After replacing the control plate: the mixer comes on only while the speed control is in Off position. The engine doesn't work in any other speed setting i.e. stir to 10. With the control plate's top screws turned completely clockwise, Off is truly Off. A half turn counterclockwise is where Off become On. Doing several full turns counterclockwise does not particularly alter that. Speeds 1-10 continue to do nothing regardless of far left/right they're turned. Turning the bottom screw also does nothing. One more clue: the engine is high pitched, as if cranked all the way up to 10. I've checked & re-checked that all of the wires are plugged in to the control plate correctly as marked.
The starting position for those top speed control plate screws with the lock nuts it 8 full turns in when you fit the plate. Correct adjustment begins in or out from that point. The bottom screw should have been left where it was to start with as that is for adjusting the start position so that when the lever closes the switch contacts to start the mixer the plate only starts moving when the lever moves to the second click. Try and get the bottom one roughly right and then work on the top ones. Turn it to the first click on the speed lever and then EVENLY adjust the 2 top screws to have the planetary turn 13 to 15 times per 15 seconds. Lock up the lock nuts and then check that the bottom screw is in the correct position with speed increasing a small amount as the lever slips into the second click.
SOURCE: mixer speed settings
It could be the phase control, or it could be that the governor assembly or associated spring is missing or malfunctioning.
SOURCE: won't shift speeds
ok so the set-up looks sortof like this (lets hope the formatting of this website/your computer doesn't mess it up...)
C D
/ / \ \ \/
| | ___
/\ | | <B
A
A is the rivet holding the arm to the plastic body
B is the contact with a little tab.
C is the copper arm
D is the arm's contact
there is a copper arm (C) that has a contact on one end (D). If this contact is ALWAYS open (should only be open when mixer is off) it is either bent (carefully reform) or has come loose at the rivet marked A. On mine, the rivet at postn. A had come loose, i simply rotated it so that the contacts touched and super-glued the copper to the plastic (which should be rivited).
Since the copper was not discolored, I knew that the temps should not be too high for the super glue to handle (not in my opinion anyway).
SOURCE: kitchenaid mixer speed
I would recommend that you first check the Hall Effect sensor
which determines the mixer’s speed. I had this exact problem and I
actually went out and bought another Hall sensor for about $13. I
replaced the original sensor and made sure that the connection between the
sensor and control board was nice and snug. My mixer worked as good as new! But
I was curious to know if my original sensor was defective, so I put it back in
mixer and again made sure all of the connections were snug and tight. Guess what?
My original sensor also made my mixer work! There was nothing wrong
with the original Hall Effect sensor except that the connection between the control
board and sensor was not tight--unfortunately I didn't check the connection
before I decided to buy another sensor. My guess is that the connection between
the control board and the sensor probably loosens or comes undone over time
from use and vibrations. To fix your problem:
1. Download the mixer
parts and diagrams from the Kitchenaid website to see
what the Hall Effect sensor looks like. BTW the part number is 9703312.
2. You'll need a phillips head screwdriver to open up the
mixer gear case cover.
3. Make sure that the connection between the control board
and sensor is absolutely tight and snug.
4. Also, make sure that the orientation of the sensor is
correct. It's difficult to tell which
way the sensor should be connected because the control board has three prongs
and the sensor can attach facing up or down. After you've made the connection,
run the mixer. If it still doesn't work, disconnect the sensor, reconnect it
with the prongs facing the opposite direction and try it again. I
actually found the right sensor orientation through a little trial and error.
But by going through this trial and error, I also had my Eureka moment when I realized that the
original sensor probably would also work if it were reconnected with correct
orientation.
5. This whole process probably takes about 10-15 minutes
to perform.
6. Finally, use your common sense
and make sure to unplug the mixer before checking, connecting or disconnecting
anything.
I would recommend that you first check the Hall effect sensor which determines the speed. I had this exact problem (but mine occurred with a 600 professional model) and I actually went out and bought another Hall sensor for about $13. I replaced the original sensor and made sure that the connection between the sensor and control board was nice and snug. My blender worked as good as new! But I was curious to know if my original sensor was defective so I put it back in mixer and again made sure all of the connections were tight. Guess what? My original sensor also made my mixer work! There was nothing wrong with my original Hall effect sensor except the connection between the control board and sensor was not adequate--unfortunately I didn't check the connections before I decided to buy another one. My guess is that the connection between the control board and the sensor probably loosens or comes undone over time from use and vibrations.
1. Download the mixer parts and diagrams from the Kitchenaid website to see what the Hall effect sensor looks like. 2. You'll need a phillips head screwdriver to open up the mixer. 3. Make sure that the connection between the control board and sensor is absolutely tight and snug. 4. Also, make sure that the orientation of the sensor connection between the control board and sensor is correct. it's hard to know which way the sensor should be connected because the control board has three prongs and the sensor can attach facing up or facing down. If, after you've made the connections, the mixer still doesn't work. Disconnect the sensor and reconnect it with the prongs facing the opposite direction and try it. I actually found the right orientation through trial and error. By going through this trial and error, I also had my Eureka moment when I realized that the original sensor probably would also work it were reconnected with correct orientation. 5. This whole process probably takes less than 10-15 minutes to perform.
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