I am running Powermate Pulse1800EX generator Model#PM0431800. Rated 15 Amp. I have 10Amp load on circuit, power goes off every 60 sec. comes back on after 30 sec. Push to reset braker does not trip

yes
the adjustment is by the rpm setting on the governor spring
thee is a nut that you adjust the spring tension with and lower the rpms and watch the voltage gauge until you get the desired voltage
if the load is going to be constant but is well within the rated capacity( example 2kva of a 6.5 kva set) of the gen set then the variation when the load comes on will be less than 5 volts
however if the power required is close to the max capacity of the gen set ( example 4.5kva of a rated 5 kva set) , then turn the unit on and adjust the rpms up to the required voltage required
remember that an advertised kva is not the rated kva
rated kva is what the gen set will produce all day and is normally around 1kva less than advertised kva
so if you have a 6.5 kva gen set ,it will handle current peaks to 6.5 kva but will burn out if required to run long time at that load
if the gen set is 1000 watts then rated watts will be less ( 750-800) for long time use

If you have (90) 50w lamps = 4500 watts total. Assuming a 120/240 panel, if you put 1/2 on one "side" of the panel and the other 1/2 on the other "side" of the panel, that would be 2250 watts on each half. The generator should be rated *at least* 125% of the load; 4500w x 1.25 = 5625W. Using a 4500W generator on this load will cause it to overheat and shorten its life as it is running at 100% of capacity all the time..

One half of the panel is 120V to neutral, and the other is 120V to neutral - or 240V between both circuit breaker terminals. Ohms law for DC circuits and purely resistive AC circuits says Volts x Amps = Watts; or Watts / Volts = Amps. So, 2250W / 120V = 18.75A on each pole of a 2 pole circuit breaker that feeds the sub panel. A #12 copper wire is rated for 20 amps; but as per National Electrical Code - must be de-rated to 80% of rating which means it is good up to 16 amps maximum. A #10 copper wire is rated for 30 amps, but it too must be derated to 80%, making it good for 24 amps maximum. So, if you are going to feed a sub panel supplying (90) 50watt lamps, you will need to run a #10/3 copper cable from a two pole 30 amp circuit breaker at the generator to a 120/240 volt "main lug only" sub panel rated for at least 30 amps.

Divide your load evenly across the sub panel - (4) 15 amps circuits via (2) two pole 15 amp circuit breakers on each "side" of the panel if you run (2) 14/3 cables out to the lights - or (4) single pole 15 amp circuit breakers if you run (4) 14/2 cables out to the lights. No circuit breaker terminal should have more than 23 lamps that means you have (2) w/ 22 lamps and (2) with 23 lamps. The circuit w/ 23 lamps will draw 23 lamps x 50w = 1150W. 1150W / 120V = 9.6A. The 22 lamp load will be 22 x 50w = 1100W. 110W / 120V = 9.2A. Which is well within the 12A maximum allowed (after derating as required by code) by a #14 copper wire rated for 15A.

Good luck!

This generator is less than ideal to use as a home unit. see www.advanced-power-technologies.com and look at residential videos. Basically the voltage is governed by a capacitor on your unit, and ouput is directly propertional to speed. Also the engine is mechanically governered versus an electronic system. This is a common mistake using portables to power home equipment. You will damage your home digital equipment, do not use recommended

This should be changed asap . I normally run 16amp circuit breaker on its on circuit coming from the fuse box.

You need this air con running of its own circuit .
Is it just going into a 10amp power point? if so changing the end socket will not help

Idle control comes into play when there is no power draw forcing the engine to idle with an electro magent. If you feel that the electro magnet is interfering with governor, temp remove the wire to the solenoid. Usually the idle control will not effect how the engine /gen output power. An overloaded condition will cause the engine the go the full throttle as the internal governor of the engine will try to maintain 3600 rpm. Overloaded condition will greatly shorten the life of the generator/engine. Try to use only about 80 % of rated power. Large motors can draw three times running amps. A compressor using 12 to 18 amps to run can draw over 40 amps to start.
If your generator could handle the load in the past, check the engine for loss of power, or the generator for faulty voltage regulator or capacitors out of range. Easy to check. Connect digital volt meter to plug /load and look at volt reading while running with no load and loaded. Voltage should stay between 110 to 120 under load and with no load (unless goes into idle mode). Good luck

Actually, without a load being connected, this voltage is within specifications. As you connect loads, the engine slows down, voltage will drop as well.

If your meter has the ability, the frequency of the generator with no load plugged in should be 65 or so (preferably 63, but hard to keep it there with mechanical governor).

If you do find that your voltage is too high, with a load plugged in, you are able to reduce it slightly by adjusting the governor ever so slightly towards a lower RPM. 60 RPM = 1 Hz, and a few volts difference.

The best way to adjust your generator is to plug in a load that is half the rated wattage of the generator. Then make your adjustments, keep the frequency just a hair above 60 so that additional loads won't cause it to drop too far.

For some reason people think that the oil goes bad in 2 weeks because it is a small engine, but if you compare 3,000 miles on your car to hours, you would never change the oil in the generator. I don't think I have changed my lawn tractor oil in 15 years, and it is still clear, never broke down, because in 15 years, I've probably run it, 150 hours? It's about due. I hope this helps.

to sort out you problem i would take the carburtor apart and give it a good clean especially the main jet i would also replace the spark plug just to rule that out it could be a weak mixture causing your problem as you increase the demand for power the throttle will open drawing in mre air & fuel if the fuelis limited due to dirt this could be the cause.
as a quick test run the compressor and close the choke (cold start device) as that will cause more fuel to air and see what happens it isnt guaranteed to work but might give an indication.

Your generator should run a power tool rated at 10 amps. The 15 amps you mentioned for the PM1750 is for the DC rating. The AC rating is 11.6 amps.

I don't believe you have a problem with running your unit out in cold weather, it just does't make any since. There have to be a problem with the engine. If your unit is new or has been used very little, it is not broke in and has a to much blow-by. If this is the case you will find oil in your air clean and/or muffler. To fix it problem you need to change your oil and replace it with a organic oil which means not synthetic. Run your unit under 1/4 load for 15 minutes in your case about 15 amp at 120vac. This step it up to 30 amps at 120vac of 15 minutes then 45 amps for 15 min. Then about 60 amps for a good hour. After that step the unit back down to 45,30,and 15amps to allow the engine to cool-down properly. If you load your unit with 240vac instead of 120vac just divide the amps by two giving you 7.5, 15, 22.5, and 30amps. This should break your engine in. If you are still leaking/pushing out oil you more than likely have a bad seal, gasket, or something broken in you engine internally.