Question about KitchenAid 24 in. KUDI01TJ - Multiple Color Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

My dishwasher won't start when I select "normal" then "start". I doesn't even start to fill with water

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  • RIC-RAC Jul 29, 2009

    Localwonder,
    Thanks for your quick response. I have already checked the inlet valve and it is working, well at least it works when the relay on the control panel "clicks". Once upon a time, actually at one point while I was troubleshooting I was able to get the machine to start and I noticed that the relay would click when pushing the start button. I have checked continuity of the start button and it checks out okay while being pushed. Please, any more ideas? I haven't found a repair/troubleshooting manual yet.

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI. this is a possible control sector malfunction but, i recommend testing the inlet valve just to be sure its not the valve first. i recommend testing this device before you replace the control sector. it may be faulty.

To access the inlet valve remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel. The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it. One hose will lead from the valve to the pump/motor assembly in the center of the dishwasher. Check that the hoses are securely connected to the valve and that there are no kinks in the hoses which could restrict water flow. There are two wires (four, if it has two solenoids) connected to the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. If your valve has two solenoids, test the second one in the same way as the first. If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the dishwasher is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

**(((If the inlet proves to be functional with no leakage and corrosion, this will lead to the control. its has failed in this case. replace it asap)))

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 29, 2009

    OK, sounds like that relay if faulty. If so, it is not replaceable you will need to replace the entire control board in this case. I would also advise to check the door latch assembly as well. if misaligned, it will prevent the door switch form initiating the go ahead fro the motor relay to activate, in return, preventing the unit to operate.



    The door latch pulls the door tightly closed to prevent water leakage around the door. It is also designed to prevent operation while the door is open. The door latch works in concert with the door switch to ensure that the door is tightly closed and latched. The door switch is a separate part from the door latch and is found inside the cabinet. The switch is off when the door is open. Depressing the switch closes the circuit and enables dishwasher operation. Closing the door does not depress the switch all the way. Only when the door is closed and latched, does the door fully depress the switch.


    If the door latch is not properly aligned it may not pull the door tightly closed and the door switch will not be fully depressed. Unless the switch is fully depressed the dishwasher will not operate.


    It is a simple matter to determine whether the door latch is the problem. Simply open the door, close the latch and select a cycle and depress the switch. Note that if the test is successful, with the door open, the dishwasher will operate and water may spray out. Make sure to first remove all tools from inside the dishwasher. Do not reach inside the dishwasher during the test. Now, inspect the cabinet where the door makes contact with it and locate the door switch. It may have a protruding button or spike or more likely it is a hole with a piece of metal or plastic inside it. You must fully depress that switch. If the switch is recessed, then use a non-conductive object, such as a wooden pencil, to depress the switch. If the dishwasher begins to operate during this test, then you have isolated the problem. The door switch is not being fully depressed when the door is latched. There are three likely possibilities:


    A.The door latch is misaligned.
    B.The entire door is misaligned.
    C.The striker for the door switch is damaged or misaligned.




    To service the door latch, it may be necessary to access it in the control panel. Access varies by model; on some models you can remove just the control panel on others you must remove the interior or exterior panel of the door.


    Before removing the control or interior panel, look first for exposed screws that may allow you to adjust the latch or the strike plate. You may be able to loosen the screws and shift the latch on the door or the strike plate on the cabinet. It may require some trial and error, but you can loosen, adjust, tighten and test until it latches properly.


    (((If the door latch/switch assembly checks out ok, replace that control board/Timer)))

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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