couple things, first let me explain the difference in fan speeds. Furnaces that both heat and cool have multi-speed blower motors. High speed is for cooling and lower speeds are for heating. The fan switch at the T-Stat turns on the high speed fan relay. The lower speed fan is turned on by either a temperature activated switch (silver box mounted on front on furnace above burners) or a time delay relay which is solid state. That being said, your problem could be a defective fan switch or one of your blower motor windings has gone bad. Most motors have 3 or 4 speeds and a technician could just change speeds and all would be good. A fan/limit switch is not so expensive that you would replace the unit. Bottom line, unless your really handy, a heating company is in your future. Good luck and please rate my answer if it was helpful to you.
I am a service manager of a richmond va hvac firm and we tell are employess that if a unit is over 15 yrs old and needs over 500 dollors worth of repair to recomennd replacement the reason the leak repair is so much is because the unit has to have all the refrigerant pulled out and a torch is needed to weld the piping back together in some cases if the leak is in the coil heating it can cause other leaks you also have to add driers to the system and then the environmental fees and rules that the epa makes us follow make prices even worse if you do fix it you probally wont even get a warranty on the repair. I would replace the system and also if cost of repairs are a concern ask the company about a 10 yr part and labor warranty
if you set the thermostat on 70 and your house won't get ant cooler than 72, there is a problem with your system,not your stat. I'm thinking you are low on refrigerant if it is somewhat working. when the unit is running, if you can get your hand on the larger refrigerant line under the black insulation, it should be cold, about 55 degrees.
At sixteen years old it is almost through its life span. A change in ambient temperatures will change internal system pressures. Make sure the condenser is cleaned well. Use a vacuum cleaner to clean off the condenser, then blow it out with compressed air. Even though a condenser looks clean on its surface fins there may be dust down in between the fins.