Question about Maytag Washing Machines
I replaced the fill valve (hot-cold-supply cut off) because it was leaking in the drum when off. It does not over fill so level control is not a suspect. What's wrong that it chugs creating water hammer with very slow flow? Some additional information is that while making the chugging sound that is creating water hammer with slow fill when the machine gets at a certain (random) fill point the water hammering lessens and sometimes stops and fills normally. Since the inlet valve set is brand new ($75) it appears the problem might be in the controls. However if it's the level control why does it always fill to the correct level? I just shut off the water supply then turned on a wash cycle to release the pressure off the hoses for checking on the faucet washer and was hearing the valve solenoid clicking off and on. This appears to be a control problem and not anything mechanical.
Check the water flow coming out of your water valves on the wall. Once in awhile a faucet washer comes loose in the valve causing "flutter". Check the flow through the hoses before they get to the washer.
Posted on Sep 24, 2017
Testimonial: "After searching for a solution to the erratic and very slow filling cycle on my washer and not finding what was causing the fill valve to cycle in such a erratic way I requested assistance getting Jaime M. Only an experienced technician like Jaime would have spotted the problem to be a control float located on the drum that gives the signal to the fill control to be the problem. A little CLR to remove the calcium should do the trick and free up the stuck float. After hearing my description of my troubleshooting efforts he diagnosed the problem within seconds. Kudos to Jaime for his insight and experience."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: water filling
Before you replace the water valve itself, take the hot water hose off and inspect the screen at the valve inlet. There could be a lot of grit restricting it. If the screen is clear, than I would be in agreement with you that it is the valve itslef..hope this helps you.
Posted on Apr 26, 2006
tidalwave If the water continues to flow even when the washer timer and the power to the washer are off then you are right and the water inlet valve has to be replaced. If it does it only when the washer is on then it could be different problems. In that case the first thing you have to check is the water level switch. This is the device which controls the water level. Remove the power first.Open the control panel and you will see the switch on the left side. There is the clear plastic hose connected to the switch. Make sure the hose is not loose. This is one of the most common cause of overflow. If it got loose, drain out all water from the washer before you reconnect the hose. If this is not the issue then you have to check the continuity across the water level switch therminals. When there is no water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 12 (gray and orange wires). Whet the tub has filled up with water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 14 (gray and light blue wires). If the continuity is wrong replace the water level switch. If you are going to do it, make sure there is no water in the tub before you will remove the clear plastic hose from the old switch. Good luck. Gendos. post back...
Posted on Jul 08, 2007
Hey there. I've had the same problem recently. It would fill slowly, and then after a while, it wouldn't fill at all. So I got some a new valve. it cost about $NZ30 delivered. You'll need one each for hot and cold. You can get parts from http://www.primedistributors.co.nz/. I think the part you need is 426142. you can check an image of it on the website. Good luck.
Posted on Aug 26, 2007
You can really thank the government for this- your washer has a 75/25 split valve (75 cold 25 hot--- so warm is mostly cold) which they mandated for all standard top load machines. In 2010 they are banning manufacting of all standard top loaders. The thermistor is because your machine has a ATC (automatic temperature control) system. It has a computer which monitors water temp for better laundry care. You could possibly have a repairman (this wouldnt be covered under warrany) try to retrofit a older service valve in your machine.
Posted on Jan 14, 2008
SOURCE: Kitchenaid Top Loader leaks
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
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