Question about Dometic RM2620 Refrigerator

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Dometic RM7291L not effectively cooling on 240V but fine on gas

It is colder than ambient temp when on 240V but not cold enough to chill at all. Fine on gas

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  • kate_a_scott Jul 28, 2009

    How do you check this?

  • StanStihl May 11, 2010

    Have you checked to make sure the condenser and evaporator fans are both running?

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These are ammonia fridges .no fans. it has a heating element unplug from the circuit board also check board fuses first. ohm the element sounds like it has gone bad.if it on 0 ohms replace it and that will fix it

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

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My rv has dometic rm2811 model refridgerator i am missing inner door shelving and condensation tank where can i order these parts

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

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On the back of the unit, at the bottom, there should be a panel that is removable. Inside should be a fan, the condenser coil, and the compressor. The fan has to be constantly blowing air over the condenser coil, to dissipate the heat (which it is essentially being removed from the refrigerator by the compressor)

When the entire fridge stops cooling, one of three things have happened. The fan isn't removing the heat from the coil, or the compressor isn't compressing the freon, or the freon has somehow leaked out of the system. If it is the fan, you have an easy do it yourself repair. If it is the compressor or the freon, you will probably (but not necessarily) need a professional.

Inside the fridge, there is a coil that is cold instead of hot. A fan must continually blow over that one too, to circulate the air over the cold coils. The fan usually only works when the doors are closed, so be sure to have the door switch pressed to "shut" when checking it.

Check those and post back. And, I know... it really is Dometic.


If the problem is the first one,

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Temp is a relative thing, factors involved now include gas mileage, etc.

Method to know is below, but meanwhile, understand that cold is not all of where its at, with ac, the removal of moisture is actually more comfortable than cold itself...on the human body...

So, is your system doing what it should, Need 4 things measured, Temp in front of condencer, low pressure, high pressure, and temp at middle or closest vent...

Refrigeration works like water, meaning it is predictable. At less than 32 ice, or solid, warmer to 212, liquid, and higher it becomes a vapor. (This is in absence of altitude and pressure or other influences, you get what I mean.)

Your refrigerant will be compressed to a liquid, gets very hot, and goes out front to the condencer, througe a dryer, then to an expansion valve. It is a liquid at the expansion valve due to the pressure exerted from the compressor.

The expansion valve releases the liquid into a much lower environment, and the liquid turns into a gas, and becomes very cold.... The environment is the equivalent of a heater core.

SO, if you make enough pressure at a given ambient temprature, you WILL make a liquid. and IF you have a low enough area after the expansion valve, the ref. WILL become a vapor. That is all that refrigeration can do, period.

After that it becomes a matter of system capacity....Fuel mileage demands erroded this point....

You need to be sure that you are not introducing any heat into the system, be sure that your heater core is not warm, or you have a physics matter...

Also, if it is really hot outside, exactly how much do you think you can drop THAT temprature, in one or two inches of the evaporator....? Just not a ton. This is what recirculate helps with, so at least eventually, you are cooling already cooled air, and that allows the rig to cool down faster...

I hope this makes sense to you, long story short, everything could be functioning absolutely correctly, and you have the symptoms you describe...

Doc

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Refrigerator trouble shooting


Condensation only ever happens if the door is left open for a long period. - The warm ambient air condenses on anything cold - like the food in there.

Because of convection, the door need only be open 1/4" to be affected. Quite often a bag pushes the door open a little.

Check all door seals for splits - clean them.
Make sure nothing is touching the back cooling plate, and it should be fine from there.

Hope this helps.

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