Hey Joe, Sounds like a fuel starvation issue... the needle/seat/float that controls the flow of gas into the carburetor is probably sticking and letting a TINY amount of fuel in the carb,, running the engine burns it dry too quick and quits... takes a few minutes for it to refill, then you start it, and run it dry again,, (repeat-repeat-repeat).. sound about right?? Take it to any GOOD small engine mechanic... they can clean and set the carburetor...
this is no biggie.. just very aggravating..
Good luck! .please mark as helpful...
Hey Joe, Sounds like a fuel starvation issue... the needle/seat/float that controls the flow of gas into the carburetor is probably sticking and letting a TINY amount of fuel in the carb,, running the engine burns it dry too quick and quits... takes a few minutes for it to refill, then you start it, and run it dry again,, (repeat-repeat-repeat).. sound about right?? Take it to any GOOD small engine mechanic... they can clean and set the carburetor...
this is no biggie.. just very aggravating..
Good luck! .please mark as helpful...
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SOURCE: five second delay with pump
check the intake of the pump. It may be clogged with sludge or debris.
SOURCE: Champion Vantage 35 - mower will not keep running
More than likely the jet in the carb is somewhat clogged. Did this just happen after sitting for the winter? If so, start the mower and when it starts to die pump the primer to keep it running. Sometimes it will clean itself in a few minutes. If not, carb cleaner or take the carb bowl off and clean the jet.
Hope this helps
Kurt
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SOURCE: I have a Hobart Champion 10,000 welder generator.
measure ouput on ALL available sockets - anything?
Take cover off electric motor-generator, visually inspect windings.
Measure continuity of all stator windings (2 or 3 points usually)
Measure continuity of stator thru brushset.
If all measures ok - has to be AVR module.
There is no mistery in generator - just stator to induce and rotor to obtain voltage.
SOURCE: i have a hobart handler 135 motor stops feeding
Take the drive motor off and blow out dust, chips, wire pieces, etc. and then rinse out with contact cleaner, blow dry, re-install. Had to do this every so often with mine. Hope that helps.
SOURCE: i change the timing belt
There should be a mark on the cam gear(s) as well as the lower gear driven by the crank indicating TDC(top dead center), with transmission in neutral use a socket wrench with some leverage to turn the crankshaft pulley in the same direction it would turn while running. once the crank is at TDC the cam gears need to align to thier markings, likley at 12 o'clock position. if there is no marks on the bottom gear, unbent a wire coat hanger and remove the spark plug from #1 cylinder and loosly drop the hanger in, make sure nothing falls into the cylinder or any binding occurs in the cylinder. while rotating the crank you can see the wire go up and down as the piston moves, lift the wire a bit every so often to avoid it binding and be sure wire is straight and long enough to always stick up out of the cylinder enough to grab it. when its at its highest point of the compression stroke and just about to go down again, your at TDC and check the cam gear alignment. you should be able to tell the compression stoke from the exhast stroke because you must have it pretty close to start at all, if the cam gear alignment is off by half a rotation, then its the exaust stroke and keep turning. dual cams can be tricky since retentioning the belt will move at least one the gears you just aligned, but you can see how much they move and compensate so once the belt is tight everything is aligned.
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