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Whirlpool Model # DU8300XX-0. Motor seal is leaking.

Whirlpool Model # DU8300XX-0. Motor seal is leaking. Have removed 3 screws holding motor to plastic impeller housing. Removed gray plastic piece that screws into other end of impeller housing. How do I remove brass bushing and impeller to remove motor ? Thanx. Doug.

The 8 in the Model # may be a B. ( DUB300XX-0 ) My eyes aren't as young as they used to be. :-)

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Master_Tech
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SOURCE: I had an "f2" error code on Fisher Paykel DD603

i will but need your email address

Posted on May 20, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag Dishwasher-pdb2430awx-Leaking

I believe that you must buy the plastic pump housing.....And that vinyl type shaft seal comes with that..I think!!!!
I have the same problem.....I changed the regular seal kit at a cost of $30.00 CND....Which is like what? 100.00 American.
Anyways mine still leaks after all that. Turns out there is so much rust between the nylon seal that is attached to the motor shaft, that water works its way down there. Funny that seal does not come with the common seal replacement kit. Im going to check tomorrow to see If I can get that seal alone. My concern is that after I drive for another hour one way to get that seal. Am I only going to put it on just to find out that the shaft is pitted to much by the rust to seal again? I am so tired of buyin ****!!!!!!

Posted on May 26, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Frigidaire dishwasher impeller melted! Can't find replacement part!

I have the same problem and after talking to a local service center and doing some online research (remember: Google is your friend) I have discovered this is considered a non-serviceable part and you must buy the entire motor. The impeller comes with the motor. This is probably not the answer you were hoping but is what you have to do. With that said, I plan to JB Weld the ****** back on the motor shaft!

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

reddyanantha
  • 205 Answers

SOURCE: Can't get screw loose on Kenmore dishwasher(665.1559579)impeller.

try it by using a high torck screw driver then the direction for loosening the screw is anticlock wise.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

  • 423 Answers

SOURCE: My Maytag model mdb9600aws motor

You are wise to realize the leak would destroy the motor.

Take a close look at the diagram to see everything that gets placed on the motor shaft. That should give you a good idea what can/must be removed from that shaft.

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=122613&ModelNum=MDB9600AWS&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=54093&Position=2&mfg=Maytag&Type=Appliance&Mark=2


Ask more questions once you have gotten the items off the shaft. OK?

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

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3 Answers

Diverter valve leaks


I have experienced the same diverter motor leaking problems. I have the whirlpool gold with the diverter motor (w10155344). I bought the unit new 4 years ago. The fix is remove the the two screws that hold the diverter motor and pull the motor. You will find why its leaking is because the rubber seal was installed up side down from the factory. The seal and motor should have calcium and corrosion build up from all leaking. No need to buy new parts. Clean the rubber seal with CLR very carefully, as you will notice a deep groove that has a spring around the inner part, use a tooth pick to clean the corrosion out of the deep groove. After a thorough cleaning, apply thoroughly with vaseline for rubber velocity, be sure to wipe off excessive vaseline. The diverter motor can be cleaned by separating the clips with out breaking tabs that hold it together, be sure to clean the corrosion off the wire connection and the little board it connects to on motor. When installing the seal, slide it down the motor shaft with the deep groove face down it should slide into the lip at the bottom and seat nicely, be sure to clean that area as well with CLR. Install the motor, be sure to clean with CLR where the shaft goes into the hole. That took care of the problem for me. Thanks.

Nov 12, 2012 | Whirlpool Dishwashers

1 Answer

Kenmore 110.26492502 top load washing machine is leaking oil (yellowish with black). any chance, as a DIY-er,i can solve this? its turning 5 years old already... thanks! rex


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

The model number you provided doesn't appear on the Sears site. Are you sure it's the right number??

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Pulling the cabinet, pump, motor and gearcase are relatively easy. Getting the 8 bolts off of the gearcase and removing the top can get a bit messy as the gearcase holds 15 Oz. of gear oil. (Easily replaced with non-detergent gear oil from a local auto parts shop.

This is a Whirlpool / kenmore Serviced Manual PDF for top load, direct drive washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.


See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum. See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnectYing power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), and remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil.

You should be able to either re-seat the cover or make a thin gasket using automotive "liquid gasket seal" products.

Jan 29, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Winding noise with some water leaking from the motor seal. Water still flowing but sounds laborous.


The shaft seal more likely than not needs to be replaced. If your shaft seal has been leaking for any length of time, the bearings could be damaged and this should be replaced. The whisperflow uses a PS1000 shaft seal and is fairly easy to replace (most seals available online or at most swimming pool retail stores). It is best advised not to run the pump until you have had this inspected by a licensed pool technician or have changed out the seal.

1) Make sure breaker/power to pump is off. 2) Remove the six bolts holding the wet end to the seal plate. 3) Remove the diffuser to expose the impeller. 4) Remove the screw in the middle of the impeller by turning clockwise (left hand threads). 5) Remove the dust cap at the rear of the motor and use a wrench to hold the shaft while you remove the impeller by turning counterclockwise. 6) Once the impeller is off, remove the four bolts holding the seal plate to the motor. 7) Press the old seal out of the seal plate and clean it thoroughly. Remove the ceramic part of the seal from the impeller and clean it thoroughly as well. 8) Apply a thin coat of lube (I prefer Magic Lube or Lube Tube) to the seal plate and impeller where the new seal will go. 9) Remove the new PS1000 shaft seal from the box (being careful *NOT* to touch the ceramic or carbon face with your fingers), press the metal part into the seal plate carefully, try not to bend the metal and make sure its completely seated against the seal plate. 10) You can now install the seal plate back onto the motor and secure with four bolts. Press the ceramic part into the impeller, use cardboard or paper between your fingers and the ceramic face. 11) Once you have seated the seal into the impeller, hold the motor shaft and thread the impeller on until snug, then reinstall the stainless screw, remember it is left hand thread so you'll have to turn it counterclockwise. 12) Reinstall the diffuser over the impeller and then install the wet end onto the seal plate using the six bolts, don't overtighten them.
Check the pump for operation and you should be good to go!


Dec 07, 2010 | Pentair 011515 WhisperFlo FullRated Energy...

1 Answer

Pump seal is leaking water. I removed the screws holding the pump together. How do I remove the impellor to get at the seal?


This is from one of my previous posts, may be some extra steps, but should cover what you need... Turn off the electric first. Now split the pump in two by removing the large clamp or 4-6 bolts holding the two halves together. (not the 4 bolts holding the motor to seal plate, but the the bolts holding the seal plate to the seal plate housing). Once you remove the clamp or bolts, the motor with seal plate, diffuser, and Impeller can all be pulled back away from the pump. Then disconnect the electrical from the motor and you can pull the motor with the seal plate, and impeller all the way out and work on it. To get to the impeller, you need to remove the diffuser (plastic housing that goes around the impeller) usually by a series of 3 to 6 small screws. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tail piece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under the thermal overload switch, or removing the capacitor for even easier access. Once you've locked the shaft, you can just unscrew impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. this screw will be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. Make sure to replace the shaft seal, and use a tiny bit of pool lube on the rubber parts when installing, but keep the white ceramic, and black graphite surfaces 100% free of any dirt, grease, etc while working with them. Installation is pretty much just the reverse. Install half the seal into the seal plate. Install the seal plate onto motor and bolt into place. Install other half of seal onto shaft. Screw impeller onto shaft and install screw (if one was there to start with) in center of impeller (reverse thread). install diffuser over impeller make sure it is centered and doesn't rub the impeller hub. Install new diffuser and valute o-rings. Hookup wiring before re-attaching to rest of pump. Clamp or bolt back together. Pour plenty of water into pot to prime and flip the motor on for a sec or two. Pour some more water. Install pot lid. You should be good to go. Keep in mind there are many different pumps and some variations to the above instructions, but the above should cover most situations. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave a good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

Oct 03, 2010 | Dynamo ABOVEGROUND POOL PUMP - 1.5HP -

1 Answer

How do you remove the empellor from the motor shaft? The seal is leaking. I have the 4 screws loose holding the pump casing. Does is slip off the motor shaft or is it threaded on?


First off, are you sure it's the shaft seal leaking and not the Valute (the large o-ring or seal that is in between to two halves of the pump) seal? To clarify, if you get your head down and look at the bottom of the pump while it's running you should be able to see the water coming from the joint between the seal plate, and the seal plate housing, or just behind that from the bottom of the motor probably from the vent holes in the motor housing.

Now to answer your question, assuming it is the shaft seal leaking.... You may have already done some of these steps, if so, sorry - just ignore, but it may help others. To get to the impeller, you need to split the pump into two (the wet end from the dry end) This is done by either removing a large clamp, or removing 4 to 6 bolts depending on the pump. (I'm not talking about the 4 bolts that hold the motor to the seal plate, those come later see below) Once you do this the Motor, seal plate, impeller and diffuser will all pull back away from the front of the pump. At this point it's best to disconnect the electric and remove the whole assembly so you can work on a table or bench. Before removing the impeller you need to remove the diffuser which is screwed over the impeller onto the seal plate with 3-6 small screws. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and just unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tail piece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under one of the components (not sure exact part off top of my head have to look at it) and then turning impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. It should be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (it should be counter clockwise standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. One thing to note and/or clarify... in your description you said you have the "4" screws loose... As I mentioned above, most pumps have either a large clamp or 6 bolts holding the two halves of the pump together. In your case I believe it's bolts. Some have 4, but most have 6. Then there also 4 bolts that hold the motor to the seal plate. Just want to clarify that you split the pump in two and remove the diffuser, and impeller, before removing the motor from the seal plate. I haven't worked on a Waterway in awhile, but there are basically the same as many other pumps. You may have 4 bolts, just wanted to clarify from the motor mounting bolts. If something looks different on your pump from my description let me know by leaving a comment and I'll clarify asap. Good Luck!

Sep 19, 2010 | Waterway Champion 1 1/2 Hp 230v Energy...

1 Answer

Washing machine agitator has grease on it & doesn't always turn


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

And the Whirlpool Parts list for these washers:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It sounds as if the Gearcase Cover Seal may be worn and is allowing transmission oil to work it's way up the main agitator shaft.

I'd pull the motor and transmission to check for leaking and probably check all of the seals on the gearcase and drive tube.

(IT SOUNDS LIKE A REAL PAIN BUT ISN'T.) THE PARTS TO REPAIR ANY SEALS ARE INEXPENSIVE.:

For example, the above part number 3349985 is $9.09 at Sears and is a basic Whirlpool part.

See the following for how to release the console and cabinet and how to pull the pump, motor, gearcase and drive tube.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=142

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Check all the seals and replace as necessary.

Also see the following Whirlpool document on the transmission.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Overall, its a lot less expensive to replace a couple of seals than to replace a $170 gearcase.


May 09, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Door seal leaks cant how to remove and reinstall


1: remove the top panel
2: remove the lower front panel
3; remove the control panel
4: remove the screws holding the door switch
5: remove clamparound the door seal and remove front panel (2 screws bottom and 2 up)
6: remove clip around door seal that holds tothe tub
7: replace seal....

there you go!!!

Jul 04, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Whirlpool 8255e Super Capacity: How to replace drain pump?


Sounds like the drain pump has been leaking from the seal where the motor shaft goes into it. Usually you pop off the 2 metal clips, and pull the drain pump off the motor shaft.
If yours won't come off easily, chances are the motor shaft has expanded from corrosion, seizing the drain pump onto it. You can try prying it off by wedging a screw driver between it and the motor (be careful not to damage the motor). Last resort is to break the drain pump into pieces to remove it.
You will likely have to sand or file the motor shaft back into shape to install the new drain pump.
Let me know if you need more help.
Good luck!

Mar 13, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

My Whirlpool GS6SHAXMB00 ice dispenser is not working.


the ice motor can be remove from a door just under the ice bin... two screws hold the door . four screws hold the motor in ...remove motor and check it may just be frozen. thaw it out check the seal at it may be let water drip down the shaft...

let me know

Dec 21, 2008 | Whirlpool GS6SHAXMB Side by Side...

2 Answers

Whirlpool washer won't spin


most likely just clutch ck for oil or water on it if oil most likely top seal gearcase is leaking ..remove agitator cap remove bolt in middle of agitator ..remove console screws remove clips under console holding cabinet on remove cabinet ..lean washer back remove pump then motor remove the 3 bolts holding gearcase in remove gearcase clutch is silver disk on top of gearcase with band inside ..band is actual clutch may try cleaning it but not hopeful about it being a permanet fix

Nov 12, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

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