I have a wine cooler MH54dz, the digital controller is not illuminated. How can I tell if the digital control board is good or bad vs the compressor control board?

FX101L Replaces FX-102 PCB121110K1 wine cooler control board for 10.5V output.

To replace the B03F4666 Temperature Control board for the AW-320ED wine cooler, follow these steps: Unplug the wine cooler and locate the control board inside the wine cooler. Remove the screws or connectors that secure the old control board in place. Disconnect the wires from the old control board. Connect the wires to the new control board in the same configuration as the old control board. Secure the new control board in place with screws or connectors. Plug in the wine cooler and test the temperature control to ensure it is working properly; https://kitchencol.com/edgestar-wine-cooler-lights-blinking/ If the instruction manual you received is not accurate, you can try finding a video tutorial online or reaching out to the manufacturer for clarification on the replacement process.

Question edited for clarity, 'Wine' not 'whine'.

The limited warranty is clever to supply NO contact details whatsoever!

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/936239/Dihl-Wf-32bdss.html?page=7#manual

Good information and boards here

https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/how-to-repair-a-thermoelectric-wine-cooler.176296/

https://picclick.co.uk/Replacement-Wine-Cooler-Fridge-Control-Circuit-Board-PCB-201684357570.html

Videos, Parts, or send to Board Doctor for repair. Alibaba says they swell them.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wine+cooler+circuit+board+repair

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is their power to outlet --to unit

The most likely cause is that you have a bad temperature sensor. Some wine coolers will display the set temperature, not actual temperature so although you set it for 58°, the temperature inside is much colder. If the temperature sensor is bad, then it's likely sending a signal to the control board that says it like 99° so the wine cooler is always trying to cool down to 58°. If you have an independent thermometer, put it in the wine cooler and see what it reads.

FYI, bad temperature sensor are pretty common in wine coolers. It's a design flaw that most manufacturers are just recently correcting.

Check for corrosion on the temp probe. The digital displays use thermistors to determine the temp so if the probe has dust on it it will change the resistance reading and tell the cooler that it is warmer than it is. All you can do is clean the probe, and if that doesn't solve the problem then the control or probe are faulty as they are usually one piece you will have to change it out. If you are mechanically inclined you can change out the temp control with an a19 abc24c remote bulb temp control from Johnson controls and that will last of the rest of your life.

Mr. Lindquist: We are experiencing essentially the same problem. Have tried replacing the temperature control board without change. Would be interested to know if you get a solution.

First lets find out why you want to change the thermostat.

• The 112G has a control board & temp sensor
  

If you are having problems try replacing the sensor first then the control board.
Link to the parts breakdown page:
http://service.haieramerica.com/Models.aspx?CID=226#
The sensor is $4.76 & the control board is $26.81.
good luck,
dan

The error is likely caused by a bad temperature sensor. The control board may still be Okay.
Replacing both of them is recommended.

Check this link for parts: http://www.partstore.com/Model/HAIER+AMERICA+TRADING/Haier/BC112G.aspx

If I read your serial number correctly, your 3.0 cuft Wine Cooler, was built 01-25-2001...there seems to be a digit missing. Your unit should have the SSAC control system which consists of three parts: The control board, the potentiometer and the thermistor. To verify this, you will need to pull your unit out so you can access the rear panel. Remove the bottom rear panel. Near the compressor you should find a 2-inch square control board that has 7 terminals and 4 small switches labeled 1-2-4-8. With the unit inplugged, disconnect the red wire from terminal #3 and the black wire from terminal #2 and connect them together. Plug the unit in. it should run continously. If it does run, then one or more of those three components is bad. If you have a multi-meter you can determine which one or you can order the set from the factory at 800-223-3900...part number 42246442.


Comment back if it does not run, or if there is no black control module or if you desire to test the individual components and I'll provide further assistance. - Subdriver