Question about Irwin 1/4" Spiral Screw Extractor & Drill Bit

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Broken 11mm stud in a 3 1/8 inch deep hole . head bolt broken in cast iron block, want to remove broken bolt with out removing head.

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  • junkman48 Aug 05, 2009

    thanks woobie dog. my problem is that i want to remove the broken bolt wiothout removing the head.The bolt broke even with the block. This means it is at the bottom of hole 3 1/8 inches deep and less than 1/2 inche in diameter,

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  • 1,273 Answers

First of all, put penetrating oil on it, and let it soak. Tapping distributes the penetrant better.
If there is still a shoulder of the bolt exposed, you may be able to get it started moving with a small pipe wrench. A hammer helps the pipe wrench. If there is more room, use the largest pipe wrench that you can fit on it.
There are also grippers available (Sears) that work on rounded nuts, this may work.
The next option would be to drill the bolt and use an ease-out to remove it.
After this would be to drill the entire bolt out and install a heli-coil so that an new bolt can be installed.
Best regards. Hope this helps. --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution! Thanx!

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How do you remove a broken head bolt?


I would centre punch mark the centre of the broken stud and with a drill stand, drill a hole down the whole length of the stud, getting larger and larger as I change the bits. When I reach the last threads peel the thread out using a pick. If the thread is damaged, drill oversized to tape to fit a Hellicoil.
The largest Essex Engine was 3.4litre V6, not 3.8. The most common was the 3.0litre fitted to the Zodiac and Capri. It was a V4 with two more pistons and uses the same head bolts etc.

Jun 18, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks

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Small Block Chevy V8 267, 305, 327, 350, 400 cid.


Bolts or Parts Lube or Sealer Torque to: 7/16 Main Caps (2 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs. 7/16 Inner Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs. 7/16 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs. 3/8 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 40 ft-lbs. 18436572 The firing order Small Block Chevy V8 3/8 Connecting Rod Bolt Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs. 11/32 Connecting Rod Bolt Engine Oil 35 ft-lbs. Cylinder Heads
Engine oil
(blind hole)Sealer
(water jacket)
65 ft-lbs.
Rocker Studs (screw-in) Engine Oil 50 ft-lbs. Oil Pump Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs. Oil Pan Engine Oil 12 ft-lbs. Cam Sprocket (upper gear) Thread Locker 20 ft-lbs. Timing Cover Engine Oil 6 ft-lbs. Intake Manifold
(Cast Iron Heads)
Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs. Valve Cover Engine Oil 3 ft-lbs. Exhaust Manifold Anti-Seize Lubricant 25 ft-lbs. Spark Plugs No Lube or Sealer 20 ft-lbs. Flex plate (Automatic)
Flywheel (Clutch)
Thread Locker 60 ft-lbs. Clutch Pressure Plate Thread Locker 35 ft-lbs. Center bolt
(Harmonic Damper)
Engine Oil 60 ft-lbs. Bell housing
(Transmission to Block)
Engine Oil
  • 25 ft-lbs.

on Jul 17, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

1 Answer

If I break the rear stud on a 318 manifold head bolt in the rear or front stud and if I drill it out and see antifreeze come out have drilled through the water jacket or is it open to the block


It is very rare to through holes to the water jacket, especially the holes of fairly important studs and bolts. It happens mostly in die cast items such as some cylinder blocks and some holes to the oily parts are through and also some to where there is air or exhaust gas on the other side.

There is no need to despair yet even if you have drilled off course or simply gone too far. There are ways around such problems if indeed it is a problem and you won't know until you have removed the manifold and taken a close look.

There are repair epoxies and putties of various types intended to reclaim such errors and there are specialist cold stitching techniques which can reclaim almost anything made of metal. For areas that must be strong and are subjected to very high temperatures I drill and tap oversize and sometimes make a double diameter stud and sometimes I plug the oversized hole with a large bolt and machinery adhesive, cut off flush and re-drill and tap the original size.
Good luck!

Feb 06, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Sheared off alternator pivot bolt while changing alternator please help!


If bolt does not thread into engine block or head
What you will need:
Penetrating oil (auto center---pepboys, advanced auto, parts plus ect)
Screw gun example (home center)
cordless drill
corded screw gun
something with a clutch
5/32 or a 1/4" self tapping hex head screw by 3/4" long
a driver for #12 hex head(I can't remember if it's 3/16", or 1/4" or 1/4" or 5/16"
1/4"90 degress offset for screw gun(usally aroung $8.00 (home center)
Channel locks or really goood pliers (home center)



This may work, and cheapest solution. Get some spray penetrating oil. Spray what's lest of bolt on both sides. Tap what is left of bolt, making sure you don't hit what's left of the threads, or causing it to peane over.
repeat this a few times.
After oil has penetrated, on sheared side start running the screw in
This is where you use the offset for the screwgun and the channel locks to hold the offset in the right position.Once the screw seats it's self, with luck, it should act like it's driving the sheered bolt deeper. Once you see more of the end of bolt comming out, stop, use channel locks to finish removing.


If this fails or bolt is in head or block
More penetrating oil
1/4" ezeout with right numbered drill bit
90 degrees drill chuck
Tap handle (for ezeout)
Center punch
1/8" drill bit

Use center punch to put a divit in center of broken bolt
Use 1'8" bit to drill pilot hole, no mre than 3/8" deep( measure from tip of bit up to 3/8" put a peice of tape around bit)
Use the numbered bit for eze out, drilling no deeper than 3/8"
Use easy out with tap handle.
Note!
do not use "auto center's bolt extractors, they are garbage. Go to an industrial suppy or industrial hardware house

Mar 08, 2013 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

1 Answer

How do I fix a block that has pulled the threads out of the hole for the head bolts. This engine is a dual overhead cam out of a 2001 cadilac


3 things you can do here;

1 You can re-tap the hole one size larger and use a larger diameter bolt or stud. If you use this solution the component being bolted down will have to have a clearance hole drilled in it to take the larger diameter bolt or stud

2 If you're dealing with stripped stud hole you can re- tap the hole one size larger and use a" stepped " stud . One end is the larger thread the rest of the stud is the original diameter and thread.

3 The best solution, particularly if your dealing with a thread in an aluminium casting, is to fit a thread insert. These are sold under a range of names e.g Helicoil, Recoil, and come as a kit made up of a tap, a quantity of thread inserts and an insertion tool. Each kit only covers one thread size.

Hope this helps

Dec 04, 2012 | Cadillac DeVille Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What is the torque suppossed to be on the motor mounts and the starter mounting bolts on a 2001 chevy malibu V6


Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs. 3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs. 7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs. motor mounts 85 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/flex plate bolts 60 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs. Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs. Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs.

Jun 10, 2012 | 2001 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

I need to change the starter


The starter on 3.5L engines is on the backside of the engine block slightly towards the drivers side.


I just changed the starter in my 2000, 3.5L, V6, Oldsmobile Intrigue. I am going from memory here but the sizes should get you fairly close. The starter is held on with 2 bolts. I used a 13mm (or maybe 11mm or 12mm) socket with a 12" extender to remove the bolts. There are 2 wires attached to the starter. I used an 8mm socket (but a deep socket, the kind of socket that is ~3" long) to remove the small wire. I used ~11mm socket (deep socket) to remove the large wire. Everything was metric. It was not an overly difficult repair. Wiggling the starter in and out of position was probably the hardest part. Remember to disconnect your battery before starting.

Mar 09, 2011 | 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue

1 Answer

NEED HELP WITH TORQUE SPECS ON 1998 CHEVROLET SURBURBAN CYLINDER HEADS 5.7


Cylinder Head Removal & Installation 5.7L Engine To Remove:
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the engine coolant.
  3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  4. Remove the upper radiator hose.
  5. Remove both heater hoses.
  6. Disconnect spark plug wires at distributor cap.
  7. Remove distributor cap.
  8. Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump.
  9. Remove the drive belt. NOTE: It is not necessary to evacuate the A/C refrigerant.
  10. Remove the A/C compressor from the mounting bracket and set it aside.
  11. Remove the wiring bracket from the rear of the cylinder head.
  12. Disconnect the accessory bracket and slide forward.
  13. Remove the upper and lower intake manifold.
  14. Remove the exhaust manifolds.
  15. Remove the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
  16. Remove the power steering pump pulley.
  17. Disconnect the electrical connector from the power steering pump.
  18. Remove nuts attaching the power steering pump to the engine.
  19. Remove power steering pump mounting bracket bolts and nut.
  20. Slide power steering pump/bracket assembly forward and remove stud.
  21. Set power steering pump/bracket assembly aside.
  22. Disconnect the wiring bracket from rear of the right cylinder head.
  23. Remove the generator.
  24. Remove the oil indicator tube bracket bolt.
  25. Remove the generator mounting bracket.
  26. Remove the sixteen cylinder head bolts.
  27. Remove cylinder heads and gaskets.
  28. Clean all sealing surfaces.
To Install:
Right Side NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).
  1. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes with a thread chaser and compressed air.
  2. Check the cylinder head locating pins for proper installation.
  3. Place a new cylinder head gasket over the engine block dowel pins.
  4. Install the cylinder head to the engine block.
  5. Apply sealant (GM P/N 12346004 or equivalent) to cylinder head bolt threads.
  6. Install the cylinder head bolts. gm-03-50-685.gif

  7. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence on the first pass.
    • Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
  8. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the long bolts (1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10 and 13) on the second pass in sequence to 75°.
  9. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the medium bolts (14 and 17) on the second pass in sequence to 65°.
  10. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the short bolts (3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15 and 16) on the second pass in sequence to 55°.
  11. Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
  12. Install the generator mounting bracket stud.
    • Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
  13. Loosely assemble the generator mounting bracket over the stud.
  14. Install all nuts and bolts finger tight.
    • Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
  15. Install the generator.
  16. Install the oil indicator tube bracket bolt.
  17. Install the exhaust manifold.
  18. Install the lower intake manifold.
  19. Install the valve rocker arm covers.
  20. Install the wiring bracket to the rear of the cylinder head.
  21. Connect the accessory bracket.
  22. Install the A/C compressor.
  23. Install the drive belt.
  24. Install the distributor cap.
  25. Connect the spark plug wires to the distributor cap.
  26. Install both heater hoses.
  27. Install the upper radiator hose.
  28. Install the air cleaner assembly.
  29. Refill the engine coolant.
  30. Connect the negative battery cable.
Left Side To Install:
NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).
NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).
  1. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes with a thread chaser and compressed air.
  2. Check the cylinder head locating pins for proper installation.
  3. Place a new cylinder head gasket over the engine block dowel pins.
  4. Install the cylinder head to the engine block.
  5. Apply sealant (GM P/N 12346004 or equivalent) to cylinder head bolt threads.
  6. Install the cylinder head bolts. gm-03-50-685.gif

  7. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence on the first pass.
    • Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
  8. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the long bolts (1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10 and 13) on the second pass in sequence to 75°.
  9. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the medium bolts (14 and 17) on the second pass in sequence to 65°.
  10. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the short bolts (3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15 and 16) on the second pass in sequence to 55°.
  11. Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
  12. Install the power steering pump mounting bracket stud.
    • Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
  13. Loosely assemble the mounting bracket over the stud.
  14. Install all nuts and bolts finger tight.
    • Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
  15. Install the power steering pump pulley.
  16. Connect the electrical connector to the power steering pump.
  17. Install the exhaust manifold.
  18. Install the lower intake manifold.
  19. Install the valve rocker arm covers.
  20. Install the wiring bracket to the rear of the cylinder head.
  21. Connect the accessory bracket.
  22. Install the A/C compressor.
  23. Install the drive belt.
  24. Install the distributor cap.
  25. Connect the spark plug wires to the distributor cap.
  26. Install both heater hoses.
  27. Install the upper radiator hose.
  28. Install the air cleaner assembly.
  29. Refill the engine coolant.
  30. Connect the negative battery cable.

Aug 31, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Broken exhaust bolt front not the one closest to frame how to fix


you will have to remove the exhaust from the head
if there is any of the stud left protruding from the head there is a tool that you can buy from your automotive spare parts dealer to remove the remaining stud
If no part of the stud is protruding you will have to drill a hole in the centre of the stud and use an easy-out to remove it, use some penetrating oil first to loosen any corrosion etc

Jul 09, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra...

1 Answer

Studs for a exhaust manifold rusted off flush with the head. I tried drilling a giude hole for easy outs but the drill bits walked off the center of the studs. The bit chewed into the head and made a hole...


If you have a welder and a torch set you can still get them out. take a 3/8 nut put it over the broken bolt and weld it together. then take the torch and heat the nut and head up. you need to heat these up to a glowing red. then start removing the bolt. go back and forth if you have to. good luck. ps if you don't have the tools remove the head and take it to a shop

Jun 18, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

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